HotRodTractor

I have a Chrysler Industrial 265 out of an Oliver combine that was from the 1960s - but I don't recall seeing a sheet metal ID plate on the side of the motor. I guess I'll need to go look. The combine was low hours and the motor purrs like a kitten.

Very cool. Its nice to see something be actually legit that has an initial scammy feeling to it.

I really think a diesel swapped Pilothouse would be very useful and wouldn't necessarily be all that limiting. Personally if I was going to do it I would probably choose a 4BT with the hopes that everything fit neatly under the hood without the drastic firewall modifications to make it fit (4 cylinders versus 6). If you chose say the Cummins ISB170 - that is 170hp straight out of the box with all the modern conveniences and efficiencies afforded to late model common rail injection. And the drone doesn't have to be a drone. Late model diesels are very quiet if you want them to be.

The Custom that Hudson was posting about on Inliners a long long time ago when I first started really reading up and learning about the flathead that I had been driving nearly daily before I went to college. That was probably 2001-2002 time frame.

His intent is to leave it as is as far as I know. And yes - its not his first rodeo. We both met in the diesel performance world several years ago when he was drag racing and I was pulling a sled. We go back and forth and collaborate as well as lend fabrication assistance to each other for our various projects. I didn't do much with Rusty Truck - but his current race vehicle (compound turbo'd cummins powered S10) has several hours of help and fabrication in. And yes - typically diesel wins out over flat six - everyone keeps asking my why I am keeping the six in #7 and why I am putting one in my '28 Ford roadster instead of doing a diesel. lol

What V8?

It definitely is a ton of work. Lots of modifications to make it work. Not mine, but a good friend's "Rusty Truck" project.

Vacuum operated butterflies. If the vacuum goes up, the butterfly closes, vacuum drops, butterfly opens. So if you stab the throttle they open up and give you full potential, until you reach a point where the engine is demanding enough vacuum to close the butterflies back down. Mine are completely disconnected from the vacuum and missing the butterfly plates.... so apparently the firetruck it came out of needed some more oomph according to the guys that maintained it. Quite ironically I found it interesting that the engine came out of a fire truck which typically are well maintained and low mileage, but yet there are no numbers stamped on the ID pad on the block, indicating to me that the block has been replaced at least once..... perhaps when the air governors got installed.... lol I also have an IND265 with a belt driven governor that controls the throttle linkage if someone is interested in what that setup looks like.

That I get removing the governors, but why remove the balance tube unless you have a hood clearance issue? I was planning on leaving my balance tube on. BTW - it looks like my governors are not original equipment with the way the linkage has been cut, and lengthened with a welder.

Personally anything I label as a project is something that I refer to as a she. If I am going to spend countless hours alone in the shop with something that ends up always needing something from me, and can sometimes be stubborn and frustrating, and often I don't like, but can't help but love.... that something is going to be a she, but if you wish to do all of that with a guy I won't question your life choices.

Where are you located? I live on the North end of Champaign County and work over in Columbus. Its always nice to see someone close with another Pilothouse.

Amazingly I hadn't made that leap yet. Sounds like it should be more along the lines of "Old Number Seven" I can dig that.

Perfect thread. I was just going to start looking for pictures of stock manifolds that guys have modified for dual carb/dual exhaust and there is plenty of good pictures in here to see what I wanted and needed to see. Thanks!

I acquired that brush guard off of a B-Series stake truck that I bought 17 years ago. The truck was rotten beyond saving, but it had a lot of items that I pulled off of it before scrapping what couldn't be saved. It was a 1 ton dually that was originally used as a John Deere dealership truck. I still have the polished grill bars off of it, the brush guard, the stake racks that have the dealership name on them (the Deere decals fell off long before I got it, but you can see where they were).

Oh - I almost forgot. While out driving around I decided to grab a brush guard that I have had for years and set it on just because its been so long since its been on a truck.... pretty sure its destined to be installed on this one.

I thought for sure I attached pictures earlier.... There she is loaded up on the tow rig, a good shot just after a rain shower went through in Texas, and some pictures of the truck after she was unloaded and a quick couple mile drive just to see what I am up against.... she runs well.... but she needs a lot to be truly safe and useful. Quite ironically - the farm in Colorado where this truck came from was having a hard time keeping all the trucks and titles straight, so they scratched numbers into the hoods/fenders/grills/wherever convienent for them to easily read when they were gathering up everything to sell. This truck is #7 and it also happens to be the 7th b-series I have had.... so from now on, I'll be calling her #7.

I made it home with the new beast. When I got out to Colorado I had enough time to mess with the truck a little bit. A new battery, a makeshift gas tank with some rubber hose, and some carb adjustments and the truck fired up and drove onto the trailer.

