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Bryan

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Everything posted by Bryan

  1. I was coated head to toe in coconut oil which kept me from getting eatin' up with redbugs, mosquitoes and deer flies. Was on a piece of cardboard, but still got dirty from rust & dirt falling off underneath. Wore safety glasses but no mask. With a mask it kept fogging up. Wasn't grinding. Had it stable with a lot of blocks and jack stands. Wish the neighbors there did have machinery but no luck. Last thing I have to do is pull the motor up. Going to tie the hoist off on the upper side with rachet straps, and pull it up the ramp with a come along, Might have my brother with me this time. Need a guide while I back the trailer ramp up under the car.
  2. I've bought smaller items at Vic's Garage and it worked out. Shop around. By "interior cabin door panel sky roof firewall and full of other room" do you mean the door panel upholstery, under dash panel and headliner? Bryan
  3. I looked through those. A lot had no stop or catch. Some listed the ratio improvement. When I saw 7:1 and got to thinking about 1000/7 was still 142 lbs. Wasn't sure how hard that would be. Just went with a 20 ft chain come along.
  4. Bought me a 20 ft chain come along with 1.5 ton capacity. Figure it might be handy in the future. Wish I'd paid attention to the length when I bought the 4 ton come along a few years back. Only pulls about 2 1/2 feet.
  5. 92 Dodge Dakota with a 3.9L V6 and limited slip differential. The hoist legs have to extend under the car to get it over the motor. To pull it directly backwards I'd have to cut more trees down. That last one wore me out.
  6. Went and measured again. Truck bed is 6 1/2 ft long , has a little less than 4ft useable width (wheel wells). The hoist legs to rear are a little less than6 ft, with a little over 3 ft max width. It would have to stand upright to fit the truck bed. I can't lift it assembled. I'd have to take the long legs off and the boom off to get it out/in the truck. On the ground once I have the motor lifted, with the turning radius and length I'd have to withdraw it fully loaded, it would probably take 2 pieces of 4x8ft plywood. And the car is on a slope. Would need about $50-60 worth of plywood. Expensive now. Will probably stick to the trailer and buy a longer pulling come along (which unlike the plywood I can use again).
  7. It's in the woods with soft ground. The hoist is the length of the truck bed, but I could fold it up and lay it down. I could buy some thick plywood as a base, but would have to be enough to pull the hoist back and then rotate it around to place the motor in the truck bed. When I had the empty motor block in the truck bed, I could move it with difficulty. This would be the whole motor and clutch + FD. If I use the truck, I'd have to use my wood ramps to slide it off the truck with it laying down, get it on the plywood, and pull it upright. I''ll measure the height of the trailer bed again and see. Hoping to have the trailer ramp almost parallel to trailer floor. Plus pulling it into the trailer with a ratchet come along. Just my present one only pulls 2 ft.
  8. Today was testing to see how I will use trailer, found I need more pull straps. The come along I have only pulls about 2 1/2 ft. I need minimum 4 ft. I need to raise the ramp slightly as I back the ramp under the car, but found I need to lift it so it's slightly less than 180 to trailer floor. But the straps at about a 45 degree angle would be in the way. Need to get the ramp slightly up, then attach the other straps (green line in pic). That's if I am by myself. If my brother comes, He can just lift the ramp up and I'll attach straps. Given the weight of the motor I'll have to put logs or blocks under the ramp supports (not on the mesh). I found that you DON'T want the engine hoist wheels to get off the end of the ramp. They turn sideways and lock. Had some spare rebar that I might use to keep the hoist from rolling back if I have to readjust the come along. Need to order more straps. Probably middle of next week.
  9. It was more my bad experience with the crank nut and using a long breaker bar, then moving it with an impact wrench. Was afraid with the highest setting I'd wring some off, but kept at it alternating with the mid & high setting.
  10. Next time I'll be ready to pull the motor. Got everything off. Starter, oil cannister, oil lines, linkage, anything that could get in the way. Motor mount on top section was rotten. When I took the legs loose at the bottom it just pulled off. Loosened 2 head bolts to attach the chain and got carried away. Went ahead and loosened all of them. NONE BROKE. The last 3 in the middle on the side row near the exhaust manifold were a bear. Used 700 ft/lbs setting on the impact wrench. That barely done it. Used 400 ft/lbs several times, kept trying the highest setting a few times between. Finally went whole hog on it and they came loose. Found a good speedometer cable and hopefully a good emergency brake cable. Worked on it from 7 am to 11 am. Might wait til Tuesday to try pulling it. I have to arrange the hoist on the trailer, secure it and attach a come-along to pull it towards the front. Also going to rig straps to the ramp and lift them up a few inches off the ground, so I can back the ramp under the car, to get the hoist close enough.
  11. Glad I could help. That's what I got for mine, whenever I get it running.
  12. That's like me and the pressure washer sticking it in the core plug holes to clean the eater passages. Pushing the colored heads back is how you remove them. A quick bump and I was 15 minutes fishing out the yellow head from between 2 cylinders.
  13. Ahem, blocks are adjusted. Got the transmission pulled. Tried to get everything ready to bring the hoist but it got too hot (1pm). Was a lot cooler under the car. Now I know why dogs sleep under them. Wanted to get the fender off and also remove the starter, but next time. Nasty work. Got dirty but took a selfie.
  14. Yep, when I get back under there I'll use jack stands at that point or change the block to vertical. I do listen.
  15. Might want to call the guy up you bought it from and ask him what oil he was using.
  16. Well, got the tree cut down and moved today. Tried to cut it flush to ground, but on the backside it had grown around small rocks. Started sparking. Had to widen the path so one day I'll get the trailer back there.
  17. In my opinion, besides the motor & transmission condition, the condition of small chrome parts inside is something to look for. You can sand and paint a metal dash and metal door trim but getting parts rechromed can get expensive (bumpers and grills too). Replacing crumbling steering wheels is expensive.
  18. It's not the AB ones only..it's the Melling M37 brand. Think Sniper has referred to the Freewheeling Tony Smith post on Facebook enough how to take apart and prep new oil pumps to help prevent that problem.
  19. That's good. Get something near home that runs and you can look up under it. Facebook has a marketplace that you can search for vehicles in your area.
  20. Was my mother's car. Bottom pans and some side frames underneath rusted. Point is, that it can look nice and still have a lot of work needed underneath.
  21. As said before, look underneath. I bought all the floor panels, rockers and trunk panels for my 58 Dodge Coronet (which I may never get to) and it was $1,000 - 1200. That's just the parts. Check if the rear seat back under the window is still flexible. Sometimes the heat/sun will dry them out. Also that at least the steering wheel rim is solid. My 58 steering wheel just crumbled apart. Bought another one..ouch. Flat Head motors probably $3-4K for a shop to do an overhaul. If that motor isn't running it could get expensive. Don't get into a hurry.
  22. Thanks. Will do next time I'm there. I kept wondering which way would be best. Was too pooped to think straight. Probably will go again on Monday. I need to clear more brush, have to back a 6 1/2 x 14 trailer in there. Engine hoist won't fit on the truck.
  23. Long process of pulling the engine from the car in the woods at my father's. Got the car up on blocks. Had to get the blocks from the barn about 100ft away, using a dolly. Pulling the floor jack around in soft dirt and pine straw wore me out. Next time taking a chisel for some of the fender bolts.
  24. Sounds like me. Got 4 hours in today jacking the car up in the woods, moving blocks. Could hardly get back in the truck. Puling a floor jack around in pine straw is hard work.
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