HotRodTractor

While at a high level I agree with most of that you have missed three major changes in everything made today versus 50 plus years ago. There have been major advancements in material compositions, in design features, and in process control. Material changes are happening at breakneck speeds these days with new alloys and processes being tested daily - just the other day I was talking with a company that is developing breakthrough technology in laser sintering that allows them to precisely PRINT 3D metal objects - one of their demonstrator pieces to show how strong and versatile this new process can be is a fully printed and functional 1911 hand gun printed using various stainless steel, Inconel, and titanium alloys. Major steps have been made in aluminum and iron forging and castings - the alloys are much better, the castings more refined, less porous, and just flat out stronger than those of just a decade ago. Design has come leaps and bounds with the computing power afforded to us these days. Engineers like myself can now design components and do finite element analysis on the part to determine stress levels, flow rates, heat dissipation, etc... all with a few clicks of a mouse and keyboard and then refine those designs multiple times if needed to get the desired results. Out of the box we can make an engine much more efficient without lots of mechanical revisions and slow real world testing. Of course I am still a fan of the real world tests, but those just validate the design these days instead of producing mile long punch lists of issues and major design revisions to work through to try again. Process control - I don't even know where to start on that one... today companies outfit the manufacturing machines such as die cast machines with thousands of sensor to collect data on the production piece of every part and trend these over thousands of pieces to actively predict issues and correct them. Today there are parts that all get x-rayed and ultra-sounded to detect potential defects. There are methods in place for repeated checks to ensure the quality is there and that it continues to be there. 50 years ago it was much more black magic and voodoo (and even today some of that still exists under certain scenarios, but its much better), they knew problems were happening when they were found, the equipment to hold tight tolerances and even measure some of those tolerances on every part just simply did not exist.

I think this is an interesting discussion point. These old engines are very reliable and stout enough to endure quite a bit of abuse. Sure they have their issues with making power, but all engines have some issues that need to be overcome when turning them up above the power they were intended for. The first notable issue to overcome is the oiling system. That can be somewhat solved through cross drilling the crank and some possible bearing mods to help keep lubrication where needed at all times. The next issue to overcome is flow into and out of the engine - flatheads aren't exactly noted for their breathing prowess - the amount that you improve this is going to dictate how much power you can actually build. You can do anything from minor improvements to the OEM setup to an EDGY F-head to bolting on some late model modified OHV heads to making a new OHV head from scratch. The last point of contention I would like to bring up is RPMs. These old girls have heavy rotating parts that just don't like being thrown around all that much - to make power in the existing RPM band - you have to increase torque.... and torque breaks things. To make power and keep the torque lower while making that power you have to spin some RPMs and for that I would be shaving weight. So with just those points in mind - the amount of power is really dictated by how far you want to go and how much money you want to spend as well as at what point do you stop calling it an old Mopar engine and start calling it a custom built item? Some of the other hobbies I am involved in take stock 160-215hp engines and basically throw everything away, spend 6 figures and have 2500+ ponies at the flywheel for use in VERY short duration, and expect to rebuild it at least once a year. I don't have one of those engines yet... not sure I ever will... lol

My "tow truck" is a 2006 Chevy Duramax that I bought new, then recently stripped down to a bare frame and started over with the suspension - it now is mostly Ford and Dodge in the driveline department while maintaining the Duramax and Allison combo - although both are highly modified. The motor has a stock bottom end, but it has a pretty big set of compound turbochargers, big injectors, and all the supporting modifications. 650rwhp in a conservative tune, 500rwhp in my daily driver/trailer towing tune. And because everyone usually tells me that lifted trucks are useless for working and towing: The current state of my 1928 Ford Roadster project - and the main reason I visit this forum is because it will have "Horsepower with a Pedigree" in the form of a 265 industrial Chrysler engine. No those aren't the wheels that I will be using, I just had them laying around and wanted it to look like something. I've also been known to play with several antique tractors of the green and yellow variety.

