Sam Buchanan

Don't think that would explain the engine restarting when primed through the carb and then running rough.

Not much reason to use straight 30W, 10W-30 is an excellent option readily available and reasonably priced. It has the same viscosity as straight 30W when hot but makes cold starts easier when it is similar to 10W. But 30W is still available, just takes a bit of effort (or place an order on Amazon).

You have a plastic fuel filter right next to the exhaust manifold......BAD IDEA!! You don't want that filter to fail and spray fuel on the manifold...... And in that regard you may be dealing with vapor lock due to fuel boiling in the line close to the manifold after the engine gets hot. Our modern ethanol-contaminated gasoline is more prone to vaporization than the older formulations. This would explain why the engine will run when primed but then run rough due to the uneven fuel delivery. An easy test would be to remove the fuel filter and insulate the line (or move it away from the manifold) and see if that makes any difference. Or maybe even better....a neoprene fuel hose that is secured so it won't be next to the manifold would probably be less apt to heat the fuel to vaporization. This is something easy to try, hope it works!

That is not at all what I said. I'm just observing the lack of consistency of some who strenuously promote certain elements of the "old school" while adopting modern tech at the same time. But I respect the prerogative of owners to operate our old cars in whatever manner they wish. My old car has an alternator, fancy transmission oil.......and bias ply tires.

Ok.......guess we ditch the 3000 mile oil change intervals, radial tires, 12v conversions and electric wipers................. ?

That must be for the name-brand air grease, I think the store brands are a little lower in N2 content. ?

Be sure you get the air grease that is 70% nitrogen.

$10 a quart is a bargain......Redline is $23 per quart. But after putting up with a crunchy first to second shift until the tranny got hot, I consider the Redline to be a bargain since it totally fixed the crunchy shift. If I hadn't spent the money on Redline I would be reminding myself of my stupid thriftiness every time I heard second gear not engage smoothly. Now I congratulate myself for spending only $46 to fix this transmission! Would GL1 have worked as well? It might have....but at this point it doesn't matter. It's a matter of perspective........

Redline MTL provides excellent service with no gear shift crunching in my manual transmission cars ('48 Plymouth, '69 VW, '74 TR6) with no concerns about corrosion of brass syncros in these transmissions. It is a little pricey but in my opinion an excellent value due to how it keeps these old trannys happy. The modern GL oil is too slippery in the my P48 and causes crunchy shifts when cold. The diff can use the modern GL oils.

One a somewhat related note, we can have a bad day if the hood release cable breaks leaving us with no easy way to release the latch. Some have used a long bar to reach up behind the grill to bump the latch enough to free the hood but this is difficult for someone in a hurry or who has never used this trick. I attached a second cable to the latch and ran it out into the fender well so I could release the hood by reaching behind the front wheel. This is an easy mod and a broken release cable will never be a concern. I got this idea after modifying my Triumph TR6....that hood is hinged on the leading edge and a broken release cable is a BAD deal with that car!

https://p15-d24.com/topic/59124-rear-axle-help/#comment-635519

There are places where budget decisions can be justified but brakes are not one of these. Spend whatever money is needed to put your brakes in tip-top condition, your lifespan might be altered by saving a few bucks...... And to address your question...in my opinion pitting in a brake cylinder is totally unacceptable.

First step is to make sure the clutch linkage is adjusted properly. Proper "play" is needed in the pedal and the over-center spring must be adjusted properly. There is a template in our Downloads section for making the tool to adjust the over-center spring. If this spring is out of spec the pedal won't function properly. https://p15-d24.com/files/file/5-overspring_toolpdf/ This entry is also in the tech tips section: "Clunky Clutch For years after I got my P15 the clutch pedal would always make a loud "clunk" when you pressed it down. Clutch operation was fine, and throwout bearing free play was on the money. Adjusting the clutch overcenter spring did nothing to get rid of the noise. Finally, while replacing a master cylinder, I tore down the pedal assembly and clutch torque shaft. The balls of the torque shaft ride on spherical shaped split bronze bushings. On one side half of a bushing was missing. The clunk was the pivot ball rattling inside the remaining bushing. NAPA had replacement bushing inserts for about a buck and I was back on the road with a smooth and quiet clutch pedal."

This was a Legal Eagle, a very light single-place. It was sort of an impulse build, I wanted to learn oxy-ace, gave me an excuse to build a fun little airplane. Below is the first page of the feature article I wrote about building my Eagle in KitPlanes magazine.

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I learned gas welding so I could build an aircraft fuselage. The oxy-ace is only used on 4130 steel since it's best the joints are normalized with slow cooling. I use MIG with argon on everything else.

The good news is the tie rod adjustments are easy to make, maybe thirty minutes if you've never done it before. The bad news is that after you see how easy it is to adjust the tie rods to center the wheel.......you will beat yourself up for driving the car for 25 years with a crooked wheel.....! ? In regard to the adjustments, if the car is driving straight now, you can center the wheel without upsetting the current alignment. Adjust each side of the car exactly one turn, then drive it to see how much improvement you made. Keep tweaking it exactly the same amount on each side until the wheel is centered and you are good to go with no strings, etc needed. Just make sure you carefully note how the threads on each tie rod run so the toe-in won't be changed.

MIG is pretty much the norm for body work since it is fast and fairly tolerant of less then perfect technique. About twenty years ago I purchased a small, 110v MIG with a small argon bottle and it is one of the most useful tools in the shop even though I had no previous welding experience. Body rust repair, bracket fabrication, exhaust repair--it seems to be more valuable as time goes on and I realize how much it can be used. My technique has improved especially after learning gas welding. I say all that to say this.......I highly recommend the hobbyist who is semi-serious about repair and wants to equip the shop to purchase a MIG welder. Don't bother with the gasless flux welder, the welder with an argon bottle yields far cleaner welds. You'll be surprised at how often you'll use it.

Hey Joe, were these on their way to needing to be replaced?? ? Yes, a linkage adjustment was needed with the new mounts......

Gearshift selector rod adjustment should be what you try first.

Yep, shift linkage adjustment……been there, done that. I had to make the adjustments after replacing the tranny mounts, that’s why I suspect yours have sagged.

Carefully read the section in your Repair Manual on linkage adjustment and follow the procedure. If engagement has been getting progressively worse the transmission mounts may be degrading......or shot.

Stop advancing the timing just before the engine pings while pulling that steep hill on the way to grandma's house.................

Your engine needs deworming!!

Excellent! We know what you are describing. ?