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It's taken a long while but we got her put together this spring. Her name is Bettie. She ran so well that we chose to take her to the Hot Rod Dirt Drags in Monte Vista, Colorado. Won 1-3 against a big black merc. Blew up a second flex plate and found out the steering column needs a new bearing. Even with that she drove there and back home without a complaint! Woot!

Well, if 35 mph is racing, maybe! 40 is really pushing it. Went for another drive yesterday afternoon with my home made float. Works great. Going to a cruise in tonight, we'll see how that goes.

Man's got to know his limitations...... that could be a good tag line for a movie.......

heck..I got one of them now....but had to make my own ladder...the ladder has since been stained and clear coated..

I met Moose at his place in Hanover, MA today. I can't tell you how great he's been, helping me out with this. By the time I got there, he had the head pulled and was working on getting the valve out. There is nothing visibly wrong with the tappet button in question but it definitely does not fit into the tappet like it should. It's now a very loose fit and you can turn it with your fingers. Also, I have to clarify why I said earlier that this particular tappet button was worn down to half the height of the others and that a few of the others looked like they had worn down, too. It turns out (as Moose pointed out to me) that I used two different styles of tappet button. They have slightly different dimensions but as I understand it are OK to use. I got them from Vintage Power Wagons, I think. There are a few that look short when you look at them, but that's just the way they're designed. Moose showed me an unused one from his stock that is identical. Others look taller because they're a different style of tappet button. I don't believe I noticed this when I built the engine. Anyway, Moose has an incredible setup at his house. I won't even begin to describe it, but it's an old barn with heavy wooden floors, a loft, and all the gadgets and stuff you could ever want. The new tappet button has gone in and has the proper interference fit. The engine is going back together now.

To All: After 4+ years of work sandwiched between farm work, orchard work, building maintenance, etc., my son and I finally started my '51 B3C and it runs!! We set the points, adjusted the timing, put 5 gal. of fuel in the tank and hit the starter. Much to my surprise it started on the first turn of the engine and produced 40 psi oil pressure, 160 deg. water temp., and 17-18 in. Hg. vacuum, a good charging rate, and it purrs like a kitten. I backed it out of the shop and ran it around the farm for a bit in first and second gear and it stops. After I got it back in the shop the fuel bowl attached to the carb started spraying fuel on the engine (not a good thing). I shut it down, cleaned up the fuel (fortunately no fire) and determined that one of the four tapped holes for the bowl cover is stripped. I contacted Mark Fritsche (ggdad1951) about a replacement. He thinks he may have one but he won't know for sure until he completes his move into his new house. I have attached several photos of the grand day. Barry

I must be getting old. I don't often go 84 in the wife's Navigator..... not sure that I like the old suspension design well enough to gamble...

Define "off brands"...Chevy ? Hank

I have a Photobucket album with a dozen tug engine pictures at this link>>>>http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DonCoatney/library/Engine/Tug%20Engine?sort=3&page=1

Anyone ever see one. I haven't. Many times we've discussed jumping a 6 volt battery while out on the road. Most have either pushed the car to start it, or carefully jumped the 6 volt battery with a 12 volt to get the car started. However, if you aren't fast enough or don't do it properly with the 12 volt battery you can mess things up a little. Yesterday afternoon was talking with my brother in law on the phone. He has an extra 6 volt battery in the garage all the time. Wouldn't help him on the road though. We both also have the 12 volt emergency booster packs. However, since we both bought those about the same time some years ago, neither one will hold a charge now. So, we were just saying it probably just as cheap to buy new ones and toss the old ones. After hanging up though, I could smell the wood ignite in my head. If you take the battery packs apart, you'll find a 12 volt dry/gel cell battery in there. Those are replaceable. Now, if you go to someplace like Batteries Plus, etc. you could get a 6 volt battery and put in there instead of a 12 volt. Should work since the battery cables for jumping are very heavy. Then you can make or buy a 6 volt charger to plug into a 110 outlet to recharge it when needed. This will give you the 6 volt emergency booster for on the road use. Or.........even at home if needed. I already have an industrial 6 volt dry/gel battery in the shop I use for testing. My son made a 6 volt charger for it. It's not big enough to turn the engine over though. Only use it for testing 6 volt items. Just a thought. Going to get with my son on this and if it can be done, will give it a try. I don't see why it wouldn't work myself. Any comments?

You might want to contact them and alert them about the problem. This is the first report I have heard about them selling something not up to par.

Reg: Thanks for the offer, but I have both mirror arms. I just haven't mounted them because they would get in the way as I move around the truck. Thanks again. Barry

It was a fare pun.