What kind of condition are you looking for? A friend of mine has this 1 1/2 Ton for sale, it sits in Colorado, but the truck sitting beside it I need to go pick up anyway.... LOL I also have a 1/2 T here at the farm in Ohio What part of Indiana are you from?

I had Pilothouse parts truck with a Fluid Drive and the 4 speed transmission at one time. I wish I would have kept the clutch and transmission out of it. Too late now. It was extra rough with the motor being locked solid so i didn't bother getting too deep into it after I rescued what I could.

That thing is awesome!

Very well said indeed. I don't know many people on this particular forum and I tend to venture here only occasionally in large doses from time to time depending on what I am working on in the shop. But I do know very well how tight knit a community revolving around a shared passion can be. There are several here that I would shake hands with and buy a round for thanks on creating topics to help others and taking the time to answer questions. I just read about the fire this morning and it made me take a step back a moment and be thankful that more damage was not done.

I'm sorry for your loss in all of this. Fire is something that has ravaged many of my friends and family over the years and is just one of those disasters that can be very tough to overcome, but it sounds like you have the right fighting spirit to get through it.

I wouldn't be scared of the T5 transmission in a 1 ton Pilothouse application. The power and torque transmitted through it are low enough that it wouldn't matter. I think the early T5 transmissions were rated up to 265 ft-lbs of input torque and the rating only goes up from there. While they were not used in modern 1 ton trucks, the trucks during the era of the T5 had substantially HP and torque to drive them. I just aquired a 1 1/2T Pilothouse that I don't have home yet, but I have already debated on doing a T5 swap in it just to use it as a slow and steady farm truck hauling hay and feed a couple of times a month. I have enough parts kicking around to make it happen I believe.

Awesome thread! Years ago when I first joined this forum I was going to hot rod out a Pilothouse pickup. Time has morphed that into a Model A with a 265 Mopar - I keep looking for pictures and ideas from others that have done similar swaps, but the net doesn't seem to reveal much. Your bucket looks awesome and I love the color! Don - do you have any other pictures or video of that Model A?

Very nice. Being a turbo guy with my diesel stuff I absolutely love this. My plan has always been to supercharger my 265, but I need to build the vehicle that goes around it first.

I'll grab some pictures - I've been meaning to take some of the tranny anyway. I know the engine and transmission combo was pulled from a Desoto - so that is why I am assuming its the Desoto version of the transmission. The head is an obvious addition - its got an "OK" but older coat of red paint on it with the lettering on the "Spitfire" ground flat instead of being painted. I did come up with 4 3/4" stroke - but am not going to swear that I got a fantastically accurate measurement. I'm going to try and get it up on the stand this weekend and begin dissassembly - once I pop the head off it will be easier to measure the stroke and get an accurate number.

that make playing with engines worthwhile! I've been searching for a "mock-up" engine to build my intake and header setup while I go through the actual motor that I am going to use for my daily driver project to help save some time. So I keep watching the dreaded Ebay hoping to find a long block engine close to home, or cheep enough to ship and a couple of weeks ago I bought one - it looked mostly complete in the pictures and the only thing that concerned me was that it was a long engine - so after I verified thats what it was I stopped looking at the pictures and asking questions.I I won the auction with a single $100 bid. I got my purchase home through a a friend that was passing through the area with a pick up and hadn't had time to really look at it until earlier this week. Its a "new" block that was never stamped with the engine number, with a relatively clean looking "Spitfire" head on it, full flow oil filter - and I think its 265ci by checking the stroke with a piece of wire. There was also a transmission included with the engine that I wrote off initially as a three speed - but I think its actually an Desoto M6 "Tip-Toe" transmission. I have no idea what I'm going to do with it yet. Yep I'm going to call this one a victory.

After a little Google search and a couple of minutes of reading I think you might be correct. I'll snap some pictures tonight when I get home so someone to confirm. It sounds like a pretty interesting little transmission - but not some oddity that I really want in my pickup.

