Woodie
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Everything posted by Woodie
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Went to take off arm rest on my 48 Woodie door and after removing one small screw under it to expose the bottom of rest I see no bolts or screws to remove it off the door panel. Can anyone enlighten me as to how to remove it?
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Thanks Sniper - another thought was that these shorter plugs were for heads that were flatter from the top head surface to the well the spark plug fits in - as new design heads came out with deeper spark plug wells they raised the height so plug wires wouldn’t short out and jump to the head. The packaging of the shorter plugs look like they were for maybe 30’s Mopars.
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I added this device and it works great to blue tooth from. My phone.https://www.retroradioshop.com/products/am-transmitter-and-bluetooth-adapter-for-retro-vintage-or-antique-radios-1
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I came across some NOS Auto-lite A-5 spark plugs (factory recommended originally for my 48 Chrysler). Although both old and new have A5 on them there is a plug height difference. - would the shorter height one run hotter since the spark path is shorter? The shorter one has a military spec number on the Auto-Lite box. comments?
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Can you replace shackle bushing (4 on each side) without removing springs? Jack stands on frame and floor jack on axel? For 48 Chrysler?
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I just look at the amp gauge - needle moves with each flash so I know it is on. Indicator light is very dim to see.
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Lots of torque with the straight 8. My 48 T@C convertible has no problem going up a 7 degree sloped hill in 3rd close to my house and yes can run all day comfortable at 60-70 but by no means is that the top speed. Agree though that unless you use the low range getting to 35-40 is lethargic
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If anyone needs that ferrule I have one to give away for free. I bought one for my new tank and didn’t need to use it.
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Here is engine. My files are too big to load on this site 3MB maximum
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Going to do a tuneup and wondering what you guys are setting your timing at with the gas we have today as it is much different. My 323 straight 8 says 2 ATDC but think it could be set better for todays gas. Any recommendations? Also I just realized my new gas tank has no filter in it like the original factory ones so where is the best place to add a fuel filter? I have seen them at the carb or in line on the fuel line on the engine but leary about having it close to spark or exhaust manifold. Thinking about under the car in fuel line.
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Domiest - nice project car - if you need to check any thing that was original - my 1948 car is an unmolsted one owner 38K mile car. Original paint chrome and wood never refinished. Took the engine out and rebuilt it and detailed the engine compartment. Lot of work to build one of these as factory picture shows I colorized.
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Dodgeb4ya - I enjoyed your write up on removing the fuel gauge . My 1948 Chrysler T @ C has the same problem but am wondering you said in the last picture “one stuck gauge”. Mine is exactly like the picture apparently stuck at 160 as it doesn’t move when driving. When you said stuck did you mean you couldn’t move the needle at all or that the either had leaked out and the gauge no longer moved but you could physically move the needle. Someone told me that when they fail the needle goes back to left side but mine is as your picture shows in the middle position. I am not finding any script lettering NOS gauge to buy so have not taken mine out yet but it would be great if I could get the needle moving by a bit of oil on the shaft
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1946 - 1948 Chrysler new yorker/windsor hood latch
Woodie replied to thebelvedereman's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Wow never knew there was supposed to be that 5 inch spring - mine has been missing probably since almost new. - a picture IS worth a thousand words. Thanks -
The engine number is stamped on the frame just behind the drivers rear wheel housing towards gas tank filler tube. Serial number is in drivers front door hinge pillar
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My temp gauge has apparently quit as it stays at 160 cold or hot car on or off. Does that mean it is probably developed a leak in the bulb contents? Or is there also an electrical component to it - bad ground for instance. Gauge doesn’t move in either direction.
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Impossible to get my hands back behind dash but managed to get top clock screw out bottom one needs a slim offset screwdriver (Amazon to the rescue). Thought I could push clock up and out but no way to avoid loosening that bottom clip. Got my phone in and finally got a picture
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How do I remove the clock from the dash - I took out the top screw but there must be another at the bottom - perhaps a clip that holds it in place - Impossible to get my hands in there so can anybody tell me what holds the bottom of the clock to the dash. Anyone have a picture?
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Forgot to say for 48 Chrysler New Yorker
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does anyone have an extra used one of this tab I circled - this stays in the collar when shifting to reverse? It is a hardened part and just one bolt on the steering column holds it.. My car keeps not going into reverse and I am afraid if I remove it and try and bend it it may break as it is probably hardened steel ( I squeezed it with vice grip into collar but just sprung back) The part is supposed to be in the collar (down where the yellow dot is) but slips out when trying to shift to reverse.
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You forgot to put the rotor back on?
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Anybody know the red paint code or source for the red emblem and trim pieces that used red highlighting on at least 1946-48 Chrysler?
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Chrysler sent me a copy of original build card in 2019 and I took it to my local locksmith and he took the key codes off the card and made new original Mopar NOS Key blank keys. Of course I was luck the original keys had never been changed. WWW.katkeys.com. Same location since 1924 and he has a 1948 Chrysler.
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Thanks for all you help guys. I do have repair sheets and technical bulletins but nothing really talks or shows the mechanical things that happen when you push the tuning button. I was glad to see a diagram of the controls from member “chrysler41”. I will pull out the radio and see exactly what is going on - I guess I was looking for something simple to fix it. On another note I put a new fuse in my clock and after 60 years storage it is ticking away keeping time again. It is so nice working on a one owner 38K mile car! My fuel gauge is sporadic so probably the contact points in it need cleaning after all that time in storage as I replaced tank and sender unit.
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After being in storage for 60 years surprisingly my original 802 radio works but I have a hard time getting the bottom button for manual tuning to work. I have to push it several times with lots of static before it finally allows me to manually tune a station. I am assuming the button manually engages something. The push buttons always move the to different stations when pushed. Before I pull it out I wonder if anyone can tell me how this button works and perhaps even a picture if you have taken a radio apart. Thank much
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Thanks much for picture. I only recently got the car so am learning but this sure is a simple straight forward solution to my problem. Shifter was just catching that tab by the slightest amount. If I can’t bend it in place. Will take the it off the steering column and do in in a vice - pretty simple. The car was in storage for 60 yes 60 years in California before I got it. 1959 license plate.
