HotRodTractor

The S10 had World Class T5 transmissions in 1993 and not all of them are World Class. I bought the Camaro transmission with the intention of swapping over an S10 tail onto it... in fact I have one... but I have heard of some oiling issues created by doing so - I need to look into more details. Besides.... this Camaro trans is weird.... it has the Ford bolt pattern, while having the longer Chevy input shaft..... it might be a pain to adapt cleanly. I'm just trying to weigh all my options to get the best result for something I plan on putting at least 20K miles a year on.

Just a quick little update to keep my notes documented somewhere. Dual carb/dual exhaust with correct matching E9K1 carbs. The need rebuilt, air governors removed and tossed (someone already pulled the butterflies). Engine needs appropriately identified - I know it came out of a fire truck - but the casting isn't stamped (it doesn't even look like it was ever machined on the pad where they are normally stamped.... replacement block maybe??) I also have a IND265 with 300 some hours on it out of an Oliver combine and several "Spitfire" heads to help the engine compartment look like a factory hot rod might have looked. Years ago I bought several T5 transmissions - one of which was a "World Class" Camaro transmission (1352-247) - its a bit of an odd ball because it is a Chevy with the Ford bolt pattern on it... but it has a nice gear spacing that I think would work well for a daily driver behind one of these engines. With the 3.73 gears in the rear and a 29" tall tire (probably something close to a 225/75R16...) will give me something that looks like this as far as speed and RPMs go: Undecided if I take the gears out and plop them into a World Class S10 box, or just get an adapter that works with the Camaro box, or just find a complete World Class S10 box and use that.... it looks like the 1352-216 should be pretty common and would give similar results to the Camaro box:

Spring special was the one special version that came to mind when he said that. I wasn't sure if it was a legit thing or not.

So - my first real question as I am still sorting through parts and waiting for my next opportunity to go collect the rest of my bounty: When I was picking this up the previous owner that had begun the restoration told me that this was a "Holiday Special" - was that a thing for these B-series trucks and what does that mean? I know I've seen and read things about special versions of these, but I'm not familiar with any of them in enough detail to talk about.

I've been wanting to build a B-series for a daily driver for quite some time - long enough that I have been collecting parts that I thought I would need for the project even though I didn't have my "perfect" truck to start the build. That has now changed.... Yesterday I went and picked up the first load of truck and parts of what I am going to use: That is a 1950 B-2-C with a completely restored chassis, rebuilt engine, 3 speed fluid drive, finished but unassembled bed and rear fenders. Not pictured is the first truck bed full of parts, and two other parts trucks that I get along with this deal. My plan: Install a Chrysler 265 with dual carbs and dual exhaust, Spitfire head (mostly for looks), a decent camshaft, put a T5 transmission behind it and feed the power to a Ford 8.8 rear axle with 3.73 gears, locking diff, and disc brakes. Disc brakes up front as well. Since I intend on it being a daily driver that gets a LOT of miles put on her - I will add A/C, a modern radio, 12V negative ground system, LED lights, etc... for convenience and safety. Overall - I want it to look and feel like something that someone could have put together in the 50s, even though some of it is newer technology. So, I'm starting this thread to document the journey with all its trials and tribulations, to look for advice and opinions (and I know I'll get some of both that I won't listen to! LOL). Hopefully this might inspire others in the quest to reach their goals with these awesome pieces of old iron.

This is an old farm truck I pulled out of a fence row in Colorado. An afternoon with a hose, soap, and some Mother's cleaner wax got me here.

I need to look - I might have a 2-bolt full flow filter setup that I'm not planning on using. I'm still going to use the full flow filtering, but I have a modern filter element that is hidden in an old "style" beehive type filter housing.

Interesting information. I happen to have a 265 Industrial I removed out of a very low hour Oliver combine. I haven't dug completely into the details on the head yet, but I wondered if it wasn't lower compression with a different camshaft for the application. I know for a fact mine had a belt driven governor on it (well its still hanging on the side of the engine). Time for me to dig in and figure out the details. I wanted to run a Sptifire head and a good cam anyway.... so its a good excuse to make that happen.

I found this thread very enlightening. I come and go from this forum as time permits, but a dream of mine for a long time is to assembly a Pilothouse for a daily driver - this gives me encouragement as I believe I have just located the perfect start for my project. I already have many of the parts I need from collecting (hoarding) over the years and several parts trucks. When I get this new acquisition home (and all the associated parts that come with it), I'll make a thread.

I know I have been watching Pilothouse prices a lot closer in the last 6 months or so (I'm looking for a good one to update into a new long distance daily driver). I have seen prices all over the map. Just this morning I saw what I would probably be a perfect truck for my purposes (about $8K truck compared to most) Listed for $29K.... He was basing his price on NADA values (I think, its in the ad) that show these trucks selling for a minimum of $13K to a top of $54K.

I was watching this truck on Ebay. It would have been perfect for my daily driver (with a few updates), but I obviously didn't get funding together in time.

I'm interested in the answers given. I'm gathering parts and looking for the perfect 1/2T to become my new long distance daily driver. Upgrading the brakes for the daily commute is paramount (at least in my mind). I have no intentions of using an engine other than a mopar flathead 6.

