Sam Buchanan

I had to remove the rear crank cap to be able to remove the flywheel bolts. I understand that isn't necessary in all applications but definitely was in mine....I think my memory is correct about this.......

A question---why does the clutch need to be removed? But if you have decided it definitely has to come out it can be done singlehandedly, I've done it on my '48 P15. The transmission isn't overly heavy, I estimate about 60-70 lbs since I can pick it up off the floor and set it on the work bench. The tranny comes out separate from the bell housing. I use a floor jack with a crude wood cradle within which the tranny is secured with ratchet straps. You definitely want to use alignment pins for removal and installation of the transmission. Order the correct clutch alignment tool, it has unique splines that you won't find in the local auto parts store. I assume the floor boards of your car can be removed which greatly improves access to the transmission.....if not, your job will be much more difficult unless you have access to a lift. The engine will have to be supported when you pull the bell housing because it includes the rear mounts....might as well replace them, too. Be VERY selective about the release bearing you install, many of the aftermarket bearings are junk. A complete clutch job also includes refacing the flywheel which is another large complication to this job and requires pulling the oil pan and probably the rear crank bearing cap. Did I mention to be sure that clutch really needs to come out?! This is a major job if you aren't accustomed to heavy mechanical work but it can be done with sufficient prep and a methodical approach. Hope these thoughts are helpful.

Let sleeping dogs lie........

I had to Google that one................. Founders Hall has a rich history beginning before the Civil War. A beloved story about the building (might have some element of truth) is that the Madame of the girl's college in the building at the time stood on the balcony when the Union troops were ransacking our town and read a letter supposedly from Abraham Lincoln stating that the building was to be spared. Anyway, it worked and the building still looks much as it did 150 years ago.

Another version of the B/W. Corrected the rectilinear distortion and added some sepia.

Took the son and granddaughter for a little tour of the town this afternoon. Since he had his camera with him we decided to make a stop in front of historic Founders Hall on the Athens State University campus, the following images captured the moments.

I stand corrected.

It might start but it won't run without proper air/fuel mixture. ?

You can't run the engine with the top of the carb removed. What was being suggested is to run the engine, shut it off, then remove the top of the carb to see where the level of the fuel is being maintained in the carb bowl.

Failure of the gasket between the manifolds will not result in a vacuum leak but can certainly cause a lot of noise.

It's been affecting compression for about 80 years and several hundreds of thousands of engines....... We consider it "clever" engineering.

Agreed. But Donald's car was cranking, just slowly. That means the solenoid was getting enough voltage to pull in and send current to the starter. What you are describing is different--not enough voltage to pull in the solenoid and the starter doesn't turn. That is why I think Donald fixed his sluggish starter by improving the starter ground, not the solenoid ground.

Glad the starter is spinning better! However.....I'm puzzled by how the solenoid ground could effect starter performance. Isn't the ground just a connection for the solenoid coil? The coil doesn't carry current to the starter--if no ground the solenoid won't energize and the starter won't run. A poor ground might be enough to energize the coil and close the starter cable contacts. But the coil doesn't impact starter running speed, it's either on or off. I have to wonder if removing the bolt and cleaning it actually improved the starter ground (not solenoid ground) which allowed better spin. Is the bolt you removed one that attaches the starter to the bellhousing? You probably cleaned up the ground path for the starter which is a common remedy for a sluggish starter. If I need some education, please do so.

Are your new cables correctly sized for 6v? You need mongo-sized cables, you won't find them in a big-box auto parts store.

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Just a datapoint.....the bolts attaching the old master cylinder/pedal support to the bracket are too short. If nyloc nuts are used for locking purposes there should always be at least one, and preferably two or three threads protruding beyond the elastic lock. This is a critical area but something that is easily fixed.

So what does the rebuilder have to say about all this, especially the freeze plugs?

Wilwood 1", part #260-7563. The reservoirs come with the cylinder with adapters for either cylinder or remote installation.

You have a faulty cable.

Never use a torch around brake cleaner……it can kill you. https://www.thefabricator.com/thewelder/article/arcwelding/cleaning-material-with-brake-cleaner-before-welding-a-risky-move-that-can-turn-deadly#:~:text=The Safety Data Sheet (SDS,hydrogen chloride and possibly phosgene.” No need to buy a brake line kit. Your local auto parts store has prefabbed lines in various lengths, just put together whatever is needed.

Just a note about the filter. I've used the glass tube filters and commonly saw air in the filter. This never caused drivability problems, even on an engine that saw frequent full-throttle. ? I suspect the orientation of the filter traps some air that never enters the fuel supply to the carb. As mentioned above if you see bubbles being introduced into the filter that would indicate a suction leak. But most likely your running problems aren't related to the filter.

Are you sure there are no restrictions in the muffler or air filter?

Unnecessary post deleted.

Have you checked the condition of the release spring? Maybe it needs to be replaced or shimmed? The latch pin is adjustable.

Yep, that 225 psi rating should have an adequate safety margin. That is probably the hose Gates calls out for swaged hoses in the blurb I quoted above. On most of my automotive projects (and all aviation installations) I use stainless braided hose and AN fittings, but I went simple on the P15.