Bryan

Bought from this guy on Ebay before. Haven't installed yet but seems okay quality. Fits 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 Chrysler Dodge Desoto Plymouth Gas Fuel Tank NEW | eBay $345.00

How to waste an hour on something simple. ? Was fitting my 48 Dodge crankshaft in the 53 block, just to make sure it fit, wasn't bent, etc. Reminded me to clean the main caps and bolts up. Okay. Fit the first 3 mains, fine. Tighten down. No problem. Get to the rear main, won't go down all the way. Tap lightly, nope. Take it off, check the edges. Clean a burr off. Back on. Nope. Repeat 3 -4 times. Take bearing off to see if that's it. Nope. I'll try the main cap from the 48, to see if that will tighten up and close the gap. IT HAS A GASKET ON IT, THE GAP IS FOR THE GASKET..NOW I REMEMBER...?? ? Need a head banging emoji. Sometimes you just do stupid stuff.

Ahem..? ?..

But drilling up to a 1/2" before the mains T junction wouldn't be a way to save cost. Either drilling it to .26 all the way, or .33 all the way would be cheaper. Drilling 2 times would be more. I think it might be more of a problem at the factory. Someone drilled it short of the junction. That's why I'm hoping other people that have either overhauled a lot of blocks, or have one sitting around could look and let me know.

Wonder if you should not have it pressure tested either? More like leak tested. What if these guys pump it up and it starts ballooning?

Cotton braided wires are also available on Ebay, shop called Ton's Performance. Company on Internet called Brillman.

Just sent him a PM via the forum. Also sent an email after noticing he doesn't post here often.

Used one flow calculator to look at difference between .26" dia and .315" dia.

They have various but I didn't ask about them. Some of them (Delta) are posted on that PowerWagon Advertiser site I mentioned. He was talking about a "marine cam" grind but mentioned even that might be more than I wanted. This was after the fact since I didn't even know they had mine til they were finished. Price includes FEDEX back to me, but didn't include the $21.50 flat rate box I used to send it.

Thank you Lord, they have my camshaft!! Delta just called me. I thought it was USPS Washington state at first. They've already ground my cam and resurfaced 8 lifters. $ 164.28 They kept it per specs, making sure exhaust lift/durations are the same, intake lift/durations are the same. Refinished the bearing journals/cleaned up. I had told them on the request sheet didn't want to increase the duration or lift to one of these 4500 rpm types. Requested a spec sheet..see what I get. I AM HAPPY. 1 1/2 weeks messing with USPS..was about to put in a claim.

That's what I'm understanding. It's hard to find basic info without them getting into a bunch of complex equations. And if there is a restriction in the line before that, it affects flow also. I ordered a cobalt drill bit and 8 mm ball hone.

Thought this was interesting. I need to look at the main bearing opening sizes. And look at the effect of branches. Reducing Flow vs. Reducing Pressure - Which is it? | CTG (ctgclean.com)

In the search box type 3 words color change speedometer. While in the box, look down at the open menu tab about mid way. You have to click/check the "all of the search term words" . I wish someone would make that the default. "Any of the search term words" is the default now, and won't find anything.

My brother always mentioned having the blood sacrifice to find lost parts or get something to work. Usually it was his own.

Thanks. That's the issue. If I had more information, past tech notes, enough people's info, etc I'd feel better. Presently just going on info from my old block, this one, and the fluid mechanics stuff I posted. I even asked the Freewheeling Tony Smith on his FB page if he's encountered that. No answer yet. It is notable that the holes at the main journals still have the front & rear larger, # 2 & 3 smaller. All cam journal holes are small. Sense to me would be either to have all the passages large to the T junction of the mains, or just large to the front and back.

Because the present situation does not make engineering sense from everything I've read. I bought this block from someone and don't have any experience with any problems. Was wondering if you read what I've already posted. I'm sure there was a reason that the block was 1/4 full of casting sand. There's a reason my old Fluid drive was reinstalled with 2 of 8 bolts cut off. If 10 people on the forum stated their blocks were just like mine I would be more inclined to leave it alone. Presently I know my old 48 Dodge/49 Plymouth block was drilled large all the way to the camshaft. It's all I know.

I think you have to braze cast iron. And depending on exactly where it is would be the issue. Near one of the mains or the oil gallery - wouldn't do it.

Somewhere I've seen a post about someone ballooning the top of the radiator by using the wrong pressure cap on a non-pressurized radiator.

Found some measuring "tongs" caliper I'm going to order on Monday to get some idea of the wall thickness on # 2 & 3. Wonder if a regular metal drill can bore out a passage 1/2" deep? Have 2 1/2" of shaft to hold the bit in line.

Pictures how a dried up one looks.

Is that an office fluorescent or LED light? Imagine it's on all night or do you have motion detection?

Will do, if I ever get my cam back. Thanks. If you have a block could you look if the side oil passages change diameter going to the cam bearings? My 48/49 block is the same .33" size all the way back. The 53 Dodge block goes from .33 to .25 right before the vertical junction to the mains. I'm trying to first see if it is unique to my block or standard after a certain year.

Decreasing the gallery size has a large increase in resistance and decrease in flow. Flow is what lubricates and cools bearings, not pressure.

Usually once it seats hand tight, then I always did a 1/4 to 1/2 turn where it was snug with one hand on a socket wrench. Not holding to the very outer end. Not as hard as you can pull with one hand. https://www.sparkplugs.com/plug-torque-settings-2