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Thanks Sniper. I know I have a long road ahead. Brakes, fuel, glass, etc. The gas tank is my biggest concern. Haven’t researched it yet, but I don’t think it’s being reproduced. To fill it up, you have to tip the drivers seat forward. So I don’t think the truck tank will work. Anyway, I’m looking forward to getting it running and driving.

While uncommon it is not unknown for a brand new battery to be bad especially under a heavy load. And starting your car is the heaviest load it will ever see. I would put a meter on it try to start the car and see what the voltage drops down to

Keith’s Garage on YouTube. He’s a member of this forum and did a series on rebuilding a Plymouth flathead. I did my first one not long ago and if I can you can.

Assuming everything is already all cleaned and laid out and ready to assemble doesn't take more than a day and not even a really long day. There are lots of YouTube videos out there showing you how to do things. And it also depends on how detailed you want to get. I don't know what your machine shop is already done for you but it's not a really difficult job

That's the comment I was responding to. Although sometimes your battery is bad enough that just turning on the headlights is enough to make it fail. That happened with my mother-in-law's Kia. Put my meter on the battery it read about 12.7 volts had to turn on the headlights and it dropped the two and a half told her her battery was bad

Light 'er up like a Christmas tree, with a half dozen lights down each side. 😁

O/k.........I had a RHD 41 Plymouth Coupe with the 23" 201 engine and after checking the various options re the Langdon, Fenton and other brand headers I was about 99.9% certain that none would clear the steering box so I obtained the different factory cast iron manifolds and modified them and had the local blacksmith weld them up as shown..........I ended up having to sell both the car & engine so can't give a final report......as you have a Chrysler Royal which is essentially a 53/54 Plymouth chassis with the Chrysler/DeSoto engine you MAY have sufficent space to install the cast iron headers but they are an expensive gamble........I've attached a pic of what I had made and was going to install in the plymouth with an imported S10 T5 gearbox but its a moot point now........I'm in Grafton on the NSW north coast and talk better than I type......am retired so give me a call anytime if you want more info...........6642 5963............regards, Andy Douglas

Corner light bits fabbed up. 4 LED's per corner should be plenty bright!

This just happened to me last week. Put a new NAPA Commercial 6v battery in my 38 sedan delivery. It hasn’t been started in 40+ years. Rebuilt the carburetor and distributer and hung a lawn mower gas tank under the hood. Stomped on the starter and after it turned over a few times it started and ran for 30 seconds. Got out and poured a little gas in the carb. Tried it again, and nothing. Wouldn’t even click. Pulled the battery back out and took it back to NAPA. He tested it and said it’s “dead, dead”. I also didn’t notice the label (sticker) on the battery said 8/22. It was 2 years old when I carried it out of the store.

Once again solved my own problem. It seems as soon as I ask the question a solution comes to me. Took out one of the engine/trans mounts and tilted just enough to get it out.

while the Plymouth chassis and body was typically used with the shortened wheel base cars.....the Dodge features/trim/etc places them in the Dodge realm in the Canadian market...the very bumper on this screams Dodge....in this GRAY area one must be careful when buying some grille trim etc while it looks Dodge, it is not full sized Dodge and you end up with a part that is not useable. It has always been my view that the Dodge styling cues surpassed all the other sister....Dodge would be Cinderella with the DeSoto being the evil stepmom and the ugly sisters Chrysler and Plymouth....☺️ (as in all things lumped, there are exceptions)

Disconnect all the wires and see what stops working.

Everything looks outstanding! I think the mud flap lady is valid. 48D

Reaching inside of a nut with your stinger can be a challenge. I start with laying a heavy 3/16" washer on the deck and welding that to the stub. More room to work the weld. Then I add a large nut to the washer and you can weld that from the perimeter. YRMY