Sam Buchanan

Sorry, but the thermostat doesn't have anything to do with fuel vapor lock............and your car should be very happy with the 180F thermostat.

Perhaps this hit from a quick search will be useful: https://p15-d24.com/topic/51672-thermostat-modern-replacement-for-218/

Once again......we are talking past each other............... Cooper40, the OP, asked which HF stand would be more suitable for his flattie, the 1000lb model or the 2000lb model. Some offered that they thought the 1000lb stand would be adequate since the engine weighs ~700lb. Others (including myself) stated concern that stability would be marginal with the smaller stand and the 2000lb stand would be a better choice. Some have stated their good service with the larger stand. Sniper posted a thread showing him using the 2000lb stand. The stand Sniper referenced and the one Los Control showed are both HF 2000lb stands. It appears some think the smaller stand will work if care is taken and it is used on a smooth floor....and most agree the 2000lb stand is a fine choice.

That is the 2000lb version.

If it looks like this it is early '49. If not, it is later version.

To follow up on my post, I have a stand that is similar to the HF 1000lb unit, and have had a 3.4 Chevy V-6, a four cylinder Continental aircraft engine, and some VW engines on the stand. It held all them but I always felt it was closer to its safety margin than I liked, especially if the stand needed to be moved! I used a prop under the Chevy V-6 just to make me feel a little better. I would not hang one of our flatheads on it..... This is a major shop safety issue, choose wisely.

I'm not familiar with the later version of the '49, mine is a '48 which is the same as the early '49's. On my car the throttle linkage unsnaps from the pedal and it isn't necessary to take apart any of the linkage. Take a close look at the back (floor pan side) of the pedal to see if there is a ball on the linkage that snaps into a socket on the pedal. If so, give the pedal a firm pull to unsnap it from the linkage which can then be pulled through the floor pan.

I would want the 2000lb stand for our flathead. Though the smaller stand should be enough, I wouldn't want to see any flex in the stand while my meaty parts are working around and under the engine.

The cheaper option might be a custom wrench made from a cheapie wrench with the assistance of an acetylene torch??

The easiest solution.............don't top off the tank!! I don't know if you have an early or late '49, they have different body styles. The early version is identical to my "48, the late version may have a different connection at the fuel filler. If the filler neck comes out through the fender you can probably replace the large hose without dropping the tank. Here is how I removed the tank the first time on my '48. This can be a pretty straight-forward job or it can be more challenging if the strap hardware is corroded. Disconnect and cap off the fuel line. Be careful that you don't lose the little brass ferrule in the tank fitting! Drain the fuel at this point if you can't readily get the drain open on the tank, better to do it through the line fitting than break the drain fitting loose from the tank. Disconnect the rubber hoses on the filler at the fender. They may be hard as concrete and will have to be cut off, this is a tight fit and may require patience....possibly a lot of patience. Place a floor jack under the tank with a piece of plywood supporting the tank. Open the sender access plate in the trunk floor and disconnect the sender wires. Now......the fun begins. You need to remove the straps securing the tank. Look carefully under the tank and the inside of the trunk to see how the hardware is arranged in your car. Do whatever is necessary to loosen these fasteners so the straps can be removed. If they are corroded, well, this will be a bit more involved. If you are lucky the tailpipe won't be in the way of dropping the tank. If not.....you have some more work ahead of you......domino theory..... Installing is the reverse. An extra set of hands is helpful but not absolutely necessary.

Yes, messing with the transmission would be way down my list of possible remedies. Proper shifting is very dependent on trans and motor mount rigidity/alignment and shift linkage adjustment. The linkage adjustment is very sensitive and the slightest mis-adjustment can cause all sorts of misbehavior. I would verify mounts condition and shifter adjustment before turning to troubleshooting the transmission.

Guess I'm a bit uninformed....but what exactly is "chugging"....does this mean "missing" or low on power or what? Thanks.

How well does it work?

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From our Downloads section: https://p15-d24.com/files/file/5-overspring_toolpdf/

You can make a pressure bleeder from a small garden sprayer with a bit of creativity and shade tree engineering. I have the motive pressure bleeder but it may be over your budget. Getting a spare leg to pump the pedal while you open bleeders is the lowest cost option.....unless it comes with residual expenses.... 😄

The gear selector rod is the one that has to be in correct adjustment for all gears to be engaged. This adjustment is pretty sensitive, at least it is on my car, a very small adjustment can be the difference between finding or not finding 1st and reverse or 2nd and 3rd. Keep working with it until you find the sweet spot. I don't think your clutch is the problem here, you may want to return that linkage to the original configuration.

There is a rubber grommet in the shift linkage that has probably deteriorated and allowed everything to get sloppy....or it may be entirely missing. I'm not sure why adjusting the linkage on jackstands would be an issue but I would make the adjustments while the car is on the ground.

The group is still active, I just joined. Try clearing your browser cache then try the link again.

The transmission mounts may be sagging and throwing the shift linkage out of adjustment. Follow the procedure in the service manual for adjusting the linkage, that may fix your problem.

That would be an easy proactive option for any pump installation, new or rebuilt.

OK, your new ride runs and drives fine.....why change the carb?? If it is happy now it'll probably be good for a long time. These are reliable cars when in good driver condition. Beautiful car, looks identical to my '48. Mine still has the original carb and ignition, it hasn't failed me for 4+ years of frequent cruising, often 30+ miles at a time.

Not if you use remote reservoirs that are easily accessible.

Here is something you might consider. Having the cable break and not being able to release the hood latch would be a major irritation. I applied the same remedy I put on my TR6 which has hinges on the leading edge of the hood. If that cable breaks you really have a problem! I added a second cable for emergency release and it has a handle in the left front fender well. I can reach up in the fender and release the latch with little effort.

You do have a service manual, right??