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I turned eighty a few days ago....This morning I opened a birthday card from my sister - Best laugh I've had in months.

Jay Leno knows a thing about fire. ? Anybody know about these Element extinguishers? Sure looks like a good alternative to those bulky ones.

Lot's of Mopars and other fun stuff. A couple of boring bits, but worth watching all the way through. Be sure to start it at the beginning. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COon-l5PM3Q&t=215s

Factory spec is relative to the fuels used during that time, I would set it at least 4 degrees advanced. Today's fuels are less volatile and burn slower.

I looked in My Globe window regulator catalog and her is the page from the catalog and the part number are used across the industry. First picture is the listing of the channel and the second picture is of the channel picture 288 and 289. This is why I have the large collection of catalogs to verify what people are selling. The old way was to use setting tape but the glass installer might just use the black silicone caulking and this permits them to move the glass when the setting the glass in the channels. Rich Hartung

It's a BIG engine and the mounts are massive, as is the trans mount...I'm not too worried about a forward shift in the engine/trans. A valid concern, I'll try to remember to show the motor mount at some point...the thing is ~4" in diameter. Luckily the only thing that might hit the fan(s) would be the tensioner on the passenger side, thinking the platic fan will crush/compress pretty easily, plus there is 1/4" of foam spacing the shroud from the rad itself.

I have a Century Spring catalog. There is an online catalog also. I would think that you could find something that would work. This is a page I picked that seemed close to what was pictured. Rick D.

Interesting discussion. I'm working on a 48 DeSoto and it ran fine before I tore it down 40 years ago. I've drained the FD and put new Mobil Light Circulatiing oil in it. No leaks so far. I do have the FD tool kit and I have a junk 48 FD unit out of a 48 Dodge. It is rusted through, so it can't be fixed, but I might try to tear it down to see what rebuilding one would be like. But I'm not going to buy an expensive seal to do it. Just try to tear it down and put it together again.

Setting new glass is not a big issue. You will need "setting tape" of the correct thickness. Several you tube videos show the process.

Reminds me of a story my brother told me. While getting ready for dinner at the fire station one night, a car which was on fire in the back seat area drives into the station with open flame and lots of smoke. Their first drive in fire! They put it out and found that a hole in the floor above the catalytic converter caused the carpet to ignite. The car had some damage but the driver was taken by ambulance for smoke inhalation. That guy must have really liked that car. Personally, I would have bailed given the proximity of the fire to the petrol tank. I am glad you saved your ride and you are OK. M

I'm glad I did not video it, since my old heap's initial start up was an absolute disaster! I am just getting caught back up months later thanks to the famous honeycomb rad core and repoop oil pump fiasco. Rad was re-fitted with a GM style core eliminating the tractor like MOPAR core. Cost with shipping was about 2000$ CDN. Chinese oil pump was put in appropriate trash container and the engine refitted with a prepped NOS device which cost less than the contemporary replacement. Hoping to hear that old flatty purr like she should very soon! M

I had the same issue with the FD in our D24. It began leaking quite a bit after we had the car for a while. Replacing the seals is something I would take on myself, but I didn't have, nor could I find the tools to do the job. I also couldn't find anyone that would do the work, not even AB at the time. A couple places said they'd "try", but no guarantees. Other than the leaks, the unit worked well. To shorten the story, I replaced the FD oil with Type F automatic transmission fluid, the stuff with the additives that swell seals. After maybe 20-30 miles of driving the car around, the leaks stopped, completely. This was at least 15 years ago, maybe even closer to 20, and it hasn't leaked since. I read a few years afterwards, and you've probably read some of those threads herein, recommendations not to use automatic transmission fluid, especially with the "seal conditioning" additive(s). I believe the rub is that the additives that condition the seals will eventually cause their failure, so it's not a true fix. That may be, but as I wrote, I've had no issues with our FD unit for quite some time - even though I'm prepared for the failure of those seals due to the info from this Forum.

"old Ed" (I suppose) has a real beauty! Very straight sheet metal, immaculate paint, accurate trims and very nicely maintained! It rides a bit higher than mine- i like that too! Mine has a more used look, which I liked very much. I could not even bring myself to complete repaint when the hood and left fenders had to be done after an accident. So, I have a right half in faded, ancient look and part of the left side highgloss. This combination I like much less. Maybe, in a couple of years I get so far as to decide for a repaint. The appearance of your father's car is seductive1 Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go

When my DeSoto hasn't started since 1980, you bet I'm going to video it and put it on Youtube.