sam knopik

Here is what I did: a friend had some garage lumber- 9' 2x12s. I chiseled a bevel for 1rx4 hold down strips. Then stained them black. It was cheap and I think it looks fine.

It's been a long time since I posted to this forum. But work on your truck day has always been fun for me. I recently finished the flatbed idea iv'e been kicking around for a few years. Here is a picture of us running for some plants.

I first found this group almost 10 years ago I think. You all led me to find a Pilothouse, which I did. It took me the better part of 7 years to get it operational! I e been driving it off and on now for about 2 years. While I was working on it in my driveway because I had no garage Old Blue now resides in a two car garage. My daughter and I took it to our first car show, at a local parish, this spring and won a prize! It's not a show quality truck but we had a lot of fun. I have not done a good job sharing stories or pictures but you all have helped me so much along the way. Thanks again, Sam Knopik

It was running fine.. but I could tell the timing was starting to misfire. Then she just died one afternoon and I have not been able to get it started since. I have done the routine tune-up maintenance hoping that would do the trick. I have searched through the forum and found some tips that I will try tomorrow.

Battery is fully charged, I get spark, engine turns over but wont start. I get an occasionally pop and choke out of the carburetor and tailpipe.... Any suggestions?

Looking to find rims to replace my original locking rims. I have a 1-ton with the 6 bolt pattern. Can anyone point me to a dealer or a make of a modern vehichle that will fit? Thanks, Sam

How prepped does the sheet metal need to be? Can it have any surface rust or does it need to be 100% clean? What about on top of the rust encapsulator paint, will it adhear to that? Thanks, Sam

Thanks Jeff. The ground off the battery cables did come to mind and that was going to be my next move. -SK

Group, I had the truck running this summer. Drove it around the block a few times... Then I started hooking up the headlights/flashers... (I'm not sure if that is related but I'm listing what I did.) Slowly but surely the starter started to get slower and slower the next 10-15 times I started it until finally, I would push the starter pedal to the floor with not even a wince of a grind. I took the starter off and had it re-built. The mechanic cleaned it up and replaced some of the innards. I installed the starter, with a freshly charged battery, and attempted to start the truck again. It began to turn the 4 or 5 times I tried but would not fire. Then, thinking the gas may be sour, I poured just a bit into the carburetor and tried again. This time it turned and sounded like it actually fired for a second. Then nothing. I can push the pedal to the floor with no sound. Thoughts on where I go from here? Thanks, Sam

Yes the adjustment screws and nuts.

I need 2 headlight mounting bolts and nuts...

When I press the clutch pedal it wobbles to the left side and rubs up against the hole in the firewall. The squeak it makes is like you would expect, a very raw-bone chilling metal on metal type. I wanted to be able to just live with it but it seems to be getting worse. Is there a reason it does not have a tighter path to the floor? Thanks, Sam

Dan- Do you have any pictures of where you placed those strips on the door?

what happened to the old bumper?

Woke the neighbors up at 6:30 to drive Old Blue to the muffler shop this morning. I wanted to avoid traffic as we are not - how should I say..... - quite street legal yet... Got a ride to work with a buddy. In less than an hour it is already done!!!! I'll try to post a picture or two tonight.

I'll spare you all most of the details as you all know the rigors of the process... Bought truck in July 2007. Various work transpires.......... Took a victory lap around the block last night!!!! While I have a way to go I just wanted to share this milestone with you all. Thanks for the continued help! Sam

I'm looking for 2 of the brass clip-nuts and 1 adjusting screw.... Any suppliers you guys use?

The pictures are great but for the life of me I cannot figure out where the other end of the spring attaches.

I have the exploded diagram from the parts manual but I'm confused on where the springs go and the adjusting screws/nuts... I took pictures during disassembly but now I can't find that batch on my camera!!! Anyone have any good photos of how it goes back together?

I'm from Omaha originally and this thread put a smile on my face.... Can't remember the last time I went "home".

Thanks guys... it's 2" actually. my guestamation skills are suspect.

The shop manual says: 1) Remove wheel and brake drum wheel check... brake drum... huh? I've searched the forum and have read quite a bit on both Truck and Car sides, I've watched you tube vids on other types of vehicles but I cannot figure this out. Once I remove the wheel, do I need to remove the hex-cap on the axle? It appears to be 3" wide and threaded... How does it come off? OR am I way off in the process and if so, what's next? Working on a B-1-D. Thanks, Sam

Lacking any good reading material last night I dug into some old copies of Vintage Truck. I enjoyed the ongoing column of the restoration of the WD truck... did he ever finish that anyway? my subscription expired and I never knew... Anyway in the Sept 2009 issue was about bleeding the breaks and while I had a good idea of how to tackle this project it was well written with great pictures and I feel even more confident. So, if you have some of those back issues they are fun and helpful to pull out every now and then.

You guys who have re-cored with a tube and fin... were they able to use your original tank and bracket? The guy I called here said he had problems getting the older tanks onto the new cores...