Sam Buchanan

No, the alternator is internally regulated, no external regulation required, the old regulator gets tossed. What you see is a 60a fuse for the alternator feed to protect the car wiring in case the alternator had an internal short to ground. Very remote chance of that happening but easy to prevent.

First time I changed transmission oil in my '48 P15 I used whatever was on the shelf at the local auto parts store, think it was GL4. Then the shift from 1st to 2nd with a cold trans got crunchy. That is when I did some homework and found the modern GL oils are too "slippery" for good syncro ops. In spite of being skeptical of "repairs in a bottle" the switch to RedLine instantly solved the shift issues, it is now smooth at all temps. Knowing the syncros are also happy is worth the extra $$$$'s to me. The diff has GL4 oil, no brass parts or syncros to worry about there.

And an even better oil than GL1 is Redline MTF or MT90. These make the syncros work the way they were intended and won't degrade them like a modern GL oil.

If you are referring to the crankshaft that ain't a possibility. The flywheel flange makes it impossible to use a Speedi-sleeve, which are only one-piece.

One drop???? I wouldn't touch that rear seal! ?

The service manual described how to do this with a vice for my P15. You need to consult the manual for your car to see if a vice can be used.

The bearing can be carefully pressed on and off with a good bench vise.

See post number six...it was written by a very astute observer..... ?

The bearing that came with a clutch kit for my P15 was junk, very noisy, rough and slung grease. I ended up reinstalling the USA branded bearing that had been in the car for an unknown number of years,it works nicely.

Absolutely! https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

It's just a matter of semantics but a "closed" heat control valve is a good thing, that allows exhaust to exit directly through the manifold. An open flapper directs exhaust up through the intake manifold. I doubt you can access the flapper through the carb port but if it is free to rotate you can wire it closed from outside the manifold. By the way, the purpose of the heat control is for atomizing fuel when cold for smoother running, not to prevent formation of ice.

Very nice image, the large B/W negative has a unique (in this day and age) quality. Nice job with the split lighting, too.

Yep, carb ice is a real thing but having the intake manifold attached to the exhaust manifold probably minimizes the problem for our flatties. But would it be more probable with aftermarket intake and exhaust manifolds? Ice is much more likely at low throttle setting than wide open due to the venturi effect and accumulation on the throttle plate. The chart below shows how ice can occur even on warm days if the humidity is high enough. I've had ice form on a small Continental on a warm day while taxiing to the runway but it has a carb that is slung below the crankcase and doesn't get much warming from the engine.

Since it is serving no function, and you can't figure out why it is there....cover it up. If it is needed later for some reason, drill another hole.

The 218 in my '48 P15 runs great at 10* BTDC. The manual suggests advancing the timing until there is a little pinging under heavy load then retarding enough to eliminate the pinging. I've never tried this so don't know how close my timing is to the 'ping setting'. But the engine is very responsive at 10* on cheap gas.

It will only install one way due to the spacing of the holes.

Just as a datapoint, steel AN fittings are commonly used on aircraft (and maybe other applications?) where there is a concern that vibration might crack an aluminum fitting. Examples are oil coolers and oil pressure ports.

I find it interesting that article was written by a Parker employee whose company is pushing the SAE fittings. Just sayin'........ I've been trusting my life to AN fittings for thirty years of building and flying my aircraft, they are certified by the FAA for use on general aviation aircraft fuel, oil, hydraulic and brake systems. I've also used them many times for automotive applications but wasn't aware some states frowned on them for automotive brakes. Alabama doesn't have safety inspections so watch your backside when you venture across our stateline....one of my AN-equipped vehicles may be about to crash into you! ?

I've used this one many times, works very nicely. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/flaringtools2.php

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Buy the Chrysler line if it fits the fitting on your gauge, cut the engine end off so the line is the correct length and flare it for the flex line.

Just to close the loop, here is my montage in a 16x20 frame. I like! I can email this file if anyone wants it, it is sized to print correctly on a Staples 18x24 poster print.

A little time in Photoshop and an 18x24 poster has been ordered from Staples.

These are awesome, thanks for sharing! What is the highest resolution scan you have? I would love to print a couple of these for my office.

The Mustang conversion would be cool, then since the front of the car is modern might as well bring the rear up-to-date with a modern disc-brake axle. Since the modern axle can handle a lot more power than the old Mopar piece, and there is now a Mustang front end on the car, it would be a shame not to drop a small-block Chevy in the hole with a modern automatic transmission. Of course the steering column needs to be replaced with a tilt unit so it looks better with the Vintage AC system and Toyota bucket seats. Now you can really utilize your 'old' Mopar! ? Or......you could just install a disc kit and enjoy your vintage driver. ? The above scenario is what we call "mission creep". It occurs when we don't establish what we really want from the car and stick with that framework. We see it all the time in the custom-built aircraft community, the basic set of avionics ends up being $70K..........and rarely gets used to its full potential. But I respect everyone's right to decide what they want to do.