Sam Buchanan

Yep...for us, uhhh, mature guys our cars are built out of blood, sweat, and......pain! Congratulations on a successful delivery, now the work can begin.

Two bulbs, one on each side of the speedometer.

And....I'm sure you put the drums on the correct sides..... Looking good!

The engine instruments in my P15 have been fairly well lit but the speedo was extremely dark. The wiring diagram in the service manual shows a "speedometer light" but the only dash lights (beside key and high-beam lights) in my car are two bulbs located near the engine gauges. I checked and someone had already installed #63 bulbs which are brighter than the #51 bulbs normally installed. The following post from a thread last year got my attention: http://p15-d24.com/topic/47422-bright-dash-lights/?tab=comments#comment-503267 This poster found some specialty 6v bulbs that were designed for use in microscopes. They are 7 candle-power instead of the 63"s 3 candle-power. I decided to try them and the results are impressive. Not only is the speedo very visible but I actually found the feature where the speedo numbers change colors! Please excuse the blurry photo made while underway: Here is where I bought the bulbs: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-1946-1947-1948-extra-bright-tail-light-bulb-63-replacement-6-volt-63/161410757417?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 I really like 'em! In case someone asks....I've already hot-wired the dash light switch located at the bottom of the dash....the bulbs are getting full voltage.

Made mine from a piece of scrap steel plate (think it was 1/8"), you can see it in this photo. Use the gasket as a pattern....cut...drill...done.

You are wanting to install the chrome strips on the side of the fenders, right? I think greg g is describing a method of forming beading between fender and body. Or maybe I'm just confused....again.....

I agree. I had a bad connection at the switch for a few days and didn't catch it until after an evening drive while pulling into the shop. I now watch the ammeter to verify the brake lights are actually working. I suppose the argument could be make that if all the connections are well-maintained we shouldn't have failures.....but we are working with 70+ year-old cars.....

If it is still protected by copyright it has been violated by posting on the inter-web without permission.... But I suspect the copyright has expired.

Illustration from the service manual showing the seal in the brake backing plate:

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The five studs I needed were sourced from the local NAPA store. They only had 3/8" studs with coarse threads on both ends but they worked nicely to secure the manifolds to the crankcase. A wire brush was all that was needed to clean up the threads on the original studs that remained in place.

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Where is it cracked....can't pick it out of the photo. Ok, think I see a little corner broken off of the heat riser. Are you sure this is a problem? As long as the two manifold mating surfaces seal they will still function properly.

Perhaps you need to start the fan when you start the engine? It is much easier to keep an engine cool than recover a hot engine......

Yes, my apologies for referencing your thread...I noticed that after I posted.......

The Search function of the forum is your friend. Here is a recent thread: http://p15-d24.com/topic/50931-1949-special-deluxe-radial-tires/?tab=comments#comment-540574

Take a look at this: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1124845&jsn=3

Alternator! (running for cover.... ? )

Simple physics; at sea level water boils @ 212*F, it doesn't expand prior to boiling. "Expansion" is due to steam bubbles trapped in the water resulting from localized temps above 212*. Water at sea level pressure cannot be heated higher than 212* regardless of how much heat you throw at it, it just changes phase (steam). That is why pressurized systems will run at higher temps, the higher pressure raises the boiling point. If water is being ejected at an indicated 175*, then either the gauge is defective or there are areas within the system that have exceeded 212* which is creating steam that is pushing water out the vent.

The P15 is now back on the road and is as quiet as a new 1948! With the windows down I can't hear the engine above 40 mph. Total expenditure was less than $50 which included new gaskets, five new studs, a 3/8" drill/tap, the stud extractor, a tube of anti-seize, four bolts for the heat riser and all new nuts. The block-off plate for the heat riser came from my scrap box. Ten hours of labor working on a neat old car.......priceless.

The manual for the P15 says to not fill the radiator any more than an inch or so of the top so coolant won't slosh out the vent during a hard turn. So it looks like a non-pressure cap and a vent hose connected to the neck would give us a non-pressure system like the original. Thanks for the feedback, I'll keep this in mind if I need to replace the original radiator at some point. I like the non-pressure system because it doesn't put any stress on fittings, hoses, heater core, etc. By the way, Scott, the Plymouth runs with just a subdued hum now with the fresh exhaust gaskets! Fuel pump is almost as loud as the engine.

Is there an easy way to modify an aluminum radiator or a cap so it won't develop any pressure? Maybe install a bulkhead fitting in the top of the radiator so a vent hose can be attached? Will a non-pressure cap like we use on our old radiators fit on an aluminum radiator so the overflow can be used as a vent? Just thinking ahead in case a new radiator is ever needed on my P15.

Yep, that is a nice tool. I resorted to lower tech....a stud extractor picked up at Autozone. That thing worked great for pulling the long studs and the stubs sticking out of the intake manifold. Got the studs turning with a long breaker bar and finished them up with the ratchet. Now in the process of tapping the stud hole I drilled out and then the block will be ready for installation. Next job is the block-off plate for the exhaust manifold and modding the intake manifold.

A fairly recent thread that has some info about sill plates: http://p15-d24.com/topic/50360-p15-door-sills-revisited/?tab=comments#comment-534454

I plan to put some heat on the block around the long studs with a torch prior to attempting to back them out (bought a stud extractor). But even if they come out one short stud is broken off even with the block. I'll try welding a nut to it before resorting to drilling and tapping.