Well - I didn't get any pics, my camera is dead. I would assume mine is a fluid drive unit due to the length of the bell housing (very deep with a clutch lever back near the transmission). It has a solenoid with another "device" right beside it, plus a pressure sensor in the top of the case near the solenoid. On the driver's side of the case there is a round cover with half a dozen bolts holding it on- probably 8" or so in diameter. there is a small drum brake on the output of the transmission. But all in all - it doesn't really match anything that I have seen pictures of in this thread. It seams to be much more compact in length (other than the stretched out bell housing). I looked and only saw one casting number on the case (could have missed another one - it needs cleaned bad and I didn't spend a long time looking), but it didn't clearly say R7 or R10 - I neglected to write it down which doesn't help you guys help me. I'll try and get some pics tomorrow with a charged camera and take a bit longer to look for casting numbers. I would love to ID this thing and get it put up for sale - I have no use for it and I am sure that someone else does. Jason

Is there a list of ID numbers and where to look on the transmissions for them? I recently acquired another "long" engine out of a Desoto that included a transmission - I never looked at the transmission until I got it home and I know there is at least one electric solenoid on the side of it - and I thought there is two (but it could be my memory - I might be young, but have too much chit going on...). I believe it to be out of a 53' or a 54' Desoto based on what I was told by the previous owner. Maybe I need to head down to the shop and snap a picture....

Long term plans for my 265 engine include an SN60 blower - talked with John Erb about it a few weeks ago - but that is going to have to come later since I am doing so much with the engine at the moment that I want it running and dialed in before I add another variable. I figure a 265 Chrysler Industrial with triple Stromberg 81s on my own custom intake setup for good distribution to run them in a progressive setup is as much as I want to get into for this winter with the engine considering I am building a full chassis for the truck to sit on to get all the features that I want. (IFS, disc brakes, lower ride height, etc....). I know its not as original as some would like to see - but I plan on using this truck as a fair weather daily driver with the flathead engine - and I put over 600 miles a week on a vehicle just for work if I don't go anywhere... Check out this sweet supercharged Packard 8: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4RNs-NDN2UM Jason

I have been wanting to do a frame swap under my B-series for a while - but my problem is I want modern day ride with the flathead 6 still under the hood. Everytime I measure it out I come up with a clearance problem with the engine and the steering rack (even with a heavily modified oil pan). That is me taking some liberties with mounting some of the components for instance - mounting the engine and transmission slightly higher in relationship to the cab than how it would have came from the factory. All that being said - is anyone running any of these IFS kits with the factory power plant sill in place - or has everyone went the route of the V8? I want to maintain the flathead (actually a 265 Chyrsler Industrial) - but really want better ride, brakes, handling, etc...

Actually the last time I used this method was on my 1934 D!

I always throw diesel fuel down every spark plug hole and let it set overnight - then rig up a grease gun with the same fitting as a spark plug thread and pick a cylinder with both valves close - start pumping and stop when the valves open or you get to the bottom of the stroke. Refill all the cylinders with diesel and pick another hole and repeat. You'll get it loose pretty quick and easy with that method.

Pete - I just want to say that I hoep things get better for you. Your website and videos is what has convinced me to hot rod a 265 and toss in one of my pickups. It will be a long journey for me because anything worth doing is worth doing right, but your car was one of the inspirational stepping stones on my path. Thank you for that. Jason Hoffman

Perhaps this will help you: http://www.canadapost.ca/cpotools/apps/far/personal/findARate?execution=e2s1 http://www.usps.com/tools/calculatepostage/welcome.htm Now you just need to measure the item and figure out the box size, estimate the weight, add a couple of dollars for packing material, and send the shipping estimate to the person that asked.

Just so I understand: Your upset because people looking for parts ask for a price and shipping costs - and then they don't go any farther than asking the question?

I'm not worried.

Very cool! One of things I want to do in the next couple of years is jump on Route 66 and go all the way to the coast - end to end. From Chicago all the way to Santa Monica.