Sam Buchanan

Stop advancing the timing just before the engine pings while pulling that steep hill on the way to grandma's house.................

Your engine needs deworming!!

Excellent! We know what you are describing. ?

Excellent. That changes the character of your original (unedited) post. Some might be concerned about whether or not non-detergent oil is in the engine, be good to find as much recent service history as possible. Enjoy your new ride! P.S. Your first purchase is one of these: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10593924&cc=1486874&pt=10335&jsn=381

I think you just explained why it is not practical to get the machine work you described in most instances today. Machining in a commercial shop is expensive even if you can get someone to do this small a job. You had this done some time in the past by someone who enjoyed doing this on his own time. That doesn't represent reality for most of us now. This is a similar situation to the solder sleeves we discussed recently. Both of these technologies are proven and readily accepted in a variety of applications. However, some folks are hesitant to use technology with which they aren't familiar so they are convinced it is unsatisfactory. Fine......don't use it. The rest of us will take advantage of modern tech which is usually less expensive, doesn't require old-school techniques or expertise and yields satisfactory results. Personal choice. By the way....my P15 has disc brakes, an alternator and a full-time electric fuel pump.......I don't hesitate to drive the car anytime, anywhere and it has proven to be extremely reliable. Old tech or new tech? ?

We discussed this extensively when I first posted this photo 3+ years ago. It isn't a fatigue crack, it is corrosion and is only on the surface. Yes, that is a worn hub and not that unusual for a bearing surface eroded by dust and a leather seal. But the Speedi-Sleeve is a good remedy. I filled the groove and "crack" with JB Weld prior to installing the sleeve.

Same here.....very interesting..........

Uses the same seal, the sleeve is only a very few thou's thick. This is not untested tech, these things are an accepted repair. I'm running one on the crank hub of my P15.

Speedi-Sleeves (proprietary brand name) are a common and widely accepted repair in the automotive and commercial communities. They have been around for a long and are available to fit nearly any size sealing surface. https://www.skf.com/us/products/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve Your education is proceeding at a break-neck pace....first solder sleeves and now speedi-sleeves! ?

I think I would prefer a new SpeediSleeve over putting a new seal on a worn hub. Be sure the sleeve is secured to the hub with sealant so it can't spin on the hub.

Is this car running and driving or not? Some major problem areas include brakes, fuel system, cooling system and electrical. If the car is roadworthy then it will be easy to get a rudimentary idea of the condition of these systems. If not then it is best to consider this car a project that may need extensive ($$$$) work in these areas. It depends on what you want, a car that you can drive now or a project with good bones. It is difficult to offer specific ideas without knowing your intentions. The fact the car has a modern auto transmission is reason to wonder what other mods have been made and this makes it more difficult to evaluate. The driveshaft won't be stock and questions arise about the rear axle (brakes, final drive ratio, etc?).

https://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/1948-CHRYSLER-NEW-YORKER-274271

Kissimmee or Barret Jackson? Ahhh....a closer look at the photos gives it away....found the listing. Beautiful car!

Congrats on your new ride! Shop manual: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10593676&cc=1486757&pt=10335&jsn=404&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm%2FGG3C%2Fl2QOXSJubi7WSpUmUSdg3OxWOs2f5z9h422EONy36O0PjCuaadDqI1r86y%2FvJ1lBqxeBNhI9mMX8H1x0fHFzmF%2BF%2BfJVJLRM%2FPOzb2h9mGwtOklgC7qGdsUwYYJkbMC5HSTqqj9r6dqkkEPp62vDQ%2Bj2YXQZ2rhmyqI4yy2JFS7HrlFvubsR2lAELFgt%2B0f71xpDDIRtui42KjEVgxLqY9HJqAD0FJEAONYacHuYQbtKA5GOT1w6OHQ%2FhdpEUARvUf7otZn0rToHZr0DKEZE%2FpMRlqn0vrSg75V1%2Bxpnox75%2BkOtoL1Oz9gSZ9YqMYZuNN1cHYxvPEhx%2FT86FStvFsG

I suspect you have an aftermarket turn signal switch and it's wired incorrectly. Google Signal Stat and download a wiring diagram for the switch. It'll take some sleuthing to figure out which wires go where. Do you have colored wires like this coming out of the switch?

