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VFFFrank

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VFFFrank last won the day on April 25 2016

VFFFrank had the most liked content!

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  • Website URL
    http://Vintagefullflow.com
  • Biography
    Hudson guy but love 'em all
  • Occupation
    Owner, Hughes machine

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Washington State
  • Interests
    Mods to our old cars for the sake of reliability, safety, and longevity. Inventor, manufacturer of the Vintage Full Flow(TM) retrofits for certain vintage engines including the PDSC flathead sixes and eights. This is not exclusively a marketing ploy as I have an interest in discussing/assisting in any area in which I may be of help.
  • My Project Cars
    Numerous Hudsons

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  1. I see a 30A circuit breaker in the power supply to the Headlight switch. If it's "open" due to a failure or "contactitus" it will disallow power to all of the lighting circuits. Check for 6V at the input terminal and the load side. If it's there on the line, but not the load, it's open. F
  2. Turning in the same direction of rotation retards, opposite advances. F
  3. Don's correct .....a plugged bypass filter element will have no effect on oil pressure because.....it's a bypass filter. A plugged filter would have the same effect as having no filter at all, i.e., ports blocked off with pipe plugs. Frank .
  4. Thebee, I don't know where my last post disappeared to so I'll give it another try. The 10-1323 M/C is several 60s and 70s Chrysler products but is a 1" bore. That would yield a displacement at only ~64% of that put out by your original 1.25" cylinder. Pedal effort would be substantially decreased for a given system pressure but the greater piston travel necessary to achieve the same volume output could result in over-traveling and "bottoming out" of the piston. Very bad. Look for a cylinder with a bore size closer to the 1.25", preferably one with a detachable reservoir so that it can be firewall mounted, as God intended. If it isn't easy to check, it doesn't get checked. Also, a residual valve in each circuit (10 psi for drums, 2 psi for disc) is recommended if the M/C is <24" above the W/C elevation. With the reservoir up on the firewall, they shouldn't be necessary, although I have installed them anyway without issue. Frank
  5. thebee, In regard to the split/tandem system conversion, I have used the NAPA NMC M2534 M/C with success but in systems that used a 1" bore to begin with. The 2534 is spec'd for a number of Chrysler products (at least it's common and still in the family) and has a 24mm bore. The displacement difference is of no concern there (about .946" instead of 1") but, when compared to a 1.250 bore, the 24 mm bore difference is substantial, yielding only ~57% of the original amount. Pedal effort would be almost half but the big downside is that the travel to deliver the needed volume would certainly bottom-out the piston. Yikes! You need to find one with similar or equal bore size and, preferably, one that has a removable reservoir that you can mount up on the firewall where it belongs. Underfloor M/Cs suck. Frank
  6. Young, I agree, but it's not so much that non-detergent is designed to let contaminants settle out, as it's that the modern oils are formulated with additive packages that (among other qualities) maintain contaminants in suspension, thus allowing them to continually recirculate. In "modern" engines (generally meaning those designed/built from the mid-fifties onward), the oil must pass through a filter prior to introduction into the oil gallery so that suspended material is removed before bearings, etc., are exposed to them......aka, the full-flow filtration system. Granted, the bypass type of filter is typically "tighter" (numerically lower micron rating) but doesn't remove particles prior to entering the gallery. Frank
  7. Keep in mind that "anything gunky" is being recirculated through the bearings and everything else in the entire engine until it's drained. F
  8. IMHO, an "experienced" engine that has been using a non-detergent oil for some time (or forever) can be harmed (using the term gently) by a subsequent change to detergent oils. A great place for sludge to form is in the tappet chamber area and, if released after the changeover, it can be a bad thing. The downside is that once it's disturbed, there's nowhere to stop cleaning. It's somewhat difficult to clean that area while keeping the crud contained within the chamber. Depending on how ugly it is, it can quickly clog the pump inlet screen. Seen it happen. Frank
  9. 48ply And, (a shameless plug follows) may I suggest a conversion to a full flow oil filtration set-up while it's still an easy job. Initial start-up is the most important time to have that feature. Your wallet may not like it but your engine will be grateful! Frank
  10. At the risk of sounding like a know-it-all, that was my guess. Is it a Firestone by chance? "The voice of Experience".
  11. OK, I see my error.....I think. I saw that the P25, D44 & D48, listed as "with Hy-Drive" has a regulator on the pump cover. The Full flow system appears to have the regulator in the base of the filter unit as well as the filter bypass device. F
  12. The original 6V Pos earth system will run the fan OK at higher rpms, but you don't need it then. I'd recommend a 6V + alternator such as a Powermaster unit. Expensive, but they put out about 60 A at idle. That's when you'll need the electric fan to run without running down the battery. Think "hot day, traffic jam , goin' nowhere at idle". Pretty easy one-wire installation. You can leave the regulator in place just to serve as a junction block and to look stock, but it's not really necessary. F
  13. With twin Hydra-Matics. We had a war to win. What they accomplished with the technology of the day is nothing short of amazing to me. We're still speaking English.....that says it all for me. Frank
  14. Yes I saw that! Glad to hear that it got fixed. I'm aware that the portion of the plunger with reduced diameter is to allow flow from the bypass filter but this one has a factory full-flow, which appears to have the regulator in the pump cover and a filter bypass valve situated in the base casting of the filter assembly. Correct me if I'm wrong on this one....please. (You'd think as much as I hate being wrong, I stop it) A filter bypass is NOT to be confused with a bypass filter. It's there to allow flow in the event of an excessively restricted filter element. A "bypass filter" doesn't need that feature. The staggered port scheme disallows flow from the bypass filter at pressures below ~15 psi so as to not sacrifice any volume at low speeds. You can imagine my frustration when I once wrote an article entitled "In Defense of the Bypass Filter" and our newsletter editor changed it to "......Filter Bypass". !!! It made my piece make no sense at all. Frank
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