OUTFXD Posted January 1 Report Posted January 1 Anyone have any experience with these? Last I heard 6V LEDs where junk. https://www.ebay.com/itm/176062383163?mkevt=1&mkpid=2&emsid=e90001.m161799.l174484&plmtId=700008&mesgId=3015&mkcid=8&ch=osgood&bu=44780323931&trkId=953f5779-c352-369d-be48-2cee33ce92e3&cnvId=700003&recoId=176062383163&recoPos=1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 1 Report Posted January 1 while the ad is marked DOT certified I am going out on a limb and saying certified illegal.....lol the lenses are no marked as such.....these fly by night sellers will do or say anything for a sale..... They marked H4 and still not DOT on the lens....the H4 lenses are NOT designed for LED bulbs.....I think you would be wasting your money and be a nuisance to you or others on the highway. 1 1 Quote
Solution Sniper Posted January 2 Solution Report Posted January 2 You would be better off going with this headlamp setup and putting 6 H4 bulbs in it https://www.amazon.com/OCTANE-LIGHTING-Halogen-Headlight-Headlamp/dp/B00GNTZ9SA 1 Quote
OUTFXD Posted January 2 Author Report Posted January 2 I also noticed that in item specifics the required voltage is listed as 12v ... 1 hour ago, Sniper said: You would be better off going with this headlamp setup That is one heck of a good deal! Thanks! Quote
Sniper Posted January 2 Report Posted January 2 52 minutes ago, OUTFXD said: That is one heck of a good deal! Thanks! You are welcome. The linked source was a bit slow getting mine to me, but I got it. I have not installed it yet so no idea if it's as quality as it seems, but being Toyota and from what others have said, I'll bet it is. I have GE LED headlights in my 51, this kit is going in my 65 Cuda. 1 Quote
martybose Posted January 2 Report Posted January 2 I'm a little late to the party, but I will say that back a couple of decades ago when my car was still 6V i bought a pair of motorcycle 6V LED headlights, and they were awesome! Marty 1 Quote
OUTFXD Posted January 15 Author Report Posted January 15 (edited) Okay, Got my Toyota endorsed headlight kit, Got my 6v H-4 bulbs. All sorts of ready to start installing. A thought occurred to me BEFORE I wv as neck deep in the project (A rarity for sure, but it DOES happen from time to time). I am Pro Relaying the headlights, especially as EVERYTHING (Horn, headlights, brake lights, EEVVEERRYTTHIHNNGG) goes through the ignition switch and I am keen to get some amperage AWAY from the switch. Will the relays that come with the kit work on a 6v system, would relaying the system require 6v special relays, or am I totally safe Plug and playing the existing the new bulbs into my existing harness? Edit : Read further down the thread posted by Sniper and read about relay issues caused to Sam Buchanan and ended up ordering the Bosch 6V relays. Edited January 16 by OUTFXD Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted January 16 Report Posted January 16 2 hours ago, OUTFXD said: Okay, Got my Toyota endorsed headlight kit, Got my 6v H-4 bulbs. All sorts of ready to start installing. A thought occurred to me BEFORE I wv as neck deep in the project (A rarity for sure, but it DOES happen from time to time). I am Pro Relaying the headlights, especially as EVERYTHING (Horn, headlights, brake lights, EEVVEERRYTTHIHNNGG) goes through the ignition switch and I am keen to get some amperage AWAY from the switch. Will the relays that come with the kit work on a 6v system, would relaying the system require 6v special relays, or am I totally safe Plug and playing the existing the new bulbs into my existing harness? Edit : Read further down the thread posted by Sniper and read about relay issues caused to Sam Buchanan and ended up ordering the Bosch 6V relays. With 6v bulbs and relays you should be ready to start installation. Get a good ratcheting crimper, a bunch of butt splices and a spool of 12g wire so you can modify the harness as needed. Yes, getting high current off the ignition and headlight switch is a prime reason to do the upgrade. https://tinyurl.com/558cus9s 1 Quote
Saskwatch Posted January 16 Report Posted January 16 Please keep us posted OUTFXD step by step !! 👍👍 2 Quote
OUTFXD Posted January 21 Author Report Posted January 21 Okay, I am almost through Gathering parts. Question hit me. I know "Electricity doesnt care which way its going" What about Relays and H-4 Bulbs? Do I need to wire things backwards (Positive Hot Negative Ground) or is just matching red to red and black to black sufficient? Quote
LazyK Posted January 22 Report Posted January 22 6 hours ago, OUTFXD said: Okay, I am almost through Gathering parts. Question hit me. I know "Electricity doesnt care which way its going" What about Relays and H-4 Bulbs? Do I need to wire things backwards (Positive Hot Negative Ground) or is just matching red to red and black to black sufficient? In general relays and lamps are not polarity sensitive. 1 Quote
Sniper Posted January 22 Report Posted January 22 Lots of DC relays have a diode in them to prevent back EMF. Those are polarity sensitive and generally have a diode inked on the case. You can see it in the pic, between 85 and 86, the triangle and line pic. positive had better be on the 86 terminal. 1 1 Quote
