Engine Runnin Hot Again

[Don Coatney]

Hi all, just got back from a test ride, ambient temp around 45 to 50, with a brisk wind.

This is interesting Fred. My car does not have a belt driven fan. I instead have a thermostacially controled electric pusher fan in front of my radiator. On a day such as you mentioned (ambient temp around 45 to 50, with a brisk wind) when I drive in city traffic with a tail wind my electric fan runs as my engine temperature is slightly elevated. When I turn around and drive into a head wind my fan does not run as my engine is cooler. Just the opposite of what you observed.

could the distributor advance curve (mechanical portion) be contributing to to higher speed/warmer day driving problem?

Shel;

Might be a possibility but if there are broken/missing springs on the distributor counter weights then the mechanical advance would be fully advanced at all times including idle. I would think this would produce poor performance.

[martybose]

As long as timing is a possibility, could the distributor advance curve (mechanical portion) be contributing to to higher speed/warmer day driving problem?

Would it also show significant performance problems if that were suspect?

When I was debugging my HEI issues, it turned out that I had too much centrifugal advance, which was causing pinging under high load going up hills and was heating up at low load highway cruising speeds. At lower speeds the performance was excellent. I temporarily disabled the centrifugal advance, and the problems went away. I'll eventually work on reducing and delaying the centrifugal advance to see if I can make a compromise solution.

Marty

[55 Fargo]

Hi all, today I removed the rad, gave it a flow test, it emptys fairly quick, flow seems pretty good, but there is still sticky stuff inside of the rad, old glycol. I had this rad boiled out last year, should it not have gotten rid of all the sticky stuff, if the core is coated with this stuff, wouldn't that make heat transfer poor, even though the flow is good, just a thought.

I also pulled the t/stat, reverse flushed the block, water ran through like crazy, and came out clean, next tro no crud, no crud was flowing out the drain cock either. The anitfreeze was clean as well, I have save it in a 5 gallon pail.

If there was crud in the water jackets, would not some come out with a backwashing.

The waterpump seems fine, I put a large screwdriver into the impellor, then tried to turn the fan blade, the water pump is fine the imppelor is not slipping on its shaft.

So what in the world is causing my beast to run hot on warm days.

Is it timing, I have lessened the advance, but it's too cool out today, it ran about 165 to 170 on my test rides today.

One other thing, not sure about the heat riser, if it is stuck in the cold position, would that elevate engine temps on warm days.

Not sure what to do next.

I found a 265 combine engine today, the paint still looks shiny on most of the engine, doesn't appear to have leaked much oil in its career. I can buyfor a $100.00, if I want it................Fred ps sorry for the long post, I really need to fix the heating problem, been trying for 2 to 3 years

[Don Coatney]

Not sure why you think you have to apologize for a long post. I have never understood that? Also not sure why you think you have a over heating problem. I think you are good to go. Drive it and enjoy it. My engine has shot up over 200 on more than one occasion. But it soon cools back down. Drive it and enjoy it.

[40phil41]

Fred,

I think that it was Greg who once told me how to flow check my Rad. and the old time Rad. guy did just that. Hold you hand over the lower hose opening and fill the rad. to the top. When you remove your hand you should get a 4 to 6 in. height from the water coming out. At least that is what I recall. Others may correct me.

Phil

[Normspeed]

I'd sure grab that 265 for $100 if it were in my neck of the woods.

[55 Fargo]

Actually it is a good idea,Normspeed I know where there are 3 in my immediate area. I also own 2 -251s, but may buy this one just the same...................Fred

[55 Fargo]

Hi Don, the reason for the apology was this, I have posted this overheating problem each summer, and feel a little foolish doing so, I should have taken care of this by now.

I am obviously not correcting something, in my cooling system components or something related. I ahve been racking my brains for48 hours, I cannot find the problem.

I agree with you, if the engine shot up to 200 on a real hot day 80 and over, then coled down, I could see that. But it was barely 70 , the wind was fairly cool, and my engine temp was climbing, no doubt she would have possibly boiled over in a few miles, good thing it's flat around here.

I think on a 70 degree day, it should be 180 tops, at 90 degrees, I can see 190 to 200.

I appreciate all of the help from you and the others, but I must be missing soem part of this problem.

My heat riser is stuck, not sure in what position, could this be the culprit.....................Than x Fred

Not sure why you think you have to apologize for a long post. I have never understood that? Also not sure why you think you have a over heating problem. I think you are good to go. Drive it and enjoy it. My engine has shot up over 200 on more than one occasion. But it soon cools back down. Drive it and enjoy it.

[55 Fargo]

Hi, did the flow test, the water empties real quick, a little geyser flows out the bottom rad hose, about 4 to 5 inches, a good flow, but it does not rise up quite like a water fountain but close.

Not sure if that means the heat transfer is good or if it is flowing well.

I have read the honeycomb rad is a superior design if the core is in good shape.

The rad also expels water very quickly, with a garden hose up top, she empties real quick, never fills up in the top tank, that is what you want, good flow.

The wtaer pump appears in good order, I placed a huge screw driver into the impellor, the fan would not turn, indicating the shaft is not slipping.

[55 Fargo]

I did try the headgasket/exhaust leak test once, removed t/stat housing, disconnected fan belt, started engine, no rise in coolat in head, and no bubbles, so I ruled that out for now.

