Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/28/2022 in all areas

  1. Don't know the answer to the stock question or recall if mine came with it or I added on down the road. However, I did remember that it lived in Downloads and here it is: John
    2 points
  2. Just be extra careful getting around and pulling parts at the wheel chair wrecking yard as you shop for the parts. It can dangerous! ? DJ
    1 point
  3. There was a forum post earlier about a leaf spring u bolts from Pittsburg Spring, post by Fiddy B2C, so maybe they can help out?
    1 point
  4. Plugged muffler will get very hot even if there are no leaks
    1 point
  5. I totally agree but that does not mean you have to follow it or even succumb to it. Christmas is the Birth of Jesus Christ the saviour of all mankind. That is my focus. I miss Thanksgiving time here in England, they do not have it.
    1 point
  6. Sniper: On the 39 Desoto they had the outer metal plate and the rubber inner and outer gasket. But the ones that everyone sellers they state that they only start to fir at 1940 and up. But when I looked in my 36-42 Master Desoto parts manual I discovered that on the Right Hand drive export desoto they used the gasket that is listed for the 1940 Desoto. Very strange. I would think that the right hand and the left hand rubber would be the same but noone can verify and I do not want to be the Guinee pig and purchase a set and then not be able to use them. I know Steele makes a set so at next years Hershey I am going to ask them to bring a set and then matach it up to a plate that a friend gave me from his 39 Desoto. Rich Hartung
    1 point
  7. You can purchase individual 12" feeler gauges in whatever thickness you want from McMaster Carr. They are only a couple of bucks each.
    1 point
  8. .014" is for when checking valve timing on the S11. .008"/.010" is the correct hot spec for the intake and exhaust valves. .002" is generally the accepted amount to add when adjusting the MoPar flat head valves when the engine is cold. Say like right after a valve job. I would re-check them though @ .008"/.010" after the engine is hot ..running or not.
    1 point
  9. I found it interesting how a running valve that is properly set will "suck" the feeler gauge into the gap.
    1 point
  10. Before a project I get a few boxes of different size ziplock bags. I go for "cheap", but they still need to be on the sturdy side. As I disassemble components, I bag everything I took off for that component in the number of bags necessary to hold it (most often one bag suffices), whether I intend to reuse the part or not. I won't get rid of a part until I'm sure I won't need it. (Being just as cheap as the bags), I'll label them using a marker on masking tape so I can reuse the bag until it won't hold anything. I put all parts for whatever project in one place. If I rearrange the shop for whatever reason, I keep the parts groups together, even if there's more room for part X "over there". I'm good for a few years remembering where I put something, but I don't leave it to chance that I'll finish a project within that time span, so I try to keep everything in that one place. I've got a few tote boxes just for keeping such parts in, too. If I'm not going to get into a particular tote for a while, I'll put a list in the tote of what's in it. I may not be able to tell you down to the square inch where a part is, but I can tell you which shelf in which part of the shop it's on. Not quite as thorough as some, but it's worked for me so far.
    1 point
  11. I go down to Home Depot and buy storage totes and then all the parts going to Ziploc bags that are labeled and I use three different size bags sandwich quart and gallon. Then the parts going to the appropriately labeled tote and they sit on the Shelf till I'm ready for them
    1 point
  12. Here is a prime reason why everyone should have a fire extinguisher in their car, modern and or antique. The FE should always be in a spot where you can always get to it easily. Also, when you all now go out to your car you should also check the expiration date on the label or the date of manufacturer. Most FE have a lfe span of 10-11 years. The date of manufacturer might be on the label or even stamped on the bottom of the FE. This also goes for the FE's i your home. Also Check the date of manufacturer of your smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors. They also have a shelf life of 10 Years and Since it now winter or late fall replace all of the batteries in your Smoke detectors and CM detectors. The cost of a $2 battery just might save your life. When you put the new battery in each unit put some masking tape around it and mark the date of installation so that each year you know when a fresh battery was installed and periodically test each of these units. I do this every October which is known as Fire Prevention Month when I was in school. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
  13. You may be able to take your ignition switch apart and repair it. It could be a dirty contact. I always try to repair what I have before buying a new one. What could go wrong - it's already broken.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use