Kilgore47

I have seen carburetors a lot worse than that. The 47 P15 had a glass bowl at the pump and at the carb when I got it. I removed the glass bowl at the carb and replaced it with a metal filter. Modern filters do a better job at catching the fine sediment.

Take your time with the radio. Get your truck fixed and then we can figure out the radio.

Made an order with AB recently and requested a new copy of the catalog while talking to them. They don't do that anymore. Web page only. For me their web page isn't the easiest to navigate. You can narrow your search to the model you are looking for and that makes it easier. I was looking for parts from different years to make my project work and you have to open each item on the web page to see what years it's for. Couldn't find my copy at the time. AB was helpful on the call but it took more time to figure it out. My point is don't get rid of your old AB catalog. And if you don't want your old copy please offer it to someone here. I found my old copy later so I'm good now.

If you put a free sign on it no one will take it. Put a 5 dollar tag on it and someone will steal it in no time. Your problem will be gone. If you have a lawn mower you could use the gas in that. It will not care if there is a little oil in the gas.

Yep - that's the secrete. Run it dry. When it dies pull the choke and start it again to get that last few seconds of run time out of the carb. Growing up we always ran the gas out of the boat motors when done. Learned that one the hard way.

The float may be leaking. Take it out and check if there is liquid inside it. Shake it and listen. Those old brass floats can be repaired.

I have Stabil in the shop but I wonder how long that will make the gas last. The Jeep and the 47 only get driven about 300 miles a year each. Fifteen or twenty dollars each a year. Not enough to worry about. Got the Jeep 10 years ago and have only put about 3000 miles on it. I used ethanol gas for many years with Stabil and then a new station opened close by selling ethanol free so I made the switch. The Jeep - well it's old and wore out and I can't really tell the difference with the ethanol free but the 47 P15 definitely runs better with ethanol free.

Good news. The power just came back on. 4 days earlier than they thought it would be back on. A big thanks to all the people that were out here working 24 hours a day to get that done. Bad news is that the only fuel I could find this morning was corn gas. I normally use ethanol-free fuel for the 47 Plymouth the old Jeep the lawn mower and the generator. But I had to take what I could get. There was only one place with power this morning and they were running on generators. I'll use it up in the daily driver

Last Thursday night we had a strong storm blow through and it knocked out the power. It didn't just knock out the power - the entire town is out. The town north of us and the town south of us. They're telling us it could be another four or five days before the power is back on. The storm destroyed a transformer station South of town. Around us lines are twisted and poles are down. For many years friends have given me a hard time for having three generators. They're using those generators now. The one I have is running the refrigerator, several fans, a couple of lights and a small AC. The 6000 watt generator I bought 15 years ago is pulling the load with no problem. It has a 5 gallon tank and runs for almost 12 hours. Kind of expensive to run but well worth it. No damage to the property. Just a lot of limbs down.

When I was young I was told that a dollar bill could be used for that. But it was rare for me to have paper money and pocket change didn't work.

After two months of working on the P15 I finally got everything pack together and it's time for a drive. Not two months worth of work - I take my time and only work on it when I want to. That keeps it fun. Anyway - Started the car to let it warm up while I was rolling down the windows, rolling up the shop door and checking to make sure nothing was in the way. The engine stumbled a couple of times so I jumped in the car to check the choke setting. Everything was fine and then it died. That's not unusual for one of these old cars when they are cold. But it didn't start back up. Tried a dash of starting fluid to see if there was any spark and nothing happened. Maybe the ignition switch finally gave out - so I got the spare key out of the tool box in the trunk (18 inch wire with alligator clips on both ends). Still no spark. So I pulled the distributor. The last time I had the distributor out to adjust the points I put a tiny bit of dielectric grease on the distributor cam to keep the points contact to the cam from wearing too fast like it had been doing. Just a tiny bit. Which was a tiny bit too much because that grease got on the points contact and kept it from firing. All fixed now and the car is running good in time for the cruise in this coming weekend. All this to say that I have added a new item to the tool box in the trunk. A can of electrical contact cleaner. Next time this happens I should be able to pull the cap and spray the points clean. Give it a little time to dry and then be back on the road. I can fix that - But it may take more than one try

I just ordered one of these tanks for the P15. Last time I was under the car I noticed small leaks on the bottom of the tank. I'll replace the fuel line at the same time.

