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Stopped at a nieghbors and he was finally home. This is a B1 or B2 fire truck originally with 1200 total miles. Everything except the wrecker part is bone stock. With original rubber all around

My father was into those hit and miss engines as well as machining. Built a bunch of miniatures of them, took them to shows and would have the little ones sitting there running.

Well I stopped atime a local guy who has an old firetruck with 1200 miles on it and has the original factory jack WITH box....suffice to say I think mine is stock and here is a pic of his ....he has a B1/2 but they are definitely cousins.

You need to see the shipping charges to the UK + customs + 20% tax.

hi, I started my plymouth 1948 coupe build, or better said first a disassemble project off body, chassis, engine and axles. Today i lifted the body of the chassis, at the pront a pillar area where on both sides two hidden bolts ans i cut out a piece of the floor bodywork for reaching them, i think a former owner welded a new floor a reparation but did it not the right way took a little time to find out the reason of not lifting . I cleaned the chassis with high pressure water, the insie with a so called sewer rat ( an aid for the pressurewasher ) that did a good job, a lot of dirt, little stones and straw ( mice ) came out the chassis Next job is to clean the cooling system of the engine, i will remove the plugs for better cleaning. Dan

Hello everyone I am a new member. I have been restoring Hit & Miss engines for years and have a nice collection. I was at a farm auction last week and found this 1946 Dodge WF32. The body is in great shape and so far I have not found any rot. The engine is free and I don't think it will be a problem to get it running. The steering linkage seems tight but the brakes do no work. Going to clean all the mouse nests out and then pull all the wheels and start with the brakes. This will be my first truck restore, I think is was repainted at sometime in its life and I am going to leave it the way it is. My plan right now is to make it mechanically sound.

Hey P15 fans! anyone know where I can go to get gasket material for all of the windows? Not all of them need it, but it would be a good idea to get enough in case I need it in the future as well. Also, anyone know how to remove aged old oily greasy guck from under the hood? A good solvent or would it be best to hire someone who knows how to detail clean under the hood? thanks for any help!

More information would help. Idling in neutral? Just changed the points to electronic or was more involved ( what other parts?) Does it do it throughout the rpm range or just at idle? How long has it been doing this and did it start all at once or gradually get worse. What have you tried and did any of it make it better or worse?

Tesla yes...others would still be scheming a manner to make off with the patent

I have a 9000 lb. Eagle 2 post , model MTP-9F that was installed in August, 2011. It has a floor plate and 113" posts. The floor plate is no problem for me but may be if you are changing transmissions.I have 12' ceilings and my Dodge Wayfarer has plenty of clearance at full lift. There is approximately 6' clearance under car. The lift is symmetrical, but I don't have a problem getting in or out of car and I have sizable gut. I put split foam pipe insulation on upright where door would hit. Lift is 220v and requires 20amp svc, but I have 30. Also, I have Dalton I drive automatic door opener which has no center rail. Something to consider if u have automatic doors. I have had no problems with the lift and am very happy with it and feel safe working under it. I paid $2000 for it new. That was for lift, delivery and install. Came from Greensboro, N.C. to Va. Beach, Va. Bob

Wouldn't Tesla have perfected open air power transmission by 1948?

I continue to encourage my grand kids to take an interest in history and historical events. These kids are attending the same elementary school that I went to where I learned all about the history of Indiana and Fort Wayne. Seems such things are no longer taught in the public schools. In the days I attended these schools we had one black and white TV and one rotary dial telephone in the house. Last count there were 7 TV's in there house and every kid has there own click click mobile device. It is easier for them to play shoot em up click games than to learn about there surroundings.

I am a board member of a small town Historical Society and my wife is a board member of another town, it sucks how much work and money is put into these property's from usually a small number of ACTIVE members to only get a few visitors a year. I have no idea how to peak interest of the next generations.

just looked in my photo folder and I had taken pics of my procedure...while this may or may not be what you looking for...once covered I do not think anyone but you will be the wiser. the plywood is 1/2 thick yellow foam is of dense variety in 5/16 thick black overlay foam is 1/8 dense and found at arts and craft store... once the wood is cut, glue on the yellow foam flush...then overlay that with the black, next add the outer and inner thin black foam side pieces, they should be just a tad proud of the top of the black flat surface to allow you to carefully sand a slight roll on the edges...cover in the material to match you interior... am sure not the only way but was easy do it at home for myself ...good luck no matter how you proceed. note..first photo could it be a gesture albeit subliminal, to those that naysay my approach.....enjoy....lol truly nothing of the sort was intended here....

sounds like this may be the classic one size fits all but fits some better scenario...while not having first hand hands-on of a Scarebird product...was not their original setup for these cars the use of the original hub and removing the rivets and drums for disc mounting?...In the beginning this was not a reported issue on Scarebird and the biggest single factor at that time was the scare tactic advertising and outright slandering of other kits....on my memory, I have to admit..this was back in the days of "Norm Coupe"

tape a thin cardboard between the bolt holes using blue painters tape above the fender line...once the bolts are started and not quite snug..slip out the cardboard as you start snugging up the bolts...be sure your trim if being used is in place also..a cereal box makes good durable protection without being overly thick..