I have a 10K asymmetrical lift and if I remember correctly my lift needs 12' 6" of clearance to install in the shop. There are some lower profile lifts that eliminate the cross bar at the top for a lower ceiling height at the expense of having a bar connecting them at the base that you have to drive over.

Damn. I just saw this. I work on the East side of Columbus and live way out in the boonies west of the city.

That's awesome - and I'm jealous of the doodlebug - I have wanted one of those for a while. I see you are in Ohio - I'm curious as to where this farm show is that has all of those awesome old trucks. I've collected tractors for years and am planning on going to some local shows in my 1-1/2T Dodge with a John Deere 330 loaded on the back, but would drive a bit further than ordinary for a show like you have.

Running some quick Google calculator that should put you in the range of 2100 rpms at 50mph. (I estimated tire size - I'm not sure what size you are running) I agree - find a cheap digital tach that you can just wrap a wire around a spark plug wire and get a good RPM reading at a known speed to make sure everything is in line.

That is a beautiful truck. There are most likely 3 options: 1) Determine what gear ratio your rear end has - and then if you can get one that is numerically lower - you'll knock down some RPMs. 2) A very popular option is to swap the rear end for a newer unit and do some upgrades along the way (better brakes). For instance I just picked up a Mercury Mountaineer rear axle with 3.73 gears, limited slip diff, disc brakes, etc... for $200. I plan on cutting off all the brackets and welding on new to make it nearly a bolt in replacement as its nearly the correct width and the right bolt pattern. 3) Transmission swap - its fairly easy and cheap to install a T-5 transmission into these trucks giving you more gears and an overdrive. I think I have $100 into the S10 T5 that I have in the shop(S10 tailhousing puts the shifter in the right location, but there are better gear ratio sets available in other applications). You'll need to get an adapter setup (I think the one is $100 or less for everything on a 3 speed truck) plus clutch parts, driveshaft, etc... I'm getting ready to do both option 2 and 3 on a Pilothouse truck. Its an ugly truck I bought for parts years ago and its grown on me.... I figure it will fit in with the current trend of patina and rat rod and quick, cheap build that I can have some fun with while I start shopping for a nice truck to make a daily driver out of..... and then I'll have my entire drive train already lined out.

I've been following his build. Quite encouraging when the first several people that I talked to about my project told me that the motor was too long and things would be all out of proportion. No matter how many times I have measured stuff out - it seems like there is just enough room to make it all work. I sat down a while ago and sketched out a rough concept to scale in about 30 minutes. It still needs some tweaks here and there... but I'm positive its going to be a fun ride.

I'm slowly piling up the parts to build a 265 Chrysler powered 1928 Model A Roadster pickup with the main intent of driving Route 66. In fact I am cleaning out the shop and selling off old junk and projects right now with the intent of going from a pile of parts to a drive-able machine before this time next year which is doable, but quite the goal since I am starting with bare '32 frame rails and building it up from there. I imagine it will take me another year after its in drive-able condition to have enough kinks cleaned up and have it presentable enough to make the long journey from central Ohio to Santa Barbara and back. I'm sure a few shake down runs in the 500-600 mile range will happen before the epic journey as well.

My problem arose because of a bad dimension in my notes. Its still a problem - but a solvable one. Its only a "problem" because I want to build the deck as low to the ground as I possibly can. 36" isn't doable without humps for the rear wheels.... I'm not doing humps as I need the deck flat more than I need it low. It will probably end up at 39-40" once I am finished..... its not hatefull.... but it will look awefully tall sitting next to my modern day gooseneck with a 30" tall deck. It is what it is.

Well there goes a monkey wrench into this plan..... It looks like the 7.50-20 tires that I can buy might be far larger than what I have on the truck..... good thing I was dropping them into the sketch of my assembly..... I guess I need to go do some real world research....

The initial makings of the bed design that I am working on. I intend for it to be as low as possible (36" from ground to top of the deck is about as low as I think I can make it). I'm debating on making a dovetail on the back.... but I probably will simply because it will be easier loading tractors/trucks/cars/etc.... the occasional time I would haul hay/feed/lumber/etc... I can make do. The front bulkhead is very preliminary - but is the basic idea - using mandrel bent 2x4 tubing to protect the cab and I wanted it to try and match the body lines as much as possible. I should have clear line of sight out of all the windows too.

Beautiful truck!

Yes - its the 236 25" engine. I haven't ran a compression test on it yet as it appears to run well enough for the time being. If it gives me any fits and needs some TLC inside, I'll pull it and drop in a rebuilt 251 or 265. And yes - its long - 170" wheel base..... perfect for putting my little John Deere 330 Utility tractor on and taking it to a local tractor show. lol

Its been a rather busy year - but I found some time to do some tinkering over the weekend. I added a new fuel pump, cleaned the carb up a little and fixed a couple of bad gaskets, new plugs and wires, and added a new gas tank in a temporary location. She runs like a dream and I am sure she will be even better after doing some distributor work and a new coil. I also took the time give her a much needed bath and started cleaning her up.... and she cleaned up even better than I imagined she would! Some more cleaning is needed, I need to start tackling the brakes, but now that I have a good solid stable running engine with good vacuum that should be easier to dig into the booster setup and get things ironed out. Maybe I will get to that this weekend. I also have started on the new bed design - when I get it a little further along I'll post up a Solidworks screenshot.