Yep - did that on the 25 dollar 54 ford in 1967. Pumped the gas a few too many times with the ignition off. Then it was off to the junk yard to find a muffler that was in better shape.

Just throwing this out there with all the other suggestions. Don't know if you have vacuum wipers but if you do then try disconnecting that hose at the engine and plugging it to see if that helps.

As soth122003 states above - the rear axel bearings are not lubricated by the oil in the dif. They require grease just like the front wheel bearings. But these rear axel bearings are often over looked during normal maintenance. When I got the P15 the rear end made an awful growling noise. The axels were pulled and the bearings fell apart when they came out. Replacing them cured the noise.

Note from experience. When you work on the rear brakes. Check and clear the vent on the axel housing. If the vent is plugged -- when the housing heats up it will force the bearing grease through the seals and on to your new shoes and ruin them.

And now this discussion is about spinach

Take the inspection plate off under the bell housing. You can get to the fly wheel from there. But holding pressure on the slack side of the belt has always worked for me.

Suggest that while you have the head liner out run new wires. Include a couple of extra wires in case you want to add back up lights or a back up camera or turn signals latter.

Re wiring one of these cars isn't as hard as you think. I used a standard 6 volt wiring harness. Came complete with a fuse block and set up for turn signals. Each wire was labeled every 6 inches with what it was for. "Front left head light low beam" "back right stop light" etc. Not original cloth covered wires and it was a one size fits most kit. That required trimming and lots of soldering. Tedious but not hard. My wires looked worse than yours when I started. Had to convert the front running lights and tail lights to double pig tails for the turn signals. Use the same fixtures and just switch out the pig tails. Everything worked the first time I powered it up. Thanks to the labeling and taking my time and double checking everything.

At 13000 miles your engine probably needs a valve adjustment. When I got the P15 the PO said the rebuilt engine had about 10000 miles on it. Sounded like a sewing machine. It would idle fine for 30 to 45 seconds and then start loping. Tap the gas and it would idle fine again for a little bit. Adjusted the valves and now it idles good. Lots of good suggestions here and it could be any of them. In a previous post someone suggested fixing one thing at a time. If you fix several things at once and the problem goes away - you won't know which one caused the problem. Just keep going and you'll figure it out. BTW my engine has about 90 pounds per cylinder also.

A few weeks back I finally got brave enough to begin the process of replacing the P15 windshield. I already had the gasket. I went the economy route and got the multiple piece set. After removing the old glass I took them to the local glass company to use as a template and they cut new glass for me for $140. When I started this I figured there was a 50% chance that I would break one of the new pieces of glass because of my lack of experience. Got both pieces installed and ended up cracking the drivers side while trying to install the center rubber. My neighbor was helping me and he used to work for the glass company. He took one of the old pieces in the next day and they cut a new one for $30. Good company. So now I have a one piece gasket on order and I hope that will be easier to install. The one piece gaskets are very expensive. Ordered form Bob's classic auto glass and he gave me a discount. Now I have the multiple piece gasket left over and I will never need it. If anyone wants it just let me know and I will send it to you. No charge.

I tried to ignore it but I just couldn't

Shouldn't the ignition switch be between the battery and the coil - not the coil and distributor.

If that shock mount was mine I would weld it up and then mount it my drill press and use a file to get it back to about the right diameter. Should be a snug fit when you replace the shock. Or you could take it to a machine shop and have them turn it back down. I admit that this fix is a little shade tree but my grandad taught me to fix things when possible instead of replacing them. Sometimes it takes longer and it's more work to do it my way - But I can't help it - I like to fix stuff.