Merle Coggins

When I pulled my engine, in a similar condition, I removed the transmission along with the clutch and brake pedals. I was then able to pull the engine out with the bell housing attached. This is tricky as the steering column interferes with things a bit. But it'll come out. I then laid the block on it's side, on a solid bench and removed the crankshaft out the bottom with the Fluid Drive attached. I could then access all of the FD nuts to separate the FD and Crank. Then a lot of cleaning with wire wheels and flapper sanding drums, and a lot of penetrating oil. I was finally able to drive all of the pistons out with a BFH and a block of wood. Then I focused on the valves. I gripped the cam sprocket with a large channel lock pliers and rotated it back and forth, a little at a time, until all of the valves were stuck open. I could then tip the block upside down and slide the came out, followed by the tappets. I then hammered the valves back closed to remove the keepers and springs. Then, with the aid of a long punch, I drove the valves up and out of the block. Then I hauled it all to a machine shop where they bored it, decked the block and milled the head, replaced the valve guides and seats, as they were also trashed. They provided the pistons and rings when I picked it all up. I then reassembled it and it's been a solid engine ever since.

Did you do a disc brake conversion on the front axle? If so this will require shortening the tie rod. At least that was the case with my Rusty Hope kit. The caliper mounting plate moves the steering arms inboard and I found that my tie rod didn't have enough adjustment to compensate for this. I ended up trimming off an equal amount off of each end and reinserting the tie rod ends. This gave me the adjustability that I needed.

I have not seen that type of filter canister with a bolt on lid, but if you can identify the proper filter cartridge there's no reason why it won't work for you. As you said, many filters were aftermarket installs on these trucks. You'll need to determine which ports on the filter canister are Inlet and Outlet and make up new lines to connect to your engine. I took your photo and labeled the plugs for you as you seemed unsure how to connect it. You may also want to search for the correct coil mounting bracket as this one seems to be home made.

Allow the rod that goes to the inside handle pivot to rotate down so that it is parallel to the window track. This will allow the latch assembly to rotate out around the window track. At least that's how I remember finally getting mine out.

Remove the brake backing plate. The outer seal in pressed into that anyway. Once you have that out of the way you'll need to pull the axle shaft. You may need to rig up a puller, or slide hammer to pull the axle. The inner seal is behind the wheel bearing. When you go back together you'll want to clean and repack the bearing with grease.

What part of 'Sconsin are you in?

I would have welcomed 28 degrees this morning. We had -8. I'm sure it was colder farther north, as I'm in the Milwaukee area this week.

From what I've seen the C-series changed the bell housings to be more like that used in the cars. However, everything forward of the bell housing should be pretty much the same. Just use your bell housing on that engine block and it should all be good.

Send that speedo face off to Keven Paddy, aka B1B Keven. He does vinyl overlays that'll make it like new again.

I ran those cheap Peterson tail lights for several years before I bought a set of reproduction 'vintage' Dodge tail lights. I like the look with the 'DODGE' logo in the lenses, but the Peterson lights were better quality in regards to the light socket and wiring.

Aren't many of the vehicles at the Volo Car Museum also for sale too? I've been through that place a couple of times.

The diode is those type of relays is a quenching diode that is used to protect the switching circuit from arcing. Maybe that's just another way of saying what Sniper said, "to prevent back EMF". Some relays use a resistor for this purpose. Those with the resistor wouldn't be polarity sensitive, but the diode ones certainly are.

I've done that several times too. It works well. I've also seen a procedure for our flat head engines where you dunk the pump in oil and turn the pump by hand until it purges all air out of it. Then install it, with it full of oil. Apparently this is also sufficient for the pump to be able to pull up oil from the sump upon first startup.

I didn't realize there was a lowside bed option for the B-Series 3/4 ton trucks. I though it was only a 1/2 ton option. The 3/4, and 1 ton, beds are wider and don't need those removeable skirts for spring shackle maintenance. At least there isn't any on my highside bed.

I likely won't make it this year. I'm planning another trip to Back to the 50's this year. However, I do have big plans for next year...