Rapid Onset Bumper Rust

[Wood and Steel]

Hi everyone, I've been noticing some rapidly worsening rust on my '51 Plymouth, particularly on the bumper guards, but also evident a couple of other places such as the part of the door handle that screws to the door. I've had the car for about 6 years now, and, although the chrome isn't perfect by any means, I've never had this problem. It's all developed within two months (with very little use since it's winter here in Indiana). 

 

The car is stored in a south facing car port. I don't drive it if there's any visible salt on the road, and I avoid driving in the rain. I haven't done anything to try to remove it yet because I didn't want to accidently cause damage. I haven't applied any sort of polish or wax to the chrome since I've owned the car, but it's always shined up nicely from a normal soapy wash.

 

So, what might be causing the rust, what's the best way to clean up what's already accumulated, and what can I do to prevent it in the future?

[Sniper]

Don't happen to have any muriatic acid in a leaky bottle anywhere around?  Similar happened to me when the wife stored some in the garage for the winter, it was used to balance the pool PH.

[Wood and Steel]

56 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Don't happen to have any muriatic acid in a leaky bottle anywhere around?  Similar happened to me when the wife stored some in the garage for the winter, it was used to balance the pool PH.

 

Nope. It's in an empty carport that's 80% covered on three sides, and has a concrete floor. There's nothing near it, but it is only about 12' from a somewhat busy road (speed limit 35).

[Eneto-55]

Our county here in Ohio is now using some sort of brine instead of salt, and people say it is worse than the rock salt they used to spread on the roads. Also, my point here is that they SPRAY it on.  If they are doing the same there in Indiana, maybe the wind is blowing it in your direction, or possibly what ever it is they use is being kicked up by passing vehicles.

 

Seem strange though, that there is such a noticeable difference between the bumper and the bumper guards.  I wonder if the bumper guards were made some place different, and were not tri-coat chrome (copper-nickel-chrome).  Back when we had cars with chrome on them, we rubbed it down after each car wash, with some sort of chrome polish that was commonly found at truck stops.  It was in a metal can, with something soaked into like shredded rags, or just lumps of string.  The idea is that chrome can develop pin holes, then the rust comes out and just spreads out over the surface.  Then when it's polished, you don't see any rust spots at all, they are so tiny.

[JerseyHarold]

To clean up the existing rust, I'd use 'XXXX' grade steel wool (the softest grade) with some WD-40 as a lubricant.  Then follow with a non-abrasive wax (like pure Carnuba) for protection.  The only way to really get rid of the rust would be to do a chrome strip and replate...very pricey.

[p15-1948]

1 hour ago, JerseyHarold said:

To clean up the existing rust, I'd use 'XXXX' grade steel wool (the softest grade) with some WD-40 as a lubricant.  Then follow with a non-abrasive wax (like pure Carnuba) for protection.  The only way to really get rid of the rust would be to do a chrome strip and replate...very pricey.

I'd do like Jersey, but use chrome polish with the 0000 steel wool rather than WD-40.  Then follow with a good quality wax...several coats.

[DonaldSmith]

1951?  Korean War?  Chromium and other metals needed for the "police action"?  Chrome going on thin? 

Likely the bumper guards got less of the good stuff than the bumpers.  

[Dan Hiebert]

I had the same issue with rust when we lived in Michigan and New York, not so much here in Maine since we're over 100' from a not so busy road.  Whatever is used for de-icing the roads turns to dust, that dust gets carried on the draft created by passing vehicles, even at 35 mph, and you're pretty close to the road.  Humidity makes that dust stick to things, especially metal.  The salt or calcium chloride then does what it does to metal.  There can be more humidity in winter than folks realize, for example, it's 20 degrees here now, but we still have 86% humidity.  Even come springtime there will be a fine layer of that dust on everything, then when the humidity really kicks in - presto - rust.  That'll happen when it "warms up" during the winter as well, especially if the car stays really cold while it warms up around it.   

 

Ditto cleaning methods listed above.  I use 0000 steel wool and either chrome polish or Brasso (leaning away from Brasso lately because they changed their formula to having more abrasives in it, it cleans well, but makes brass hazy now).  What's important is that coat of wax afterwards.

[Plymouthy Adams]

oxalic acid for chrome...

[DJ194950]

Remove the rust by rubbing with some wadded up aluminum foil.

 

Takes some elbow grease but does work well.  Yes I have done it on a 47 Plymouth with rusty spot lights.

 

Follow up with waxes as mentioned to keep it shiny.

 

DJ