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My Build Card from the Chrysler Museum told me my D-24 was from a dealer in White Plains NY. It's been years but I finally found something ( Ebay ) to connect my Dodge to that Dealership. Still, I'll be searching Hershey for a badge or plate frame from this dealer.

Those will go in the faux fuel saddle tanks. Short headache planned.

There is a model/serial# on the drivers door hinge piller... That looks like a nice 1-1/2 truck with 14-1/2" front brakes...16" rear brakes. Might have a frame mounted booster too. Factory -properly rebuilt brakes will work way better than add on disc brakes. There are no disc kits for your truck. Getting the booster rebuilt is the hard part... Good luck with your new toy!

I am fortunate to know the original dealerships that both of my 1938 cars came from. In British Columbia Canada, Begg Motors was BC’s very first automobile dealership. They had a branch in Vancouver BC where my ‘38 Chrysler was sold. Jump on a ferry across the Georgia Strait (a considerable feat) in 1938 to Vancouver Island. There was a Begg Motors in Victoria BC also. My cars lived in those areas for all those years until I came along. I drove and ferried to Victoria to buy and load up my 1938 Plymouth. I found the “Begg Motors Victoria” dealership badge nailed down on the engine wall down by the shifter knob base. A couple years later I hauled a trailer to Vancouver BC to pick up my 1938 Chrysler. I found another Begg Motors badge in the same place. This badge said “Vancouver” location on it. Both cars reside now in an arid area of BC’s southern interior. In my care. If I win the lottery I’ll get a DeSoto, and Dodge. Maybe a truck too. Build my own replica Begg dealership. Couple old of gas pumps outside. A showroom for them all. Wouldn’t that be awesome.? Here is a photo of the actual old Begg dealership in Vancouver back in the day. These old things still make me giddy. Money and common sense are the only things holding me back. Lol. Good chance one of the mechanics in this photo prep’d my Chrysler, after is arrived on the train from Windsor Ontario. Here’s my dealer plate.

My 1952 Plymouth came from a dealer in Manitowoc, Wi. The original dealership is gone but apparently the franchise still exists today. I did find the obituary of the original owner on line. From what I could tell the car spent it’s entire life in central and northern Wisconsin until it came to Illinois in around 2000 or so.

I have a bed... Things left: 1. Fuel fill bracket 2. Tie down backers 3. Drill holes for bed strips 4. Drill holes for marker lights 5. Make bed tail plate for turn, brake, back up, plates,back up camera and trailer power

The distributor body wasn’t a heat sink. What’s more likely is that when installed your power was routed through the coil, so your distributor short just created a ground for the coil circuit. When you bench tested it you likely connected the battery directly to the distributor terminal. This caused a direct short with no load to protect the circuit. Also, the fact that the points are what burnt tells me that the current was passing through terminal without shorting through the bushing. The points are supposed to ground the circuit when closed, and when they did they couldn’t handle the full current load that you applied to them. The next time you bench test a distributor put a light bulb between your power source and the connection to the distributor. This will simulate the coil being connected into the circuit. The bulb will also blink on and off as the points open and close, as a visual confirmation that all is right.

Put a half inch bolt with a centering hole in the head in the column, so the tension bolt doesn’t wander to the side. I made this, that worked well. It has a 1.550” hole in the center. It’s two forked plates that fit together left and right. I have a 10” lathe and four jaw chuck to bore the hole so it was a perfect fit to the column and the bottom of the steering wheel. No damage to the steering wheel or threads with my puller and a center bolt.

I’ve made my first jig. This will ensure the carb intake flanges and runners are welded to the log in the correct orientation and position.

What aligns the transmission to the bellhousing is the input bearing retainer outer diameter and the corresponding hole in the Bell housing.

Correct names but wrong order. Concord is the cheapest and a shorter wheelbase. Cambridge is the middle and Cranbrook the top. There was also a Belvedere starting in 51 but that might not have been a separate model until 53