Leaderboard

Here is one method of mounting a master/booster in a 40. Just kind of took what was needed from the 2 assemblies and made it work to retain the factory pedal look.

Too bad you are not closer. All those parts are unfortunately on the derelict engine. I would give them to you if you were to come up here and remove them yourself. As it is, they are currently buried under parts removed from both the Plymouth and the Lexus. More than shown in pic as more is being added every week! Planning any northern expeditions soon? John

How long ago was it running the last time? If you are not very mechanically inclined, you might want to invite a buddy, familiar with old cars, to get it going. Depending upon the current condition, attempting to start it might mess things up even worse. If you watch some of those "will it run" tube videos - do not do what those people are doing. Most of them are doing bad things, just for show. Since this is your family car, you don't want that 😉

That particular area I always had a bad feeling in my gut about it .... I really would not be surprised if that is where the problem is. Because I plan to change those wires and fix other possible issues at the same time .... I will never know if it were those wires, or possible grounds or other things I fix.

I should have told in what area of the engine harness I found broken wires - the reason I mentioned strand count is that the broken wires were in the areas between the engine and the firewall, or other places where they crossed from the engine to the body. That is why I did the strand count, because I was assuming that the damage was due to flexing. But the harness wrapping in those areas, and also the wire insulation itself, that was all very stiff, from the heat, I would suppose. So any shields you can fabricate would probably be a good idea.

I am reminded of what my Dad used to tell me, little boys who lie grow up to be weathermen

I believe that Then and Now Automotive can revulcanize harmonic balancers. P.S. I have moved this thread to the classified ads parts wanted area as this topic is not allowed in the general forums.

I agree with the above suggestions, but just to ensure there are no surprises, make sure your transmission is in neutral, or at least keep the clutch pedal pushed all the way in.

Try wiggling all the wires connected to the engine while it's idling (be careful!) and see if doing that makes a difference in the way it runs.

That coincides with what I found when I unwrapped the engine wire harness from the 93 T&C I scrapped out - various wires were broken, or so nearly severed that contact might have been intermittent at best. (In comparison to the wire on my P15, the strand count for a similar gauge wire is much higher on the old vehicle. I wonder when vehicle manufacturers started using lower strand-count wire, and if it was a slow transition.)

I wasted a ton of time working on a friend's 03 CTS...durn thing would randomly brick. Long story short, GM ran a ECM ground wire so short that the conductor strands pulled apart inside the insulator at a 90° turn around one of the heads without tearing the insulator...so intermittent ground path would lead to ECM shutdown. Ya might want to run some temporary grounds parallel to see if that might help.

It still sounds like a corrosion issue especially with it becoming more prevalent. What does the ground end of those sensors look like. Chrysler grounded O2 and EGR sensors to a common ground wire eyelet in later years, separate from the main battery to engine ground. I'd suggest visiting a dealership, buying a ground wire distribution schematic and hunt their grounds down as well as an ignition schematic. Schematics are available online as well. Are you still getting the same codes? The computers probably have default settings that may allow it to run, albeit poorly when receiving erratic signals.

Pull the choke out about 1/2" and step on the gas once to the floor and release. This sets the choke butterfly. Then ignition on, press the starter and crank. If there is fuel in the carb bowl it should fire nearly immediately. Then as it warms up reduce choke to full open. If it seems like it wants to to stall give it a little more gas with the throttle control. If it's been sitting for a while and the fuel in the bowl has evaporated you may need to crank it first to get the carb bowl full again, then do the start sequence. If you are not sure how far to pull out the choke cable try it once without the air cleaner installed. You will se how it snaps shut with the first gas pedal depression.

If stock you would turn the key on, give it a couple pumps of fuel, pull the choke, and then press the starter lever above the gas pedal. With that said being this old some of that could have changed depending on what people have done with it