Sam Buchanan

Mr. Google says Duracell lead acid batteries are manufactuered by East Penn Manufacturing. https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/east-penn-releases-new-duracell-automotive-batteries/#:~:text=For more information contact East,for more than 40 years Company info: https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/ Berks county, PA https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/about/facilities/

https://www.ebay.com/str/howardent

I hope the leak has been resolved, if so this will be the least expensive part I've installed on the P15. ? Turns out a brand new Lincoln penny is a great fit in the countershaft recess. I buttered the recess with JB Weld, inserted the penny and sealed the outside. We'll know after the new release bearing arrives and the trans in installed if this solves the leak but I think it will. If the countershaft ever needs to be removed a hole can be drilled in the penny so a drift can be inserted to drive out the shaft.

A tire calculator that includes gear ratios (listed in the service manual) can be used to derive shift speeds at a particular rpm. Here is one I like: https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator

Just for reference, here is a capture from the service manual showing what appears to be a similar recess to what I've observed. It appears from the details in the manual that the countershaft is captured by the extension housing, hard to see how it could back out. No, I'm just going to plug the leak and call it good. I don't have any desire to disassemble or machine the transmission. I don't know if the trans has ever been rebuilt but I doubt it based on the low mileage of the car. But 74 years may have taken its toll on the close tolerances. Thank you for your comments and suggestions!

I know that sound...... The old clutch had a little shudder, was expecting the new one to be smooth.....it's not. Sigh........................

More aftermarket junk..........

There is, but the countershaft is below the bellhousing so no gasket over it. Ken, that is what I'm considering. The 2nd-3rd gear rail has a plug, and it has the same bore as the countershaft, .750". I don't know if that particular plug is available but a plug should be easy to source in that common size. The shift rail has to slide in it's bore while the countershaft is a drive fit, I guess that is why the rail has a plug and the countershaft doesn't. It is definitely the countershaft. I put the transmission on the bench, filled it properly and there is a steady flow of oil past the countershaft. The bearing retainer and its bolts are dry, the retainer was resealed two years ago. By the way, I used two small o-rings and a washer (visible in the photo) under each bolt instead of NOS seals that would probably be hard by now. Thank you for the input, please offer additional solutions if you have them.

I recently installed a new clutch in the P15, but the transmission is back out of the car to fix a leak. The new throw out bearing seemed a little rough and I could hear it when the clutch was depressed. Should a new bearing be slinging grease like this? The bearing came in the clutch kit I purchased from Bernbaum (oldmoparts.com). And....the new clutch isn't smooth in spite of the flywheel being faced. I'm wondering if there is something faulty with the pressure plate or disc or is it possible this bearing has slung some grease into the pressure plate? I've ordered a new National 1505 bearing, hopefully it will be better quality than this one.

After removing the tranny (again...) to chase down a substantial leak I found it. The countershaft at the front of the transmission is leaking so badly that fluid drips from the bottom of the tranny. I'm tired of the mess not to mention topping up with $23/quart Redline MDL (great oil by the way, stops the crunchies). Here is the leak: I assume the shaft is supposed to be a drive fit in the case but in this instance there is enough clearance to pass trans fluid because the shaft is submerged in gear oil.. You can tell by the witness line on the case that the shaft is below the bellhousing gasket. Previously I plugged this hole with fuel tank sealant but it only held for a couple of years. How do I make a long-term repair?

The better to eat the electrons! ?

The aftermarket VR I bought was DOA....but I fixed it:

McMaster-Carr has a large variety of pins, some with cotter pins and some with circlips. Washers can be used to adjust the length of a pin that is a little long. https://www.mcmaster.com/pins/clevis-pins-with-retaining-ring-groove-6/

Just to close the loop, the frame is on the bench masked and ready for paint. The trick for an easy removal from the door is to pop out the front half of the frame followed by the rear half. For some reason I couldn't get it to work the other way, maybe the vent spring wasn't clearing if it didn't come out first. Anyway....problem solved.

Thank you, that confirms what I thought I remembered, just need to figure out why it didn't want to release near the vent. We'll figure it out.

I just need to remove the frame from the door for repaint, either with the vent removed or still in place. I prefer to not disturb the rubber seal.

That’s how I remembered it but it was getting hung up around the vent. I’ll try it again, thanks for the info.

Pretty sure that is what I did the first time, I'll look for the screws at the top of the vent and give it another go. I hate forgetting how I did something earlier.......but at least I don't have to buy any new books...........

So does this mean the Castrol is working superbly by keeping more contaminants in suspension?

That is helpful, thanks! I was pretty sure there were some fasteners that had to be removed, looks like the door panel is coming off, too.

I replaced the glass in this door a couple of years ago and now want to remove the metal surround for repaint. But for the life of me I can't recall how I got the frame off the door. Something about the vent window is keeping the front half of the frame from coming out of the door. Is the vent window attached to the frame and comes out with it or does the vent need to be removed first? I have recent vent rubber and want to avoid disturbing it if possible but I think I recall a screw under the vent rubber seal. If someone can offer insight it will be appreciated!

I would buy that just to get the can! ?

"rebuilt brakes" may have meant new shoes.......

Now the question is........where did the brake fluid go?

The NOS gauges are probably going to be your only choice if you want a gauge that works properly. A fuel gauge that isn't accurate is worse than a gauge that doesn't work.? Here is an example of what is available for vintage 6v cars, but I have no idea if it is compatible with our sender. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Dynacorn-G02-Fuel-Gauge-47-49-6-Volt-Chevy,401051.html If your odometer works you can use that as a semi-gauge. Top up the tank, then calculate how many miles you can go until you get to 1/4 tank. Then top up again. That's the way I kept up with fuel in my kit car.