chrismfischer

Just had my gearbox rebuilt by http://www.prosteering.com/ in Portland, OR. Tim is the fellow to speak with. Mine is a 1947 1/2 ton dodge, and gearbox was shot. Adjustment screw was in as far as it would go so no help there. So all new gears, bushings, bearings installed. About $500 and they had parts in stock.....shipping is stiff - USPS $75 each way from Texas. Waiting to receive and install and can't wait to see the difference.

Merle, thanks for clearing that up! Really sets my mind at ease. Just for grins, if anyone knows what the expected 3rd gear ratio should be in my 3 speed tranny, please advise. I want to calculate expected engine crank rpm vs speed while waiting to test it with a tach. Then I'll know what to expect once I've got steering back in and can drive it. Incidentally, I shopped around and found Pro Steering in Portland, OR had best price to rebuild my steering gearbox. Total rebuild including new gears for about $500. They even had the gears in stock. Can't wait to see how much better it steers. After adjustment I still had 4+ inches of slack in my steering wheel despite a new front end, so it has been very tricky to keep it between the ditches. Thanks to all who have replied. Great learning experience for me and I really appreciate your time and wisdom. Chris

Ok, I'm back. I found no additional casting numbers or stamped numbers on my 3rd member (no jokes here, please). Jacked up rear so both tires off the ground. Spun one tire, the other spun in opposite direction. Then I chocked one tire, and spun the crankshaft 10 revolutions. The Free tire turned approximately 5.65 revolutions. Did it twice, same result. Does that mean I have a differential gear ratio of 10/5.65 or 1.77 : 1 ? That seems like an outrageously low ratio. If that's true, it implies that if my engine rpms are truly high at cruising speed, my tranny must be geared with a high-high ratio. Next I will buy a tach and test out engine rpm vs speed. Unfortunately, I'm waiting to get my steering gear box back, so I cant test it until I get the steering box reinstalled in the next couple weeks. I'll update once Ive done that. Question to ponder: so what is a max cruising rpm on a flathead I6, without fear of longterm engine damage?

Thanks everybody! I will check again near oil plug for a ratio, and do the tire/driveshaft spin test too and update. Need to get a tach to see if my ears are deceiving me on the high rpm sense I'm getting at 40 mph + (gps speed).....speedo reads about 29 at 40 mph true speed btw.

Still trying to determine my differential gear ratio and type. Ok, here's some pics of the differential (attached). It's a Banjo type diff, which I read automatically makes it a 8 3/4" diff. Has 6 nut/studs on driver side, 5 on the passenger side (11 total holding center unit in). Note the pics showing the casting numbers, also the number stamped on the top of the diff, which appears to be "354" (?). Can anyone tell me the gear ratio given this info?

Thanks everyone for your replies. I would like to keep everything as stock as possible, and I just redid brakes so they are fine. I kinda like having the old stuff the way it was. So, I would prefer to keep the axle and change the gears if that is do-able. Btw, the new Coker tires are over sized and did help, but any larger would rub the fenders. Please help me on these questions: 1. How do I determine the current diff ratio? 2. Exactly what parts would I need to rebuild the diff with lower gear ratio? 3. Any ideas on where I can find those parts? Thanks again, and appreciate the compliments on the truck. It proudly displays a Go Mountaineers! Plate on the rear and a 1946 WVa license plate in honor of Dad who was a died in the wool West Virginian and Mountaineer grad. Chris Fischer

I have a beeeeeutiful 1946 1/2 ton dodge pickup. Inherited from Dad, who is passed, and taught youngest son to drive in it. He will get it when I croak. I've rebuilt engine, brakes, steering gear box, etc.... And it drives wonderful. Only issue: has a 3 speed tranny and is so low geared that 50 mph feels like the Rpm's are excessive. I would really like to give it a lower gear ratio. What's the best way to accomplish this? I'm thinking a new differential with lower ratio is the answer, but I don't know anything about diffs. Can someone explain what I would need to buy to make that happen? I can check the diff casting numbers if that helps. Im not sure it's the original rear axle to begin with. I'm hoping a new set of gears can be installed in the current axle. If so, is there a a place you can direct me to to acquire the gears please? Btw, I don't want to drive the truck at high speeds. I just want to shift less and not over rev the I6. Thanks! And please call me at 713 817 0528 if you want to discuss instead of doing the endless message thing. Chris Fischer in Kingwood, Texas

Hey guys, new to the forum. This place is great! I have a 46 1/2 ton pickup with sloppy steering. Bought drag link repair kit from Andy B for both ends. No instructions, just parts. I have 3 questions: 1. Below is a pic of the parts for one end. I assume the exact same parts are used for each end: Can someone please confirm that? Based on an excellent instruction sheet from another post here (below), the parts go in differently for the steering end versus the axle end. http://p15-d24.com/topic/36279-mopar-drag-link-end-installation-instruction-sheet-from-1944/?hl=%2Bdrag+%2Blink+%2Binstruction 2. My drag link is the middle one pictured in the lower diagram (page 2). Can someone tell me which end of the drag link is on the left (steering end or axle end?) 3. Note that in my parts picture, one cup has a smaller diameter cup than the other: Can you please tell me which cup goes where? Or does it matter? Thanks a million!! Chris

sorry - see below for post