Bypass valve connector hose on flathead 6

[DeS-11]

Is there any kind of "shortcut" that is commonly used in replacing the bypass hose (between the bypass valve/tube housing and the thermostat housing) on the flathead sixes, or is taking off the bypass valve housing the way to do it? I ask only because, while it doesn't appear difficult to remove the housing, I'm a little concerned about the two bolts that probably haven't been moved in a very long time. 

[Doug&Deb]

If I remember correctly removing the housing is the only way.

[Sam Buchanan]

And if the housing comes apart in your hands as mine did new ones are available.

 

https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts/j_cooling/water-pump-bypass-elbow-w-gasket/

 

[desoto1939]

to replace the small 1 inch rubber hose for the by-pass you either remove the thermostat housing or the by-pass housing unit.  The hose is a very tight  fit in space so that is the best way to replace the hose.

 

When I did mine I also installed a shut off vale in the bypass unit so I could control all water flow from and to the heater. So I had a shutoff valve at the rear of the head by number 6 sparkplug and then one on the bypass adapter.

 

The reason is if I had to work on the heater i could then cut off the entire flow of water at these two point and then only have a small amt of water in the two hoses and in the heater and could drain the heater without draining the engine of AF and water.

 

Think ahead for future project and think about how much time this just saves.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[DeS-11]

Thanks for the replies. I was going to order a new gasket to have on hand for when the bypass housing was removed, but based on what Sam said, maybe I'll get a housing (that comes with the gasket) just in case mine should fall apart as well, or otherwise be in poor condition inside. And Rich, it looks like a previous owner did think ahead as you mentioned, as mine has valves already installed at both points. I had figured it to be factory, until I saw photos of most comparable engines with just a plain tube leading into the housing. So do these housing bolts tend to have issues when trying to remove them after they've been untouched for years or, possibly, decades?

[JBNeal]

On my first attempt to remove those 2 little bolts, the bypass housing flange ears busted all to pieces...not sure why, cuz I was taking my time and had applied Marvel Mystery Oil a few days prior, maybe that's just what they do.  Anyhow, a local weld shop fixed that, then a few years later, I scored several NORS bypass housings and gaskets on eBay...the seller mentioned that he sourced this haul from a long ago closed down service station that he was cleaning out, so maybe these housings were known to be a common failure back in the day. 

[desoto1939]

if i remember correctly these are cast housing so with that in mind I can see that they might get brittle and crack apart when taking them off.  Over the years I have obtained several of these housings.

 

Rich Hartung

 

[Sniper]

I dunno, there is a reason Mopar redesigned that setup. 

[Young Ed]

On 6/28/2024 at 7:52 PM, Sniper said:

I dunno, there is a reason Mopar redesigned that setup. 

But it is because it was better or cheaper to eliminate it

[Hickory]

You cant have engineers with nothing to do.

[Sniper]

20 hours ago, Young Ed said:

But it is because it was better or cheaper to eliminate it

 That is always the question.  Unfortunately, those people are not around to ask anymore.  So we get to play archeologist, lol.

 

But unlike the archaeologists that try to tell us how the pyramids were built, most of us have some knowledge of the matter at hand. 

 

Looking at what they replaced the original setup with I am going to go with both better and cheaper.  Better in the sense that it is less complex and simpler in design adn cheaper in that there are less parts involved to do the same thing.  A win/win.

[DeS-11]

(deleted--posted in error)

Edited July 26 by DeS-11