Yup - there is a booster setup right behind the fuel tank inside the frame. Since that takes care of my braking concerns - this might be a clean it up, fix it, and drive it as is. I'll know more when I pick it up next Friday.

Does anyone have any pictures of this remote booster cylinder and where it would be located? i'm trying to find out if it has it installed and since its not in my possession it is easier to find out if I tell them exactly where to look and what it looks like. i assume its just like any other vacuum boosted brake setup - except remotely mounted.

I didn't even realize that there was a possibility of it having powered brakes. That is good information that might change my direction slightly in that department. I guess I need to wait until I pick it to see what I really have. Suppose that it doesn't have powered brakes - I would imagine it wouldn't be that difficult to add. Do you have any pictures of this system?

I've had a few B series trucks over the last 17 years or so and have enjoyed driving them (or parting them out as some of them were barely good enough for parts trucks). I like them - they are different - and I love the motor (I'm gathering parts to install a 265 Chrysler into a Model A Ford roadster pickup...). So knowing all this I had the opportunity to swap some late model diesel truck parts for a B-1-F-170 that looks to be a very solid Colorado truck that I will be picking up later this month. I intend for this to be the "new" farm truck - basically hauling a couple loads of hay a year, running to feed mill every couple of weeks for a ton or so of feed, etc... plus maybe load up an antique tractor or so and go to some local shows with a period correct transportation piece. I'm relatively certain that I can get it running before I ever load it on the trailer although it hasn't been running in a couple of years. I plan on keeping the Flathead power plant (or one just like it - I have several 25" engines in the shop for parts if needed for the project). Even though it is a 1 1/2T truck - I plan on fitting a newer OD transmission (likely a T5) as well as update the rear end to something with disc brakes, plenty of load carrying capacity, and parking brake provisions since I will be swapping transmissions. My question is - is there anyone that has ever done a disc brake update on the front axle of one of these heavier trucks? I have some thoughts and ideas, but I don't want to reinvent the wheel if I don't have to. Jason

Hmmm. Aparently its good for 200hp. Sounds like its perfect for this particular test. lol

Maybe I'll get the dyno out this summer. I have a small water brake dyno that is good to 150hp (I think.... I guess I need to go look.... ). I was planning on breaking in the new engine once its built on the water brake anyway, its not that hard to hook up the torque arm and tach to be able to read the numbers instead of just using it for load. My motor won't be done this summer, but I have a a good compression low hour 265 IND out of an Oliver combine with 300 original hours on it, and I have a stock dual carb and dual exhaust setup as well as a few heads including a factory aluminum head. I also have a couple of pressure transducers that I could put into the "timing" hole on the head and monitor cylinder pressure to determine if a particular state of tune is "safe". Sounds like a fun couple of weekends to me. lol

Since we are having this discussion - does anyone have actual dyno sheets of engines or even chassis dyno sheets for vehicles with these engines installed in them? Actual dynoing of a stock motor, one with the standard upgrades (dual carb, exhaust, milled head, maybe a cam). I totally agree that these things are awesome in stock form, plenty of torque right off idle to keep things entertaining. I don't expect 200Hp, but I think it would be nice. The only way to make the power is to limit the torque down low and move the power curve higher, but that doesn't lend itself to a driver as well as what we already have.

Is that what failed on that engine? The pistons? I remember reading on Inliners about the same time as he was building and testing that engine, I remember that he had issues, but I don't remember what those issues specifically were. The OEM pistons for these engines are big heavy cast slugs of crap. There was some discussion on Inliners and Olskoolrodz about swapping in common aftermarket forged Slant 6 pistons to take advantage of the lighter weight and offset wrist pin. the bore size is slightly different, but by playing around you could get one that would work in one of these blocks with some boring. I remember when I was looking into it long ago I thought I found a piston head to pin height discrepancy that made it a bit of trouble to make work. Of course the ultimate would be to have a billet set of pop up pistons made and instead of milling the heads down to gain compression, you leave them and machine out piston pockets so the pistons come up into the heads while running to help leave the transfer slot between the cylinder and the valves as open and as large as possible. Scratch that - the ultimate would be to cast a brand new cross flow OHV head. The 265 that I am putting together will ultimately have fuel injection and a VS57 supercharger (with a modern compressor wheel installed). I'd love to have a reliable 200hp out of it, but its not necessary. I'm building it to go into a 1928 Ford roadster to use more as a cross country cruiser and fair weather driver with the grand goal of cruising Route 66 with a teardrop camper in tow. Reliability and smooth power with a cool package that turns heads as something different is what I am after.