Sam Buchanan

This parts manual might be useful, maybe it has 7-passenger info: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12067945&cc=1331895&pt=910&jsn=499

I've never considered the headlights to be a problem on my 6v P15. I installed common halogen sealed beams and a new dimmer switch and freshened up the terminal block behind the grill. One of my favorite runs is an after-dark drive from my brother's house in the hills and deer are plentiful. The lights are just fine for the speeds the car was intended to be driven even on a major highway (55-60mph).

Excellent! I suspect the alternator is a fine upgrade to keep the mongo battery hot....doubt the old genny could feed that monster a proper diet! Healthy starter......hot battery.....good wiring.......reliable starts.

Rest assured I'm not leading the 6v marching band. But I think something we need to consider is these old cars were daily drivers back in their day and they started reliably. People weren't converting them to 12v just so they could get them started every morning. I have to wonder how many times a 12v conversion is performed just as a band-aid applied over systemic problems such as poor wiring, a sluggish starter or a battery that isn't being kept fully charged by an anemic generator. Perhaps many reliability concerns could be addressed by making sure the existing 6v system is in optimum condition by addressing basic maintenance issues. These old cars worked very well in their day, there is no reason why they can't be as reliable today if the electrical system is in good condition. Having said that a set of good battery and starter cables along with an alternator will go along way toward keeping a 6v car happy.

I am definitely not anti-12v. All my old 60’s VWs were converted to 12 volts for some of the same reasons stated here. But if I had a vintage Beetle now it would probably remain 6v just for originality. The ‘69 Beetle I drive now was produced with 12v and it’ll stay that way. The only reason I mention 6v is because some have had bad experiences with faulty 6v cars and don’t know how well a good 6v system will work. We have new members arriving and to some of them a 6v system is totally unknown to them. My intention is to help those who might find updated 6v service histories useful so an informed decision can be made. It is good to have choices.

I'm not following the cheaper to go 12v unless you are referring to the incredibly complicated system the original poster is describing. Less than $150 for a new 6v alternator and nothing on the car has to be changed. I would, however, upgrade to the proper 6v battery and starter cables if they are not present, that will solve the cold weather starting problems.

Or install a 6v alternator, keep the 6v battery and drive happily ever after. 😁

Good info, Rich.....I learned a lot! When I got my P15 it still had one of the "old" sealed beam headlights that looked like it had a bulb inside it. It was defective and got replaced with a conventional sealed beam to match the other one.

Ok...................

The leather is thin and very high quality, much like a fine pair of driving gloves. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtLlReasVwo

A source for a leather wheel cover that I used for the TR6 is Wheelskins. It is custom cut for a particular wheel and I was impressed with the quality and fit. It has been in service for three years and looks as good as new. Wheelskins It appears they can make about any size cover, just need to supply the dimensions of the wheel. The TR6 wasn't listed in their stock but the cover they made per my measurements fit perfectly.

Often caused by severely degraded contacts. This is the same principle we see when trying to use 12v battery cables on a 6v system...the small cables will show continuity but not provide sufficient capacity to flow the current needed to operate the starter. Continuity and current capacity are two different functions. Voltage drop is a signature of reduced circuit capacity.

No, it is a hardened steel shaft with a drive fit in the transmission case......when all the components are fresh.

The shaft isn't supposed to require any sealing, at original assembly it was a press fit into the case. But it seems that in my tranny 75 years of service has loosened that fit enough for oil to leak past the shaft. The "plug" I made with a penny has been working well so far. The leak was obvious when I had the transmission leveled on the bench and filled with oil.

I bought a different "brand" of that meter and the dwell function didn't work, was really hoping it would, the price was right. Guess I got a bad one.

See if this thread has any useful info: https://p15-d24.com/topic/58630-major-leak-countershaft-3-speed/#comment-630905

True. https://www.harborfreight.com/612v-circuit-tester-with-5-ft-lead-63603.html

Or maybe it's so you can open the diff and let the stale air escape.....................

When in doubt go to the manufacturer's website. https://www.powerprobe.com/na/en/product-list/content/308EbfcE6f63 Measures 0-70 vdc. Seems a bit pricey ($150) to me for the very simple troubleshooting we do on our cars. This is what I use: https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/multimeters-testers/7-function-digital-multimeter-59434.html I don't even bother replacing the battery, just throw the meter away and get another one for $7. I have several of these scattered around in various vehicles.

Be careful about who's rear end you are looking at..............................

I agree. I also am wondering about your reasons for wanting to convert to 12v. A conversion makes adding modern accessories such as sound systems easier, but a properly sorted out 6v system works very well. Get the car roadworthy on 6v then you can make an informed decision about whether or not a change to 12v is justified.

Most likely they don't care...................see above post about being a slave to the database..........

An easy filter fix is one of the metal filters commonly found in your local auto parts emporium. I would mount it near the fuel pump outlet so it would be below the exhaust manifold in the remote chance it developed a leak. Here is your first purchase!!! https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10593924&cc=1486874&pt=10335&jsn=382 Rock Auto has the head gasket: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=121713&cc=1349917&pt=5412&jsn=416 Also your friendly NAPA can help you out: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FPGHS7564C These flatties were produced in various flavors up to about 1970, often used in fork lifts, farm equipment, stationary pumps, etc. Check the mainstream suppliers first then you can use the specialty vendors when necessary.

The engine sounds good! However, the idle is set way too high, these engines will tick over like a sewing machine at 400-500 rpm. Also....please get rid of the the plastic fuel filter! When that thing gets brittle, cracks and sprays fuel due to proximity to the exhaust manifold you will have a serious fire hazard. And yes, it looks like you are due a head gasket.