Wow……………….

There is a very simple solution for those who have concerns or questions about solder sleeves. Don't use them. However....if your wiring architecture puts tensile strain on your soldered connections then the wiring design is faulty....wires too short or poorly oriented. A fundamental requirement of proper wiring design is to incorporate strain relief. Fix the underlying deficiency then any type of splice will be more than adequate in our cars. I use crimped connectors with a ratcheting crimper, never had issues even with crimps that are 25 years old in my aircraft. I instructed mil-spec soldering during my first real job a loooong time ago where we built harnesses and boards for Army things that blew stuff up. I can still solder fairly well and don't hesitate to use it if applicable but there are far faster methods for splicing wire that are perfectly suitable for most applications.

Here is a comparison of those three sizes at 72 ppi:

You can rest assured the major brand connectors work and work well when properly applied. They have been around for a long time and are common in aviation and defense applications. I don't know why there is a crimper in that ad. The RayChem connectors DO NOT get crimped, but they are definitely a soldered connection. The sleeves are transparent for easy inspection. Here is the datasheet for the RayChem SolderSleeve wire splices: https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=srchrtrv&DocNm=2347480-1_raychem-devices&DocType=Data+Sheet&DocLang=English&DocFormat=pdf&PartCntxt=403289-000

Yes, they use a very low temp solder. I would source these from an electronic supply such as Digikey or Mouser to insure getting a mainstream brand instead of an offshore knockoff. (Apologies for the long link) TE Connectivity seems to be a vendor that services the aerospace and marine industry. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-aerospace,-defense-and-marine/CWT-3/2046047?utm_adgroup=&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMax Shopping_Product_Category_Cables and Wires&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_id=go_cmp-20053924771_adg-_ad-__dev-c_ext-_prd-2046047_sig-Cj0KCQiAh8OtBhCQARIsAIkWb69WhC-UkpNVofp5UC2Qf-XvHt_hg0jeo5prmwte3a4fwM5z_9RU13QaAhKuEALw_wcB&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAh8OtBhCQARIsAIkWb69WhC-UkpNVofp5UC2Qf-XvHt_hg0jeo5prmwte3a4fwM5z_9RU13QaAhKuEALw_wcB

I've seen these used and have never heard anything adverse about them, quicker and much less technique required than for a conventional solder/shrink tubing connection.

That will be one cool sounding boat! The little Suzuki on my little ZIP runabout would run and hide....... ?

I know how to fix the rear seal, been in there a couple of times. It still leaks......but it's just a minor irritation. I leak a little, too.........

Yes, the colorization is a little flakey but that wasn't the point of including the link. Each time I address a service/repair issue on the P15 I try to resolve it to like-new condition or at least to where it will function as close to like-new as I can get it. The reason for that being my emphasis is to make the car as reliable as it would have been when it was in daily service. It has proven to be a very dependable driver (just wish the rear seal didn't leak!).

This is why driving my 1948 P15 is fascinating for me. Every time I point it down the road I realize I have been transported to 1948 (except for our roads being far better). If I'm concerned about driving it some distance I recall that these cars in their day were driven......everywhere. Two summers ago I spent some time (in a fairly new F-150) on original portions of Rt 66. I wish it had been practical to get my P15 on those old highways, that would have been a trip back in time. Wow.....imagine driving these old cars for hundreds of miles across the desert SW.....we worry about getting to Dairy Queen and back..... ? So I've returned my P15 to as close to new condition as possible and drive it wherever I wish knowing it was built to be somebody's main (only?) form of transportation. It is proving to be a great journey, our cars belong on the road. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8nYzMY_fuJU