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Anxious wait while our new Dodge delivery is completed. Bought sight unseen from a FaceBook Marketplace sale notice , Travelled 1700km via Webtow, http://www.webtow.com.au Can't be happier, non runner but way better than expected. Original books and paperwork included , receipts showing 4 previous owners. Toyed with the idea of converting it to EV , but its too damn good, going to bring back to new .

change your condenser...….inspect your points for signs of over current ie bluing....I bet it runs like new money out of gear....

Just got my first car, a 1940 D14 De Luxe, and I was just wondering if you had any suggestions for me? I'm a kid in Highschool. ????

Do you have the Langdon distributor or the Frankenstein slant 6 one? My Langdon has be fantastic so far, and easier to get parts up here for it, then a new points and condenser, but typically electronic ignition works or it doesn’t, not much intermittent usually. Is your carb bowl always full?

So I need to wear an aluminum foil hat?

I know one thing..you do not want to drop a sacrificial cathodic weld on hunk of zinc that they put on submarines on your foot....

I haven't looked inside a speedometer of that age, but most i have seen are magnetic drive. If the clearance between the driven and driving elements is wrong that can happen. I think a bench check by another shop may be in order. One question: Is the odometer accurate?

20 inches of mercury is an excellent vacuum reading. the engine, if you recall what I told you probably came out of a low mileage wreck as Murray, the long term owner, and Hugh, the fellow who installed the engine, had a friend who was an auto wrecker. and the swap was done in 68 or so. Lots of low mileage cars in Victoria then. The transmission noise will be the input shaft bearing. easy to change without having to disassemble the trans itself, just the front . These transmissions s have all helical gears and needle bearing countershaft s . They run very quietly in all gears. The bearing is easy to obtain, I can give you the number.

some of these hinges are straps to the door itself and 3-4 bolts hidden by the door panel......as for the post bolts....soak them with penetrate if you do not have a means to heat them....oxy/acetylene works best......heat to cherry red the bolt...let cool till they have lost their red and use an impact driver to break them loose....the heating of the bolt breaks the rust bond and on the average will evaporate the rust on the threads that stick beyond the captured nut plate...do not heat from the back side as often you can easy round the thread by melting in direct flame contact...this will make removal a nightmare... find a bit that fits snug the profile of the screw....get it to sharp pointed of a point..it does not bottom out and engage the flats.....only take a minute to see what I am referring too.....

I have been through this more times that I want to remember. In California here is the issues: 1. The local CA-DMV offices know nothing. In fact they know less than nothing when it comes to the old plates or transfering and registering old cars. They get it wrong about 90% of the time. Do not call them or go see them unless you have talked to the SPU. See item #4 below. The SPU IS THE FINAL AUTHORITY ON ALL TRANSFER, REGISTRATION, AND PLATE ISSUES IN CALIFORNIA. All DMV offices have to defer to them. 2. About 10 years ago CA-DMV sent to the garbage heap all the old records of the cars. Due to that actress that got killed 25 years ago and the state legislature prohibiting the CA-DMV from giving out personal information from its records, they had no reason and no financial incentive to hang onto the records. All they will tell you is if that plate is currently registered to a car. If the car has been out of the system for more than about 5 years, they will not have anything on it. 3. You MUST have two plates. (1946 CA cars only had one). 4. Call the CA-DMV special processing unit in Sacramento if you can get anyone to answer the phone. The last number I had for them is (916) 657-8035, it may be good or not. 5. If you really want to run that plate, Go to the local DMV and see if you can get that as a "NEW" black specialized plate. Just run one old one with one of the new ones. Even a CHP would probably not notice. Of course you can always get a set of old orange plates and use them under the YOM (Year of Manufacture program) if you want for a 1953 car. 6. Under no circumstance take an old pate to the CA-DMV and hand it to them. You will never see it again. 7. Read and understand item #1. Then read it again! Good luck, James

Post 1501 is the "Sir Vival", front end articulated, rear end '48 Hudson.

A friend contacted me to tell me he saw my Chrysler and I on someone’s You Tube channel. A person unknown to me had asked me a few Q’s at a car show in June. Here we are. Jump to the 2:19 mark. I had a few people talk to me who were really, really into my old Windsor that day. It was a good day. I kinda feel special now. Lol. https://youtu.be/NgrpR17TKNA

done for now, primed and painted...what's next on the list?

The tiny circle in the middle of the headlamp switch lites up when the hi-beams are on. I had no idea. This car is totally foreign to me. The old concepts totally new to me. I don’t know anyone locally with a car like this. Lol. Those crafty Chrylser engineers....They are schoolin’ me 81 years later. Getting back on track now cleaning up more wiring.

While awaiting carb kit to arrive I’ve been picking away at other tasks. New emergency brake cable is installed and working well. Front brakes look new. Adjusted. I was working on dash wiring and decided the front seat just had to come out. Pain in the neck getting down under there. Front carpet is in a very bad way. I removed the front section. You can see here what I have to work with. I’m pretty pleased with the floorboards. Moslty appear like new. Some rust near driver corner on screw-in floor access cover. Not much. I won’t complain. Now I have to deal with the need to store large removed items like the seat. Here you can see the uncovered treasures of the floor. Not bad for a 1938. I’ll get to wrapping up the 1/O battery cables. They are a tight fit to get back down around the battery box.

Bizzy coupes are cool. Had mine for 49 years.

FREE oil changes for Tesla cars..... It could be waaaaaaaaay worse....it could be a SBC...