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While pulling out the P15 for an afternoon drive today I discovered that a few days ago an absent-minded old man had driven away from a gas pump with the gas cap sitting on the rear bumper. The poor idiot proceeded to blissfully enjoy an extended drive and in the process launched the gas cap into places unknown. What an idiot.... In case anyone needs a gas cap, a Gates 31620 is a perfect fit, it is chrome and vented. I found one at my local family-owned auto parts emporium but this part number will return some hits from online vendors. Note to self.......hold the gas cap in left hand while refueling, don't put it down anywhere.

Transmission is in. I went toe to toe with it for 4 hours. It wore me to a nub. Pix are of the all thread pieces I used to guide it home. Also finished priming the back of the cab where I replaced the rust. Back to wiring today. Ray J.

What is a run channel?

I got the last 24 crossmember to floor pan welds on the bottom, fixed a couple bad welds, and started stripping off the bad paint. It sounds solid with no rattles.

I have attached an information sheet that I received from Pay Pal regarding the dollar amount of sales that will be reported to the IRS for 2025, 2026 and 2027. So of the biggest sellers might get hit with a 1099-k form. SO make sure you track your sales, the cost of each item that initially it cost you, travel cost and any other expenses to purchase the item along with postage to ship the item food and also lodging cost. Like traveling to Hershey, the cost of a vendor site, etc. The Fed Gov't needs money so they are going after every $$$$$$$$ than they can get their hands on. So starting in 2025 I would suggest that you only deal in cash, money orders or personal check or a bank check. Do you own research on this information Rich hartung.

If you sell stuff, it is generally understood that you are expected to report it as part of your income, just as you would do with your regular W2s (for the working folks). Even if its cash. 😉

I took a look at the untouched '51 and confirmed what I had seen earlier: additional information - early B-3 hood support installation

I'll let you in on a little secret....it's happened more than once 😄

Today was somewhat of a milestone day. I installed the parking lights and got them connected, and they actually work More importantly, the task that I had been dreading for a while was assembling and installing the hood pieces. Fortunately I have a small gantry crane with an electric hoist that actually made the job somewhat anticlimactic. I think from when I first started to slide the three pieces together to where the job was done totaled about 30 minutes or so. What took the most time was figuring out which way the hood supports were supposed to be installed. I need to know which side the hood support arm goes. Is it in front of or behind the hood frame? It's getting close to the point where I need to register and insure the truck so I can drive it....legally that is

As much as that sucks (scratching the paint) it was bound to happen. At least you got it over with and it's not the side of the door! Touch it up and we won't tell anyone!

The bearing retainer gasket sets the endplay for the input shaft. A home made gasket would be OK as long as the endplay is checked. The "Best" gasket set runs around $30 on ebay, and all the seals are available from Rock Auto. Why not reseal the whole thing while it is out? For the bolt grommets, I suspect that they were molded in when new. For my transmission, I used liquid thread sealant on the threads, and black RTV under the head of each bolt. Everything clean and dry, of course. My transmission also had 2 or 3 of the lower tailshaft housing bolts "sealed" with the bolt grommets too, and I did them the same way. No signs of leaks yet.

I use a Long Breaker Bar with a 1-1/8" or 1-1/4" Socket to turn the Dog Bone on the Puller. Slowly stepping on in until POW the Drum Breaks loose. Back in the 70's when I was a poorer younger Lad I simply loosened the Castle Nuts on the Rear Axle and drove in a circle until they popped loose. I only suggest my Breaker Bar method because I believe beating the Hell out of the Dog Bone with a 5 or 6 Pound Hammer might end up breaking something - or maybe not - I just don't want to risk it.

Fully clockwise opens the flap which allows exhaust gas most direct exit. Heater core doesn't car which way flow goes. I set mine up so flap is welded in the clock wise position. I do have the heater return hose zip tied to the intake manifold. So driving in cold weather with the heater on provide s some warmth to the intake. This kind of mimics the set up of a couple of after market dual carb intake manifolds that are plumbed to accept coolant flow through the casting. OFFENHAUSER is one I think. I don't do much winter driving due to over use of salt in our area. But I have been out in 20s and 30s without problems. Depends alot on humidity also. Dual carbs draw only half of the air flow of single carb, so they might be less prone to evaporative iceing. I haven't experienced any issues with my shade tree solution. (Dual Carters on Fenton intake)

Went to a local swap meet, in mid 40 degree mist and rain. Normally lots of buyers and sellers, but the weather really thinned it out this year. Stopped by the license plate man, did some horse-trading on a nice set of ‘54 car plates and about 7 pairs of nice, newer plates. Bargained my way into a really nice set of ‘51 farm truck plates. Now, all I have to do is get the truck to look and run at least as good as the plates look.