I am not sure if it is timing or not, I have set timing a few times, it still overheats in warm weather60s and over, it does not over heat in cool weather50s and lower............Fred

[Young Ed]

Fred have you had the water dist. tube out of this engine?

[55 Fargo]

Yes, I have, and cleaned it and it was brass and in great shape. I flushed the block, pulled the 3 lower freeze plugs, rodded this out, flushed with warm water and pressure washer.

When I backflushed the block yeeterday, no crud flowed out, just clear water, not sure if that means non is in the water jacket, or if the flushing with the hose wan't good enough............fred

[greg g]

Fred you have checked just about everything you can but maybe two things.Have you checked the condition and operation of the thermostat? and have you checked the airflow through the radiator? Is all you front sheet metal inplace to direct the air coming through the grill through the radiator? does your car have the pieces on the tp of the radiator to deal against the hood?

Check the radiator with a lamp to make sure you can see through all areas of the core. If its is out just hold it up to the light and see if there are any portions of the core that may be blocked. Try running it with out the thermostat and see what happens. If I have read all your post you have never actually over heated. You mention 200, but yu had part of the rad blocked, and said it returned to lower temp when you pulled the cardboard.

212 with water spewing out of the relief pipe is overheating. You also mentioned you can take the cap off bare handed. This doesn't seem to square with an overheat problem.

Get a different gauge or check the one you have by pulling the bulb, heating up some water, put the bulb and a know good thermometer in some water heated up on the stove and compare the readings.

The heat riser will have only a minimal effect on coolant temp. But to assure it is not a factor trun it all the way clockwise and clamp or wire it i that position for a test.

[55 Fargo]

Greg, If I would driven further , there is no doubt it would have boiled over. I have tested the tempgauge, it is reading over about 5 degrees, but verified the temp of the water in the top of the rad with a meat thermometer, it was reading 195 when the temp gauge read 205, this was on Saturday.

My sheetmetal is all in place, I do not have the seal for the top of the rad.

If it were 80 and over , I can see the temp going up, but not on a 70 degree dry day, with a brisk wind.

I was driving with the wind, that does not make for a good air flow to the rad either.

My heatriser is siezed, I cannot turn it, not sure of its position.

The cardboard over the rad, was done on a -2 degree day, the temp shot up to 200, I then removed the cardboard, the temp came right down, but thats a -2 day. But heat transfer may be an issue with this rad, even though the flow is good, possibly, but I doubt it

I can also see throught the rad no problem, it is very clean.............Thanx Greg

[RobertKB]

Fred, I don't recall seeing what you have your timing set at after all these posts. Should be around 2-3 degrees BTDC. Guessing at it does not help as my '38 sounded great and ran great but when I recently checked it was more like 8-10 BTDC. There was no pinging but when I set the time back it ran quite a bit cooler. I am with Tim on this one, make sure it is timed accurately!

[Normspeed]

I don't think the heat riser would cause the problem.

[Don Coatney]

Greg, If I would driven further , there is no doubt it would have boiled over.

I assume you know that your radiator will boil over every time if you fill it to the top. This is normal. You need to let it boil over as the coolant level in the radiator will then find its own level.

Beg borrow or steal a timing light and make sure your timing is not set over 2 degrees advance at idle. Then drive your car. I really dont think you have a problem.

[JIPJOBXX]

I kind of agree with Norm as my old Dodge runs a little hot on warm days. I was a bit concerned but its never boiled over but my temp gage would be in the 190's and as soon as I dropped my speed the temp would go down. Why not just see if it boils over? Carry some extra water and if does than back to square one.

I did see something down at a parts store where they can test your cooling water for traces of oil or gas by the fumes. If you have a good parts store in the area maybe they might just test your rig for free.

Best of luck with your heating problem-Jon

[Lou Earle]

I reading your attempts at fixing the heating problem it appears that this is an ongoing problem- it happens every year correct?

Check your fan belt for tightness-slipping can cause this.

I had a 34 engine doing the same thing and as soon as I mentioned the symptoms an old hand a flathead plyms told me to remove the freeze plug in the HEAD- I did not even recall one there -it there drivers side rear. He said that turn there grabs sludge and holds it -I did and got about 1/3 cup of hard crud out with water, air hose coat hanger anything that got in there. That solved the problem.

As for cleaning radiator I use - on recommendation of counter man at parts store- automatic dish washing detergent- electrala sol calgonite etc- it has a de greaser and is non foaming- I put in about a cup and just run it for a some tine just driving or at fast idle in driveway and drain.

Also to check the impeller loosen the fan belt and try and turn the fan hard- . Also depending in the type impeller a blade can be busted off-on the 3 to 6 blade type I think the 2 big blades are better myself.

Hope this helps

Lou

[55 Fargo]

Thanx Lou, I agoing to try that, did you read my update post.

Last night pulled off the water pump, it is fine, its the 2 blade impellor type. I also pulled the water tube, it was clean as a whistle.

Probed the back of the head in the temp gauge hole, no crud or lodging in there. Did the same thing in the block drain hole , a small amout of fine pepper loooking particles, kinda looks like the rad stop leak I used in there last year to fix a leak, I ended up fixin it the right way.

Gonna take the rad in today, and have it checked out..........Thanx Fred