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You might give it some time and miles to seat the rings . 30 miles isn't much .

Here it is: https://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/

You would be better off rebuilding your original pump than replacing it. The pins on the new pumps have a tendency to walk out. I’m currently running one from Andy Bernbaums and it has epoxy on both ends of the pin.

Here is less rambling and more details to build your own brake tool. Share with eveyone you know! Lol.

Before you install it, on any brand by any supplier, check the lever pivot pin. If it just pushed in it needs to, be staked, clamped, or glued in. Their "interference" fit isn't sufficient to keep the pin in place. Best practice would be to replace the pin with a clevis pin that can be pined or clipped in place. Picture for discussion purposes only. This is not meant to fit your specific situation.

VINTAGEPIC: saw these big Dodge tankers on the FB

Two items worth a question. 1) Does your car have vacuum Wipers? If so get the dual chamber fuel pump and you'll thank me for asking the next time you use the wipers. 2) Does your car have the heat shield over the fuel pump? If so good. You'll find a hole for the stand off in it and the stand off should be on your new fuel pump. If not find one. You'll thank me when your car starts every time when hot.

The fuel pump cam is just that a lobe on the camshaft whether its a machined part of the billet or a bolt on piece its is just the same as any cam that revolves with the camshaft........therefore so long as the fuel pump arm touches this cam whether underneath, on top, at the side the "shape" of the fuel pump arm is really immaterial...........the fuel pump cam lobe will push against the arm and dah, dah..........pump fuel........my oz 2 cents worth.......andyd

Well all this talk about engine stands is infectious. I got a coupon from Harbor Freight and I had to use it yesterday. So I looked at what they had. They are now using the old Sears "Good, Better, Best" tactic. Years ago I worked for a dealer that had been a Lincoln/Mercury store and in one of their storage areas I found a really nice heavy duty engine stand with a gear crank on it to rotate the engine. I made a couple of adaptors for the stuff I worked on and I was hooked. Years later I had my Snap-On guy order me an OTC version. It was very pricey of course but I still thought it was a labor saver. If you intend on leaving an engine on the stand it's not worth it. If you intend to use it for assembly then it is really worth it. Harbor Freight's "Best" is a copy of the OTC engine stand and I think it is actually better. It has more features and seems to be a little heavier duty. With my coupon it was lots cheaper too. They call it a 1,500 lbs stand but the gear drive is really very nice. When you see three grease fittings on the head and you pull the cover off and see the gears, you know you got a good piece. Next I am going to put together a dedicated mounting plate to mount the engine on the distributor side cross ways. I have worked on inline engines lengthwise and I didn't care for that. A little unstable.

You should order by the engine, not the car. As you noted, you do not have the original engine in your D24. Someone else will have to chime in on what your engine came out of based on those numbers, and then you can order what you need. The pump arms should indeed match, there are internal differences in these engines ("improvements") that call for different configurations. The cam that runs the fuel pump only moves that arm a relatively small amount, and while a cam arm that is only slightly off may work, the difference between the two you show will not work. AB has always been good to me with returns, and there's a good chance they'll have the right fuel pump for your engine.

14 mm

I found a description on this site how to adjust the brakes by tightening the minor adjuster and then moving the anchor adjuster to release the contact. This seemed to work well. I also found a tool that was made by someone to make a final check. I’m not a welder so I built one out of wood which I am good at. I used the same principles. I used a nail as a pointer which made a sound when dragged across the shoe. It would change tone if it barely scraped to a slightly harder contact. Found that one shoe needed a slight adjustment and the rest were right on.