Bryan

Interchange manual. Weird, says "all interchange" under 550.

More Information for REMY 25011 (rockauto.com) 1950 PLYMOUTH DELUXE 3.6L 218cid L6 Starter Motor | RockAuto

You wouldn't think so. Rock Auto?

Looks original.

Will do when I do mine.

That's for a universal 12VDC starter switch. Ebay had more info than NAPA. https://www.ebay.com/p/1630301666 Was interested in the solenoid.

Y'all should get patents before a certain person copies it and starts selling them on Ebay..?

Probably the block top is tapered. It is progressive from front to back. What fooled me at first was the deck is perfectly flat. Didn't think about it not being level. I tired to keep things constant by using the same rod and piston. Any guess at why the #5 is higher at the rear (with same rod & piston)? Would suggest the #5 crank journal is not parallel to top.

What model # and brand is the solenoid? Humor me. Because when I first looked for a solenoid, Rock Auto, O'Reilly etc all listed this as the correct one for a 1948 Dodge, but IT WAS WRONG -> was 12V. https://p15-d24.com/topic/56791-horn-relay-dimmer-switch-solenoid-to-buy-or-not/?do=findComment&comment=610811 This is correct, a 6V solenoid. What I actually bought. https://p15-d24.com/topic/56791-horn-relay-dimmer-switch-solenoid-to-buy-or-not/?do=findComment&comment=610813

That made me check my block . Somewhere, you or someone else mentioned that there could be a difference in height from front to back. Glad I did check. I used one of the older 48 Dodge pistons with the rings off, and a # 1 rod. It measured 1.5730" from top of pin hole to top of piston. Just like my VPW NOS pistons which were between 1.5700 & 1.5750. Well, the D46 block top is straight (flat) as I knew, but lower at rear than at front. #1 piston - .012 clearance, #3 piston - .009, # 5 piston - .003. This was at the tightest spot, a model number embossed on piston top near middle. The pistons are slightly domed on a 1" circle in the middle. Even if I sanded the tops perfectly flat, still would have #1 piston - .016, #3 piston - .013, # 5 piston - .006. One funny thing is that the #5 piston seemed higher at the rear than 1 & 3.

Maybe it's the realization that people can do what they want with their cars. Not everybody has the money/time to overhaul a flathead, if you have another good engine it might be the most economical thing to do.

Sorry it didn't work out. Had a few things go that way. I just bought the modern adapter stuff and said to heck with it. I'm down near Chesterfield.

Yes, probably rotational play. Service manual doesn't say anything, just that the pin is a tight fit on the shaft end. Doesn't mention play of the buttons and in the track. Most important is the pin is a press fit on the shaft end and has to be equal distance .006 accuracy.

The translation is not working out. Bridge is the road structure crossing over a river. Engine is motor (what pulls the car). Either oil in the transmission, or oil in the rear end (round thing between the rear wheels) might be what you are asking?

The 240 is the same block and came in some Ford cars. Should have the same reliability. The 300 only came in trucks.

It would probably work to shorten the pins instead of the buttons on the ends if the buttons slip over the pins. The buttons are what are contacting the slot (ditch) and would need to be smooth and even. I just went and bought all the conversion stuff.

Mine doesn't have the bolt holes in the rear of the block to take the plate. It uses the 2 piece rubber insert Mopar 2084325 or BestGasket 3675. Trying to find on the rear main seals how much the seal lip is touching the journal. Slightly deflected or pushed back almost parallel?

Redrill new holes?

James, did you ever find the diameter of the 3675 seal lip vs the diameter of the journal it rides on? Or whatever seal you bought, the lip to lip diameter on the halves?

You mean you couldn't get any electrons from the ground? ?

Got to feeling better so I went outside and measured the filter and canister for my 48 Dodge. Impact wrench saved the day again getting the nut to come off.. This isn't to discuss bypass vs full flow filters. Just to show what I measured for mine in case it helps others. Filter was a metal can perforated with holes. No brand name or number. 3.8" wide. 4.09" rim to rim length. 4.23" length from gasket to gasket in middle. The gasketed hole in the top was .59" (wallowed out) that fit on the canister shaft that measured .567" at the top end. Couldn't get to the plate at the end of the shaft on the bottom, but the print it made on the filter bottom gasket -> inner hole .68" w, outer rim imprint 1.0" diameter. The outer gasket for the canister was rubber, .07" thick and .4" wide. On the canister top lid the gasket had a .25" wide surface that it could sit flat on. But the top of the can that the lid fit on had a flat surface of only .143" for the gasket to sit on. The lid (where the gasket fit) was 4.68" wide (about 4 11/16). The canister width is 4.2" wide near the top. Don't think it would be good for the filter to be much bigger than 3.8" w, because oil would have to have some room to spread around the outside of the filter as it came in the side inlet. The filter didn't look like it could be much longer than what I measured. The rim edge was getting close to the canister edge. Maybe .1-.2 more but that would be cutting it close. The plate on the lid is spring loaded and goes up and down about 1/4" without pushing the nut up off the top. One thing about the filter at the top. Some have mentioned that the top gasket hole would have to fit tight on the shaft. I don't think so. The upper spring plate on the lid, that presses on the filter gasket at the top has a 1.0" hole in the middle, and the plate is 1.49" diameter (wide). The top filter gasket is wider. You could use a filter with up to a 1.0" hole in the top with a wide gasket. BUT, you'd have a harder time keeping the filter centered in the canister (oil needs to flow around the filter as it also passes thru to the center, where it goes out the bottom). Looks like the filter has to be sealed at top and bottom (the gaskets), and oil passes from outside the filter to the center. Has a hole at the top of the shaft in the middle. Reckon oil goes into this out the bottom?

With the battery cable disconnected, there still should be continuity between 2 ends of the same cable. Be careful with using an ohm meter to check resistance (continuity) with any power 9Battery) on the system. You can mess up your meter. Will it start normally with you sitting in the car (without the remote)? Did you mean checking across the solenoid to the starter or checking the cable?

1992 Dodge Dakota w 3.9L V6. Bought from my brother for $700. Overhauled motor, new rack&pinion w power steering pump, overhauled rear end w limited slip 3.9. Haul trash, rock, brush and pick up car parts.

No but good you caught it. Anytime they start getting pissed that you don't do something exactly like they want it, watch out. Sounds highly suspicious. Bryan

Since I'm still recovering from sciatic nerve problems in my leg and having the small skin cancer taken off my head, thought I'd take a few pics of the galleries with my recently found (6 yr old) borescope. Dang, after the machine shop block cleaning, me cleaning and 2nd pressure wash, at the microscopic level still looks like crap. Picture Order: Main gallery, side gallery, relief valve (notice seat), better lighted side g, side g.