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It's been a long time since I posted to this forum. But work on your truck day has always been fun for me. I recently finished the flatbed idea iv'e been kicking around for a few years. Here is a picture of us running for some plants.

Taking my '48 B1B, original barn find, to Texas as my driver for about a month. Should cause some raised eyebrows. Looks like it should be on the back of a rollback, but it runs and drives like a new one. Can't wait!

high beam indicator light?

20 % waste figure is a good number. the only way to cut waste is to have a room that you can start with a full tile & end with a full tile. If you don't care about cut pieces being equal, you could start at door wall & work back to shower. A good contractor will start in center of floor & work out. That way cut pieces, if any, are even. Big box box stores subcontract work out & are going to be more expensive. You would be better off with an independent tile installer. I was a contractor for 50+ years, almost all work by word of mouth.

Been a little while from my last post, got the engine out and trans swapped and then reinstalled last night, today I got the drives haft hooked up and the clutch and brake pedals in. Now I need to do a little modifying to the floor pan to allow the pedals to come up all the way. Big thanks to 48Dodger for the new truck "man pan" to clear the axle and drag links. Now I have a question. For you all who have a 4spd non-synchro, what kind of spacer is there between the clutch and brake pedal? I'm currently using the bracket that holds the springs and connects to the bell housing and rod for the clutch. It's still too small because the pedal rocks back and forth. I will post some progress pictures soon, and also will be trying a test drive soon(couple months)!!!

Try a lawn mower repair shop.

Just my opinion, may not be of much value, and should be taken at that level. I am not a believer in "the sky is falling, the sky is falling" scenario. Your build up did not sound like it was that bad. No mention of thick gray (indicating lead) deposits in the galley. You can flush that area with your preferred internal (not suggesting engine degreaser) engine cleaning solution, and let it drain to the pan. That's where it goes from there. I would drain the oil before doing that, and let it all run out as you go. If we go with the idea that detergent oil should not be used in an older engine, then there are thousands of engines out there (many right here on the forum) that are facing impending doom from the change over. It has been theorized here before that considering the fact that detergent oil has been around for quite some time a lot of owners actually started using detergent oil years, and years ago. So unless you know for a fact that detergent oil never started being used then there is a real possibility that it was. Maybe the light build up that you had shows it was not used. Perhaps there will be some comments on that. If your engine has a filter, or if you add one, (and personally I would add one) anything loosened up by detergent will soon be filtered out. I agree that it is a fact that the bypass filter does not get the oil before it hits the working parts of the engine, but it does not take long before all the oil makes it through the filter. Some do not run a filter, and just do frequent oil changes. In the case of this engine I would use a filter and get things cleaned out. I may be off base, but considering that you have cleaned the pan, and the valve galley, I don't think that there is anything in there, that serious, awaiting re-circulation, that out weighs the good achieved by switching to detergent oil to clean it up, and keep it clean. Even without adding a filter it will start to clean up as the dirty goes out with the oil change rather than settling back in.

This is my favorite truck on the website

And if you don't run it so that stuff is suspended its not all going to come out. That's why I said run it up to temp and then drain it. Non detergent is designed to let all this stuff settle out. Personally I still say switch this one over to detergent. Change the oil more frequently the first couple times and then you're set.

Although it snowed an inch here yesterday morning, this is an awesome spring for northern Maine. It'll be in the 70's tomorrow and Thursday, and it'll most likely snow a tad more before Memorial Day, which is the "don't plant before" date up here, vs. the Mother's Day I've been used to elsewhere. Beautiful crystal clear blue skies with a few puffy clouds this morning, refreshing breeze, just shy of 40*, sunrise at 5 - where the sun first shines on the good ole USA. Gotta love it!

I just rode your link over to ebay and looked through the available Motor's Manuals,..some say 1946 Manual (that being the year they were published) but they all appear to cover a range of years and most automobile mfg's....I have looked at these in the past and had thought that since Plymouth might only show to be a total of 30 pages out of an 800 page manual - that I wouldn't be getting much bang for my buck, so I've not purchased one to date,...but you have given me nothing but solid information so far, so I went ahead a bought one of the manuals being auctioned, it shows to include Desoto, Dodge, Chrysler, and Plymouth yrs 35 - 50 of course along with other mfg's as well, but hopefully it will help me out...thanks for the recommendation and direction,..... ========================================================================================== Most mechanical components on these old cars were bought from outside suppliers,and used in cars of all makes. Examples are rear ends,transmissions,carbs,starters,generators,voltage regulators,etc,etc,etc. For example,both my 31 Plymouth and my 39 IHC pu use Delco-Remy ignition parts. Motors manuals have whole sections devoted to basic overhaul sections for these components,and the Plymouth section will have specific details for the parts used in your 46. You will see and understand once you get it in.