I also dealt with this same issue. I contacted Scarebird with my concerns and was given the same response he gave you. If the hub was designed with a bit more material on the inboard side it would allow the seal to ride in the correct place machined on the spindle. I haven't got the 49 Wayfarer on the road yet so I can't tell if the seal is going to cause issues.

I suspect the reason for the castings instead of stamped steel is cost. The cost of tooling. T J Richards had to tool parts for a few thousand cars while Chrysler of Canada was for a little over ten thousand units for grilles and around thirty thousand for items shared by Plymouth and Dodge. Making a mould is less expensive than tooling for a steel stamping. And you do not need large, heavy machines to stamp the steel into the shape you want. Any foundry could make parts from moulds. For Australia, the cars built there were not built by Chrysler, but by the distributor that had the rights to market Chrysler Corporation cars and trucks in Australia. The distributor imported chassis from North America, contracted a firm to build the bodies (T J Richards, Holden, and others over the years), assemble all the parts into a car or truck and market them. The distributor thus had to acquire and maintain a dealer network, keep a supply of parts on hand for their dealers, and supply the dealers with cars and trucks. Which is why there are differences in the equipment on Australian cars. In 1951 Chrysler Corporation took over the distributor and T J Richards to form a new subsidiary, Chrysler Australia. If you look closely at Andy's 1940 Dodge you will see it is an updated 1939 Dodge body. The windows in the doors, the double square rear window, the trunk lid and the contouring of the rear all are 1939 styling points. T J Richards had to pay for the tooling for the body and thus used the 1939 body through 1948 in order to cover the costs. And use castings for short run items like headlamp doors. Bill Vancouver, BC

It's been so long since I did my floor I don't remember exactly the sizes I used. From A pillar to B pillar I used a section of 1 by 2 or 3 rectangular tubing trimmed on the ends to fit and I think I put a plate of 1/8 where the front mounts went. My floor is made of 16 gauge material with additional rectangular tubing for structural support. It does NOT look like the factory floor nor was it intended to but the " stiffeners" look like the originals from the outside. You have to look under the truck to tell the difference. If the factory was a C channel style, you can cut a side off the rectangular or split it lengthwise or have a machine shop or someone with a metal brake bend you up a section and you trim to fit. I don't have a brake so that's what I do. Make patterns, do accurate dimensions, have them bend and do the final trim myself.

contact Scarebird for their answer and recommendation...I know you trying to draw on others who have been here before....BUT...how long will wit take for that person who may relate be before coming online to read and reply. If it looks funky and truly you have a concern...where better to get the skinny but from the source. For certain you wish proper depth seating to ensure that the seal does its jobs to protect against dirt and water intrusion..

OVEN CLEANER

I've had them on their nose and on their backs as well. On their nose, I usually sit them on 4 x 6 blocks of wood to get them off the floor a bit, On their back they sit cradled in a cart and that allows me to get to the back side of the dash panel for paint. and minimizes the area that would require overhead spraying and has great access to the front of the firewall and interior roof panels. Once those are covered, stand back up for the rest of the cab.

if you set it on the pillars and then gently tip, it'll set on the front drip rail. I think yours is further along than mine.... I would put down cardboard or old blankets

sorry for the delay, last night was "date night" with my bride 1-3 is the drivers side 4&5 pass side Don, don't look my tape is rusty is this what ya need?

I also have no need to argue. I have a 1948 Plymouth converted to 12 volts. I also have a 1948 Dodge I purchased recently, still on 6 volts with a 6 volt positive ground alternator. Both are reliable and run well. Nice thing about the 12 volt system is I can power up my GPS and charge my seldom used cell phone. On my 12 volt car I installed a 12 volt starter from a 55 Plymouth. Main reason being I discovered that not only does the starter motor run twice as fast but also the Bendix engaged the flywheel super fast and did not sound good. The 12 volt starter sounds much better. With a foot starter that would not be an issue. Many folks are happy running a 6 volt starter on 12 volts. As mentioned 12 volt starters have a green tag.I modified my original generator bracket to mount the 12 volt alternator.

Does your existing starter have a foot activated pedal or a electric relay? If it is a foot controlled starter I don't think you will find one setup for 12 volts. However as part of your upgrade (converting to 12 volts is not a restore) you can convert to a relay activated starter control. But as Young Ed said count the teeth.

Watch the teeth count on the gear. For cars they changed it after 56 so you need a 56 starter. Not sure if trucks are the same.