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Cold weather related issues point me to one place to start The choke. Does it work and is it adjusted properly? Next place I would look is the exhaust flapper, does it work properly?

Clean, dry and properly torqued is the recipe for a proper install. We have had several discussions here about the weakness of the design and key failures. In my past experience have seen those keys loosen, even shear. But in every case the shaft had been treated to a coating of oily stuff of some kind. That invites rotation which will damage the key fit. This dates back to the 60s when I was working on these things at least weekly, usually daily. that's my story and I'm sticken to it!

And strongly suggest checking the "key" and replacing if there is any wear shown.........key material is usually sold in 12" lengths for a minimal cost, think its 5/16th from memory.....andyd

That's why women consistently outlive us.

Hi, I am new to this forum and have been reading a lot. This is a great community of classic loving people! I just purchased a 1951 Dodge truck, its a dually and I was told it was a 1.5 ton. I do not know much about it but it runs good, however brakes will definitely need some attention! Do you know if there are any disc brake kits for the front and any upgrades I can use for the master cylinder etc. Also if you have any information on this specific model can you please share, again I am new and just diving in to gain as much knowledge as I can.

Wife and I drove up to Newburyport (MA) today for some Christmas shopping and I spotted this repurposed milk truck at a restoration/hot rod shop on the edge of town. It's a shame I didn't catch it when the Ipswich Ale taps were flowing - shopping is thirsty business!

In case you want some ideas, here is a couple shots of the restoration of the Signal-Stat arrow lights I did. Nice link there ggdad1951. That is a good selection.

The tight fit between the tapered shaft and the tapered hole in the hub is what actually transmits the torque between the axle and the hub. Basically the same as your tapered quill on machine tools. The square key is mostly to get things aligned. I would be very cautious about using any lubricant on the axle taper.

The shop manuals say to use nothing at all, due to the parts being machine fitted. With that being said, after 60, 70 and 80+ years of wear, I believe the machine fit is a little worn and moisture can seep in, causing a sticky drum. I clean the shaft and drum surface with a green scrub pad then I use a little bit of grease smeared on the shaft surface then wipe it off with a clean rag. The residue (IMHO) will act as a filler and lube to keep out the moisture and crud that loves to make the drum a nightmare to remove. I believe this will aid in the drum removal process in a few years if I need to remove the drum for brake shoe replacement of brake maintenance that will eventually be required. The first time I removed the rear drums, the right took about 3 hours and the left took about a day and a half. Replaced the shoes and leaky wheel cylinders and cleaned the shaft and drum, greased the shaft and put all back together. About three years later pulled the rear drums looking for a brake fluid leak and the drums popped of with about 20 minutes of the puller and impact gun. I also cut notches in the brake adjustment stud that the nut goes on, on the back of the brake plate, so I could adjust the rear brakes using a flat head screwdriver with out pulling the drum. That worked great. I've pulled one or the other of the drums in recent years for maintenance and had no problem pulling the drums. Joe Lee P.S. reminds me I gotta pull the drums this spring to check the shoes and cylinders. been a couple of years since I checked the shoes and the pedal is riding a little low.

Yes, when I switched to my off hand to continue the whaling I about broke my shin with a near miss (not real coordinated as a lefty, lol).

cost of doing business...seller or buyer.......I pay sales tax and every purchase made....it would pain me to no end to think they are not forwarding these taxes to the property collection agency of the government. Wait until the venues like your Hershey event is FORCED to divulge every sellers address that rented a space and appropriate tax forms dispensed. And, the walls start crumbling down....

MBF and Rustyzman I agree. I did a lot of Chevy stuff in the 70's and that was so nice. Clutch fork was a piece of cake to reinstall with a new throw out bearing. Took me about 30 minutes or so to get the Dodge TOB to line up and go onto the tranny. Finished wiring the dually bed. There are a lot of lights on it. Ray J.

corner light pockets ready!

I buy bulk of ebay...have my shop riveter grinder machine..

Sadly I said goodbye to my shop manager Puma. She was with me almost 100% of this build. RIP Pumers