WHY in the world would I want one of these ???????? ......but avast ye maties.....I do! 48D

You have my sympathy having gone through the Butte fire and Valley fire this last summer. The moonscape left is a harsh reminder, but this to will pass. Good luck with the teardown....lots of pictures, videos, and notes!!! 48D

Sometimes you can use a 3 jaw stand alone puller to remove the GEN pulley. Carefully tighten it up and use a light hammer and wack the puller screw end once or twice. The shock sometimes will cause the pulley to pop loose.

Since you said the car was garage kept and the oil was still golden, clean the valves and head area. Then drain the oil and the strain it though some cheese cloth then reuse the oil with about 1/2 a quart of Seafoam engine cleaner. Then start the engine, and do the initial tests, set timing, check for leaks, set the carb, etc. That way any crud left in the engine should be circulated thru and the engine components will be cleaned with fairly clean oil and the Seafoam will clean and flush those hard to get areas. Then when all is said and done, change the oil prior to using the car full time. This will save you from changing the oil a 2nd time in a short period. Joe

Keep in mind that "anything gunky" is being recirculated through the bearings and everything else in the entire engine until it's drained. F

Steve,probably the best money for you to spend at this point is for a Motors Manual that covers 1946 cars. It gives exploded photos that identified all the components commonly taken apart to be repaired,and tells you how to repair,install,and adjust them if they need adjusting. Here is a selection on ebay tonight. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X1946+Motors+Manual.TRS0&_nkw=1946+Motors+Manual&_sacat=0

Yes, that fire is devestating and don't look past how good it is for these guys to get away from the "thinking" about it. Hope the tear down goes good, and don't forget to pull the water distribution tube behind the water pump...always all sorts of junk in there

Steve I've got a flathead for my project truck that has been sitting in my garage for a few years now. I took changed the oil way back(because I swapped the oil pan and pickup) and have no intention of changing it again before a restart. If anything I'd start it and let it get up to temp and then change it so anything gunky will be suspended in the oil and come out. Also since you cleaned the pan if you also clean the valve area I'd switch to detergent.

Don - I add my best wishes for you to recover as much as you can, and take care of what you can. I remember well the running battle in preparation for the big race "a few" years ago between you and Blueskies. It's one of the main things that drew me into this Forum, and ever since I have benefited from your knowledge and willingness to share it. Which makes me glad that you'll still be active with this Forum, too many have left it simply because they don't have their Plymouths or Dodges any more. Best of luck finding a suitable replacement for the "full race" Plymouth, so you can stay in the hobby!

I have no plans to disappear. As long as I have at least one finger in my control I will continue to use it.

Any new updates? bump? 48D

Afew years ago I went to a car show. The space next to me was filled by a fellow with a very nice 40 Desoto. As soon as he pulled in he opened the hood and was bemoaning the fact that his radiator was spitting out antifreeze. I asked him if it was somethingnew and hesaid it happened every time he drove the car. I took a look at the temp gauge and it was just the 180 mark. He went and took his registration papers to the club tent, and thencame back to the car,opened the trunk brought out a gallon of coolant. When the radiatorcap cooledoff he opend it and peered in. He mumbled about something and started to add the coolant. I questioned as to why he was adding coolant and said it was low again. Looking in I noted that the level of coolant int he radiator was over the top of the core by about 3/4 of an inch. At this point I decided to ask him how much he was going to add. He said he was going to fill it up as he always did. This is when I reminded him that as designed his car was a 0 pressur system and the space at the topof the radiator was by design the expansion area forwhen the fluid got hot and expanded. I said to leave it where it was, and to drive home keeping a close eye on the temp gauge. I assured him that all would be well and that the procedure he was using made sure that ithe system would overflow when hot. He looked skeptical but put his coolant jug back inthe trunk. I saw him later in the summer at another show and asked him about his radiator problems. He told me that he had not experienced any further overflow problems, the car hardly ever went above 170 to 180 degrees, and he was a happy camper. The system needs to find its own operating level. Adding more coolant just because it "seems" low is a self defeating process. Cover your core, check your temps as you operate your car. If you have doubts about the accuracy of your gauge, check it via another source. How coolant level can effect the way a car runs is a question I can not understand, unless it it overheating so badly, and so hot that it missfires due to pre ignition. or looses power from beginning to seize. REally would like to hear back fromthe original poster as to what his exact symptoms are.

I'm sure this is old news to many here on the forum, but I just discovered today that there are a series of original Chrysler training video's on You tube focusing on the 1948 Mopar Automobile.....Pretty fascinating - reminds you of the movies also from that time, and there's an animated little guy that sorta looks like the Pillsbury doe-boy or better yet the Michelin cloud man,....anyway - great info from Mr Chrysler himself.....I've only watched (2) so far,.... one on the voltage regulator, and another on front end alignment,.....you senior forum members know all this stuff in your sleep - but if you haven't seen them I know you'll appreciate the history. Search You Tube for " Chrysler Master Tech - 1948 " Steve