Kilgore47

I got 10 bags of mulch in the 47 Plymouth. 8 in the trunk and 2 in the passenger front seat. There were about 6 people helping load the bags. They all wanted to check out the car. So much fun to have an old Mopar. Like your car the picture makes it look much nicer than it is.

Looks like the banana trees are coming back. After a low of -5 one morning in February I wasn't sure they would make it. Not supposed to get that cold here. Guess the foot of snow on the ground helped insulate them from the worst of it. Yesterday the dog and a couple of the chickens helped me clean them up. I have to add the cage to keep the chickens from eating the new growth.

When you first start the car the bottom of the carburetor gets cold and collects condensation. This condensation could collect the oil mist coming from the crank case vent.

When I was a kid we would take them apart, clean everything and use Vaseline to help the paddle seal. That's what dad and granddad used so that's what I did. Not sure how long that would last. Remember doing that on two cars. One of them was free and the other one cost 25 dollars. Neither car lasted very long.

Today is my birthday and I got a the first covid19 shot. Great birthday present. Next one in 20 days. Thought I would be there for hours. Les that an hour and I was back in my car. Many thanks to all the people in Longview Texas that made this work so well.

Has anyone tried to re shape this material with a heat gun. That would look good on the front floors.

Thanks for the info about the oiling hole. When I got the 47 P15 the cable was disconnected and the speedometer was stuck on 100 mph. I tried connecting the cable and it made a lot of noise and the needle bounced around. Disconnected it again. Plan to remove the speedometer one day and try to fix it. I use an app on my phone for now that uses GPS to show speed and distance traveled. I'll try the oiling hole and see what happens.

If your problem is a vacuum leak - One source could be the vacuum advance module. The diaphragm can fail over time. The one on my P15 failed. I disconnected the vacuum advance tubing at the base of the carb and plugged it as a temporary fix to get the engine to run and idle.

You could use the the rear fitting from an old MC for the top of the MC. They are the same size. The rear fitting has two taps. One for the front brakes and one for the rear brakes. It does not have a vent. Plug one of the taps. You can then run a line from the other tap up to a reservoir. The local auto parts stores have brake lines that will fit these taps and they come in varying lengths. This can be permanently installed. I have not done this yet but plan to. Just have to find a reservoir that will work.

It got down to -5 here is east Texas yesterday. Almost a foot of snow Monday and more coming today. It will be below freezing for a week. Not sure the bananas will make it through this.

I have had the same problem a few times. Just thought it was my old computer. Nine year old Dell laptop - Windows 10 - Microsoft Edge. When I would re boot the machine everything would work again. I was being lazy and not re booting daily. Since I started re booting every day I have not had the problem. BTW Thanks for this site

You can also check the vacuum advance module. The diaphragm in mine was shot and that created an air leak at the carb. I plugged the connection at the carb until I got a new one. Then I had to rebuild the distributor because the vacuum advance in it was stuck. It's amazing how many things on these old cars can be taken apart, cleaned and put back together. The vacuum advance module was not one that I could take apart and fix.

I have replaced the bearings and seals on the rear axles of my 1947 P15. Now it's time to check the end play. These dial indicators belonged to my granddad. He was a mechanic and used these to work on these old cars when they were new. I got them in the 80's and have used them many times. The face is old and yellow but they work.

It doesn't work that well in the wind. Too heavy I guess. I rattle it every time I walk by

I picked up these old tools at the pawn shop. 5 to 10 cents each. Had this idea for years and finally did it. Made a wind chime out of old tools.

I planted these banana trees as an ornamentals a few years back. Didn't expect them to do this well but this year they got huge. Even got a small batch of bananas. The first freeze shut them down a few days ago. I will cut them back and leave the trunks three or four feet tall for the winter. Next spring they will come back.

The 47 P15 is back in the air again. Going to replace the brake lines this time. When I took the front drivers side tire off I noticed something that looked like a clip. When I moved it I half expected something to release. Nothing moved so I looked closer. It's a spare key. Looks like it could be the original key. Held in place with a thumb nut. I'm going to leave it there.

One more thing to check. I have a 1947 P15 and it had similar symptoms. Checked all of the things mentioned above and everything was good. Finally tracked it down to a bad ground connection on the block. Cleaned the connection and went back with a new cable. Starts good now.

I am finally getting a 1947 P15 2 door back into running condition. Could use a few parts. Is the chassis still rolling. Or can it be pulled on to a trailer. I live in Kilgore. These are a few things I could use. You can email me at wesmx5@gmail.com or reply to this. Thanks Generator Wheels Cables Intake manifold Exhaust

I have an air chisel and I didn't think of that. Would have been a much cleaner job. Grinding cast iron makes a really big mess. I spent the fifth day cleaning up the shop and cleaning the block so it's ready to install the new parts when they get here. Hope they get here soon.

I had to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds on my 1947 P15 a few days ago. It was a challenge. The stud at #9 would not let go. The nut came off - the stud was stuck in the manifold. We heated, oiled and banged for two days. I had removed the inner wheel well for access on the second day. Gives great access to the side of the engine. On the third day I went on line and found an exhaust manifold and ordered it. On the fourth day I used a grinder and removed the old exhaust manifold piece by piece. The stud at #9 finally broke off in the block and everything came apart. It was easy to get to and drill out the broken stud with the inner wheel well removed. Good Luck