Merle Coggins Posted January 22 Report Posted January 22 The diode is those type of relays is a quenching diode that is used to protect the switching circuit from arcing. Maybe that's just another way of saying what Sniper said, "to prevent back EMF". Some relays use a resistor for this purpose. Those with the resistor wouldn't be polarity sensitive, but the diode ones certainly are. 1 1 Quote
Sniper Posted January 22 Report Posted January 22 Yes, arcing, back EMF, etc are simply two ways of saying noise on the line. Probably not a real issue with most of our rides, after all we have virtually no electronics in the car, But nonetheless, if you have that style relay polarity is important on the 85 and 86 terminals. Since those terminals are isolated from the chassis ground it shouldn't be a problem regardless of chassis ground polarity. 1 Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted January 22 Report Posted January 22 (edited) The H4 halogen bulbs don't care which way they are wired. Can't see any reason why you can't connect the relays the same way regardless of battery polarity. This is the relay I used and it doesn't appear to have a diode so it could be hooked up either way. However.........be sure you know which wires do what, some carry load and others carry the signal. Study the schematic pasted below until you understand how this works. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G9VXC1B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 Here is the post describing how I wired the relays in the P15: https://p15-d24.com/topic/61778-high-quality-h4-headlights-for-12v-cars-cheap/page/2/#findComment-665037 Edited January 22 by Sam Buchanan 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 22 Report Posted January 22 (edited) Polarity is important with LED..not incandescent Edited January 22 by Plymouthy Adams 1 1 Quote
Sniper Posted January 22 Report Posted January 22 9 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said: Polarity is important with LED..not incandescent Yes, LED means Light Emitting Diode. Diodes are polarity sensitive. Now it might be possible the bulb assembly has a circuit in it to ensure the diode portion of the bulb assembly only gets the proper polarity regardless of how you wire the socket. In which case, it does not matter. But I don't know that they do, or don't, for a fact. As a real quick check, don't assume it's universal to all, I looked up the specs on an LED 1157 bulb. This particular bulb is polarity sensitive. 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 22 Report Posted January 22 the question of using a 12 volt relay in a 6 volt circut.....clamping force for the output contact is you main concern to prevent early burn out due to light contact and possible overdraw of current and thermal runaway. So you have to make the call yourself. Here are some specs to guide you on the operational paramenter of the stock bosch mini relay (square one that re 30 and or 40 amp rated) General Specifications Bosch Part Number: 0332209150 Voltage: 12V Current: 30A SPDT Enclosure: Standard Cover W/Bracket Footprint: ISO 5 pin Coil Specifications Coil Operating Current: 160 mA Equivalent Coil Resistance: 69 - 80 Ohms Pull-in Voltage: 8 V Drop-out Voltage: 1.2 - 5 V Operating Conditions Operating Temperature: -40 - 100 C Humidity Test: 95% for 7 Days Salt Spray Test: 144 Hours Dust Test: 8 Days Life Tests Resitive Load - N/O: 30 A - 150,000 cycles Resitive Load - N/C: 20 A - 100,000 cycles Motor Load - N/O: 40 A - 150,000 cycles Motor Load - N/C: 15 A - 75,000 cycles Lamp Load - N/O: 30 A - 150,000 cycles Lamp Load - N/C: 15 A - 50,000 cycles Mechanical life: 1,000,000 cycles 1 Quote
Sniper Posted January 23 Report Posted January 23 With a pull in voltage of 8 and a drop out voltage of 1.2-5 the cited relay would be iffy in a "6v" system. Somewhere, someone posted the pn for a Bosch 6 relay, 0332204001 1 Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted January 23 Report Posted January 23 (edited) 1 hour ago, Sniper said: With a pull in voltage of 8 and a drop out voltage of 1.2-5 the cited relay would be iffy in a "6v" system. Somewhere, someone posted the pn for a Bosch 6 relay, 0332204001 The 6v Bosch-type relays I linked in my post above are working nicely in my P15. Another consideration is the Toyota harness is kinda undersize for 6v, it may function safely but I used 12g wire when installing/building the new 6v relays and lighting harness. Edited January 23 by Sam Buchanan 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 23 Report Posted January 23 (edited) exactly why I posted the above information......the clamping voltage is important...especially if your switched current is substantial.....this information has never been posted before that I know of and many will not take a minute to seek out specs and in their defense and often mine also....this info can be a bit hard to find on certain products, sometimes never..... Edited January 23 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
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