Engine Troubles

[sam knopik]

I was cleaning off the engine, sprayed it with degreaser, took at it with a copper brush and sprung a leak in the side! Figured out it was anti-freeze.

1) Did I screw-up by cleaning with a copper brush and is the engine that soft?

2) What do I do now?

Any advice apprecitated

[Young Ed]

Where is it leaking from? The actual block or one of the core plugs? No way could you hurt the cast iron with a brush but you could destroy an already weak core plug.

[sam knopik]

Yes, It was a core plug, on the oil filter side about half way down, almost right behind the oil intake shaft.

[Young Ed]

I would think it was on its way out already. Consider yourself fortunate for breaking it in the garage instead of on the road. I would check the other ones too. And while you have this one and others out give the water jacket a good flushing.

[wayfarerstranger]

hello i have a truck engine from the early 50`s in one of my cars # t306*I0800* someone one said it was a 218 but i thought all the dodge engines after 1949 were 230`s can someone clear this up thanx CHANCE

[Merle Coggins]

U.S. 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks had 218's. 1 tons had 230's. Larger trucks used the long block engines in many different displacements.

[sam knopik]

Ed,

Thanks. I tapped it out and man was there some gunk in there. I flushed it out with a hose and ran my finger around it trying to pull out as much debris as I could. Do all those plugs give access to the coolant chamber, or water jacket? (I don't even know what it's called.) I could not find a diagram that showed the cooling system beyond the water pump.

When installing the new plugs do I just set them in and tap them in with a hammer? Is there a gasket with it?

I learned something today! Thanks Ed.

Sam

[Young Ed]

No gasket but you can put some permatex on it to help seal. Yes they all lead to the water jacket. If you ahve lots of gunk behind that one I would do the other 2 lower ones as well. I believe you set the plugs in and strike with a hammer but honestly I've never installed one. Hopefully someone else will confirm this. Try searching the forum for frost plugs too. I know its been covered on the car side.

[MBF]

If these are the convex type that go up against a lip in the block I believe you work them in until they touch the lip and thenin and then hit them in the center to set them. I did a set in a Chev v-8 a long time ago and I don't remember which type they were. To remove the old ones you can drill a hole in the center of the plug and then stick a punch in the hole to pry them out. I would definately give that block a good flushing with the plugs removed. If you haven't had it on the road, you may want to check the radiator too. Mike

[Merle Coggins]

Good advice from these guys. I just wanted to add a couple of things. When you pull out all of the core plugs to flush the block, you may also want to remove the drain petcock on the left side so that you can get as much out as possible. You'll probably gat a lot of crap out of the water jacket. That seems to be normal.

When installing the new plugs I'd use some type of sealant around the outer edge. I use Permatex #9 Tack and Seal. #2 Permatex (the brown snotty stuff) would also work well. I'd stay away from RTV silicone, It may work OK, I just don't like it for that application. (that's just my opinion) Carefully tap the pluggs into the hole, with the domed side facing out, until they seat against the ridge at the back of the hole. To set the plugs I've used a couple of methods depending on how accessable they are. If you try to smack them directly with a hammer it's easy to miss the middle and they won't set properly. I will either set the ball side of a ball-peen hammer against the center of the plug, then hit the hammer with another hammer. Or I've also used a brass drift or punch with a very blunt end, set against the center of the plug and smack it with a hammer. The idea here is to dimple the center of the plug which will try to flatten it out and make it fit tightly into the block.

Good luck, sounds like you're on the right track.

Merle

[48WingNut]

Another way of inserting the plugs is to use a socket that is a little smaller than the inside of the plug and tap it in. Helps to drive it in more evenly. Just a thought.

[Andydodge]

If you haven't got a brass drift, you can use an old 3/8-7/16 bolt, an old head bolt works, sit it in the centre of the plug and a couple of hard hits should dimple/flatten the plug enough, some Permatex or similar helps to ensure a seal but shouldn't be necessary if the seat in the block is clean, also I always replace steel welsh plugs with brass ones, never rust out........andyd

[Bill pilot99]

If you are going to do all the plugs, you may just go all the way and pull the water distribution tube . The rear cylinders may not getting enough coolent.

Just my 2 cents worth !!

[sam knopik]

OK. I popped out the 5 plugs on the left side, and have flushed out the water jacket the best I can. I removed the inlet pipe to look at the thermostat. Cleaned all that stuff out and even though I dont think the thermostat is bad (I put it in a boiling pot of water to watch it open) I got new one when I went to O'rielies for the plugs.

The plugs look the exact same size as the old ones but I'm having trouble getting them seated in order to punch them in securely. The size I bought were 1 5/8. Does anyone have a part number for these or know if the size is right?

[Plymouthy Adams]

these crowned discs..(not cupped) are the only ones you use..the disc seals into the first step of the opening..clean the casting real well..most like to use a sealant like non hardening permatex #2 I think it is. once seated with the crown out, you whack it to flatten the crown, this act to enlargen the overall size of the disc as it rolls and seals against the block. These can be very hard to get a good straight even whack due to other items preventing a good healthy blow with the hammer..having access to a tool designed for the seating of freeze plugs would be a help

[48Dodger]

These can be very hard to get a good straight even whack due to other items preventing a good healthy blow with the hammer..having access to a tool designed for the seating of freeze plugs would be a help

You got me thinking Tim. I've always used a socket and ball pean hammer for my freeze plugs. So I went looking for the right tool. I found this and bought one. Guess you hook it up to your air hammer (hand held).

48D

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Freeze-Plug-Removal-Installer-Kit-Professional-tool_W0QQitemZ380010170382QQcmdZViewItem

[Don Coatney]

You got me thinking Tim. I've always used a socket and ball pean hammer

for my freeze plugs. So I went looking for the right tool. I found this and bought one.

Guess you hook it up to your air hammer (hand held).

48D

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Freeze-Plug-Removal-Installer-Kit-Professional-tool_W0QQitemZ380010170382QQcmdZViewItem

I have never seen a tool like that and I cannot see how it works.

Pictured below is the correct welsh plug for Mopar flathead 6

engines. For the side of the block 1 5/8" is the correct size.

This is the compound I use when installing them.

[48Dodger]

From what I can tell, you put the plug in, set the adapter over it, then put the ball end of the drive shaft in the adapter and use an air hammer to git the plug in...I guess. Haven't got it yet and never seen one either. I would think you could skip the drive shaft if you have the engine out. seems the drive shaft is bent so you can use the swivel and socket to get around the tough spots when its in the car. Maybe its just for cup plugs?

48D:confused:

[Don Coatney]

Maybe its just for cup plugs?

48D:confused:

I suspect that is the case.

[sam knopik]

Don,

Very helpful. Thanks.

Sam