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while the Plymouth chassis and body was typically used with the shortened wheel base cars.....the Dodge features/trim/etc places them in the Dodge realm in the Canadian market...the very bumper on this screams Dodge....in this GRAY area one must be careful when buying some grille trim etc while it looks Dodge, it is not full sized Dodge and you end up with a part that is not useable. It has always been my view that the Dodge styling cues surpassed all the other sister....Dodge would be Cinderella with the DeSoto being the evil stepmom and the ugly sisters Chrysler and Plymouth....☺️ (as in all things lumped, there are exceptions)

Last year my sons and I participated in https://fortunatorally.com which is a “scavenger hunt style vintage car rally that gathers teams of automotive enthusiasts for some friendly competition to exercise their vehicles over a 1,000+ mile 3-day tour of New England states (and sometimes NY) during Mid-October each year.” My youngest son am I finished 3rd in our 1964 Cadillac and my 17 year old and his friend finished 5th in their 1978 Mercedes 450SL. This year we are taking the 1951 Plymouth Cranbrook and he is driving a 1967 Cadillac Fleetwood limo. As we finalize our rally preparations and shake down of the 1951 Plymouth any advice as to what extra parts we should take? I still have to finish connecting the aftermarket gauges and tach on the custom panel I built. I removed the radio delete panel, purchased a radio / speaker panel and installed the garages. Where the speak was I installed a https://carpuride.com 9” monitor so I have CarPlay, Navi, etc and put two buttons where the stereo knobs were. (see attached photos) I need to install the chrome trim, replace the cracked passenger side window, replace the gas cap as it isn’t venting correctly, install a relay on the overdrive switch, connect the driving LED light bar to the switched I installed in place of the radio knobs and change the rear shocks. Any advice from you seasoned inline 6 Plymouth owners would be greatly appreciated.

I know it's been awhile since posting any updates on here, life with teenagers and adult kids never gets and slower. Yes the truck has made some serious progress. 99% of the body repairs are completed, the entire truck is in primer. The brake lines and master cylinder have been installed, I know it's been awhile since posting any updates on here, life with teenagers and adult kids never gets and slower. Yes, the truck has made some serious progress. 99% of the body repairs are completed, the entire truck is in primer. The brake lines and master cylinder have been installed, and bled multiple times, mounts for the replacement fuel tank have been fab'd and installed with the tank. The past few months have been moving pretty fast on little thing progress with the help of my son, who is finally taking a serious interest in the truck. We have now hit a snag that I swear I saw on the forum long ago. We are starting engine reassembly, and I'm looking for something like a step by step guide or list, the manual jumps all over the board without having a complete reassembly list. It's currently a completely stripped block, just looking for a general idea of best practices. Yes, I'll be move active when work, and life allows with kids in sports etc. I appreciate any all assistance. Eric

It's possible for a 6v battery to be on the shelf a long time. I recently replaced the battery in the P15 that was coming up on six years old because I felt the odds of it stranding me were increasing due to age. There were three batteries in the store (Advance Auto had a pretty good price), two were over a year old, I bought the one that was only three months old. Always check date codes, the 6v batteries probably aren't sold very often.

I haven’t tried that but I wonder if loosening the mount and jacking up the engine slightly would give enough clearance.

While uncommon it is not unknown for a brand new battery to be bad especially under a heavy load. And starting your car is the heaviest load it will ever see. I would put a meter on it try to start the car and see what the voltage drops down to

I have a spare distributor all set up and ready to drop in. Instead of chasing gremlins, you can save road side repairs and AAA truck haul. Don't know if it's been mentioned but a couple feet of new fuel line and clamps, oh yeah that pesky 30 amp fuse on the headline switch. Have about 40 years of rally experience but in time speed distance events in New England, PA, Jersey. New York. These typically started 3 PM on Sat and finished 7am Sunday. Then a 250 mile drive home. Did a couple scavengers style, didn't click with them. Good luck.

Just saying, one reason to replace Dodge B1C wheels ..... sure there may be more.

The tires look small in the wheel opening, to my eye, but if it works for you then go for it. I run 235/75R-15's on the 15 X 5.5 original wheels on my B2C and haven't had any issues yet.

Spent the day yesterday SLOWLY drilling the bed strip holes...60 in total thru structural U channel....all while under the influence of my shimgles booster shot....but I got it done. Here is my "favorite" version of the back plate (for all intents and purposes legally read that as "bumper"). orange dot is camera, yellow is trailer connections. I just don't know if the marker lights are "out" far enough or not. I might need to trim my stake pocket bits a bit to push them out further.

Here is my built card. I do not believe there is anything useful on it, though Oh my god, I chose liberal arts thinking that I'll never have to deal with math, again. And now, here we are... 😅 I'll take the cover off, and see what it looks like under there. I might even be able to pull a part number off a pressure plate, too 🤔