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Hello all I hope I’m in the right place I see it says mid 30d and mopar I have a 1934 dodge coupe that’s been sitting since 1967 Motor was seized and it was dirty I spent a month and half getting parts for the motor did an in frame rebuild new rings main and rod bearings car runs and drives excellent it’s still amazing how a car sat for so long and runs and drives so well But hey it’s a Dodge I am not going to restore it I think it looks great the way it is! Thank you all John

at this point the trim is so shiney it is hard to get a good picture so here is a close-up to showcase the grain.

Here is engine. My files are too big to load on this site 3MB maximum

Took a 3 mile drive ( still no seats ) to upholstery shop. Finally getting the door and rear panel fabric done. Once back, seats are all ready to install. Long white knuckle ride for me , as around the block has been it lately. Will report back with photos soon.

I saw your shop on one of your other threads (where you also mentioned your plan for removing the body), so I didn't comment then, but I lifted mine from above, with a chain hoist at the front, and a hefty come-along at the rear. I then set it on 2x6s crossways, on top of 15 gallon drums. I was much younger then, but I cannot imagine working on the underside of the floor if the body is only a couple of feet off of the floor. (I also kept the lifts connected and just snug, but not enough to allow the body to move on the 2x6 and barrel supports.) When we were kids we took the body off of a 53 DeSoto out in the back yard, just with bumper jacks, various types of blocking, and one floor jack. On the dirt. No adults were involved. my oldest brother (who got the idea to do this) was probably around 14. I cannot imagine what our parents were thinking, to let us do that. Oh well, we lived.

Domiest - nice project car - if you need to check any thing that was original - my 1948 car is an unmolsted one owner 38K mile car. Original paint chrome and wood never refinished. Took the engine out and rebuilt it and detailed the engine compartment. Lot of work to build one of these as factory picture shows I colorized.

A photo of my T&C ? wood restored

Sounds like you’re on the home stretch with the project. Can’t wait to see pictures.

Clay: looking forward to seeing you at Hershey next month row OAD 7&8. Look for the new National Desoto Club Banner this year at my site. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

My step-dad's father would do that checking for gas in the oil. I've always found smelling to be sufficient. Roscoe

You could, if desired, use a narrow trim reng with the 9 or 10 inch cap….but need the 10 inchers for the wide beauty ring that covers the entire wheel.. The ise of the smaller hub cap on the cheaper Deluxe model is only one thing —- the dadh is less fancy….only one insode sun visor….only one arm rest…and some other things I can’t recall. They had to reduce their biilding cost some way.

Woodslips It is not unusual for an engine that has sat for a long time to run rough for a while after t gets running again. Often the more it runs the better it gets.

I have two of each. I keep each matching pair on the same side so nobody could ever tell I have two sizes. ?

Factory shipping tie downs....they were to removed by the destination dealer.

I agree @plymouthcranbrook I have had cars in the past where the distributor was installed 1 tooth off & plug wires adjusted to make it run ..... they never ran right though. Installing the distributor correctly made a huge difference. They fired late or early, not when they should. For whatever reason our 6 cylinder engines do not care & fire when they should regardless of #1 location. I expect to remove my engine for some work at some point, I will fix it then. @Woodslip Above post I mentioned to check to see the pipe plug is clear with a rod. ..... I should add. Mine was plugged with carbon. Not thinking I just took a nail & hammer & cleared the hole. ..... easy peasy. When I started the engine there was a strange sound as the hard carbon piece was bouncing around the cylinder until it got caught under the exhaust valve and got stuck for 45 seconds and the engine ran rough as the valve hammered the carbon piece into the valve seat ... eventually got sucked out the engine. Just saying I would rather pull the head to clean the hole then just push it in the cylinder again. Possibly might try a 1/8" drill bit & drill a small hole, then work up to larger size bits .... Do not just knock it out of the hole into the cylinder.

so If you keep the dizzy indexed to the number one plug firing at 2 o clock then make a note of this for yourself and for future reference or try the rotating of the dizzy shaft 180 and nistall it at this point and see what happens. just make note of what you have done. Rich Hartung

When I got my 52 the distributor was set at 5 O’clock position. Car ran fine but since I wasn’t sure I with the help of my neighbor loosened the oil pump from the block and moved the rotor to the correct position. Car still ran fine thus telling me that as long as the engine fired on the top of the compression stroke location on the distributor doesn’t matter.

Hrm, are you sure it is tdc on compression stroke? If you flipped the distributor 180 it would be closer to the suggested 7:00 O'clock #1 position? Timing is set when the geared oil pump is installed. So it is common to install 1 tooth off like a distributor. My #1 is at 6:00 O'clock. ..... Seems these six cylinder engines do not care about relocating the plug wires & run fine. For TDC compression stroke, there is a pipe plug over the #6 piston. Insert a long wire or rod to make sure it is clear. remove rod and put a small piece of Toilette paper over the hole .... rotate engine by hand, when paper moves you are on compression stroke, insert Rod & find TDC. Now #1 is TDC on exhaust stroke, one more rotation & will be TDC compression. Since you need to get #6 first, I just start installing my plug wires with #6 first instead of the extra rotation to get #1 up on TDC ..... good enough for plug wires.

You can do that....but it might confound the next guy that has to do something with the setup. Sounds like your distributer is 180* out because normally the rotor would point to 7 o'clock when #1 cylinder is at TDC. Pull the distributer and manually turn the shaft 180* and reinsert. Hope this helps. Dick Hultman SW PA '46WC and '57FFPW

I had to laugh at the line ("I know folks in the southwest that tan snake hides with anti-freeze") (speaking of snakes) Vladimir Lenin is mummified in what we use for anti-freeze today. His body has been on display since the 1920s in Red Square. They give him a dunk in the stuff for a week once a year and touch up his makeup. The moisture in his remains has long since left being replaced by the anti-freeze thus achieving the goal that was called "The immortality Project". A little too creepy for my tastes I am afraid. If it has kept Lenin's corpse from stinking for nearly a century, (nothing could help his ideology however) I am sure a few mice won't stink either.

Along the lines of olddoge41's favored trap, up here the camp owners use "camp traps". Most camps out in the willywags are vacant for months at a time, so resetting one-mouse-at-a-time traps is not feasible or effective. Below is a photo of a camp trap set up in the Maine Warden Service cabin at Daaquam. Pop can coated with peanut butter in this case. Critter scurries (that's what mice do - scurry) up the plank, hops onto the can, can spins, critter plunges into the depths of the bucket into usually just water. Drowns. Repeat. This particular trap was quite gross, had about a year's worth of mouse soup in it. I've discovered quite by accident (left a bucket of anti-freeze that I had drained from the Terraplane out and uncovered for a couple weeks) that putting anti-freeze in the bucket will kill the mice pretty quick and preserves them to a degree that they don't stink. (I know folks in the southwest that tan snake hides with anti-freeze.)