I spoke to a local fellow who once needed to get his old car towed a couple hundred miles and hand only the 100 mile coverage. Turns out all he did was get a 100 mile tow toward home. At the end of the tow after he was unloaded and the tow truck left, he called AAA again and got another 100 mile tow for the rest of the trip home. I think you get more than one tow per year and all he did was use up a bit more of his yearly quota. Long way of saying, I'd probably drive the car. Chances are you are good to go. If not and something goes wrong, then have AAA tow you to a U-Haul place and get your truck and trailer.

When doing power upgrades, the entire package has to be considered to execute a fully functional & safe driving experience. This truck was designed around the 23" flatheads; the 25" flatheads can fit with little modifications to the frame, firewall, brakes, etc. as compared to dropping in a V-block. With more power brings the need for more braking & better handling, and this can spiral upwards to where a chassis swap would be cheaper & more effective than modifying the B-series frame, etc. I have not run the numbers, but from appearances, putting the B-series sheet metal on the 1st gen. Dakota rolling chassis seems to be the cheapest & most effective way to get more power & have a daily driver to boot. My personal preference is to keep a flathead under the B-series hood, just to enhance the wow-factor of the rare Pilot-House truck. But bottom line, do whatever you want to do with your truck...it's your dime, after all

I love this story of how people like Moose and others here are a community that are willing to help their fellow Ply brothers. I know Plymouth Adams has done the same for me and I am very grateful for the knowledge and generosity. We have a great group of folks here.

Here are a few more. The first one is especially for PP. And finally a term for those who pop in to ask a question but never follow the good advice generated by this forum.

After a quick swim break with the kids, and a run for cat food and oil, I jumped back into it and the head is back on. Step torqued up to 70 lbs, and started to put back some of the extras. Now it's time to make dinner for the family. I plan to finish and run it tonight.

try this thread http://p15-d24.com/topic/38901-oil/?hl=%2Boil+%2Bbrand I think the search function filters out words of 3 letters or shorter. You will find that there is no optimum answer--personally I use Valvoline Max Life 10w-40. There are a few purist who use only 30wt non detergent, a lot of Rotella users and a lot of whatever is on sale.

monroe umber was 31000.

The old open cased Chrysler alts are as easy to wire as the 1 wire GM and are a whole bunch more attractive than the GM.

It should be against the law to paint wood that nice, but being true to the restoration, that's what it needs to be right, and I, for one, can appreciate that.

Finally reclaiming some of my garage floor space. I've gotten enough of my wiring, fuel & brake systems done so I could drop the engine back in. Getting ready to start Up & away Almost there Done Anyone have a diagram for wiring up the engine? I'm using the Rebel Harness and want to confirm how to connect the regulator, electric choke and ignition. Other than finishing up the stuff I've already started, then next big thing to work on will be swapping in a rear axle. Going to start hunting for a Jeep Cherokee rear from the early 90's...from my reading here, seems like that's the easiest one to do.

Ed, If it works, I'll tell people how to make their own. Not really interested in starting a small cottage business.

I'll agree, converting to 12 volt does have it's advantages. Not only for what you just mentioned, but for other things as well. But........I don't want to convert mine, at least not now. That said, I never block one of my cars in. We keep my wife's car and the coupe in the garage and my van sits outside. However, I always park the van far enough away from the garage door so I can get both cars out, without moving the van. Up here in the winter you not only have to worry about a car not starting from a battery problem. Sometimes when you leave a car outside here the doors will freeze shut and you can't open them. Plus, this way I don't have to jockey cars around to drive the one I want, and it really doesn't matter too much if it's frozen shut or the battery is dead in one of them.

I really don't need an extra battery or pack for around the garage. If a battery goes down at home, I just wait for the battery charger to charge it back up. If the battery doesn't take a charge or goes down in the garage for no reason, I'll replace it. It's usually not that important that I move the coupe that I would have to jump it. I'm more concerned about being out somewhere when that might happen. However, I wouldn't buy an Optima battery for everyday use, much less to keep in the trunk. My son keeps after me to buy an Optima for under the hood. But...........like I tell him, "I'm cheap". Optima's cost twice as much or more than the regular lead acid battery, and from seeing people around here that have them, they don't last much longer or even longer. Plus, you do have to keep those charged up if not used regularly too. Yes, I'll agree with my son and others that they don't make a mess like the old type batteries, but that mess is cleaned up easily with just letting the hose wash off the battery and tray once in a while. If I can find a battery similar to those in the the packs for about $40 or less, then it may be worth it to make the emergency pack if possible.

Don, You do have a point. I never used the 12 volt battery pack either. I also have a pair of very heavy duty jumper cables hanging in the garage for years. About the only time I used those was to jump someone else. I've only used the boost feature on my charger once since I've owned it. That was to jump my wife's Sundance after she bought the Kia. The Sundance battery went down from non use after that, so had to jump it to sell it. But...........being an ex Boy Scout leader it's nice to "Be Prepared". So.....that's the reason for a battery pack. Thanks Robin. I'll take a look to see if I can find that.