Motor In - now a 236!

[Bob Riding]

Well after a summer rebuild (by me), I finally dropped the '56 230 motor into the chassis.  The motor is bored .040 over, with new pistons, cleaned up valves, all new bearings, valve springs, etc. I'm running the "Power Pack" intake, (just like @Loren) stock 2 bbl WW Stromberg carb, Langdon mini HEI and split exhaust. I installed a 12 volt alternator,  the stock rebuilt 3 spd, and 3:73 Ford Ranger rear end (no more lefty tighty, righty loosey). I've also installed a PCV valve in place of the draft tube and will tie it into the air cleaner.

It's time to install the fuel lines and gas tank. Using my parts wagon as a template, steel fuel lines are plumbed from the carb to the fuel pump, then a short section of rubber fuel line, then back to steel. What's the purpose of the rubber- as a vibration dampener?

Edited November 19, 2023 by Bob Riding

[kencombs]

The engine moves when running and driving.   The rubber protects the steel from work hardening and cracking.

[Bob Riding]

That's what I figured, thanks!

 

[Ivan_B]

Motor in? Looks more like the motor is on, based upon the available illustrations ?

Are you planning to do a cold break-in? I've read that this is really useful, especially with all the fluids and everything else connected. This way, you can listen for any odd noises, and make sure that nothing is leaking anywhere it is not supposed to.

[Bob Riding]

Hi Ivan. Not sure what a cold break-in is. I was planning to hook up fuel, water and electrical. What else?

 

[Ivan_B]

A cold break-in is when you hook up an electrical motor to your engine and spin it, for a certain period of time, at a certain speed, simulating working conditions but without the engine actually running. Maybe I am not using the correct terminology here.

This is usually done on a special stand, but can be performed with the engine sitting in a frame as well.

Edited November 20, 2023 by Ivan_B

[keithb7]

Yay! Congrats on all the great engine rebuild progress. I am questioning the need for a cold break-in. Did you apply that super slippery oil to all your crank, rod and cam bearings? 

[Ivan_B]

5 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

I am questioning the need for a cold break-in.

Well, it's just a thought if you have a powerful electric motor sitting around

I know for sure that some manufacturers used to do this in the past with engines and other gear. I've even read the instructions for doing so on a rebuilt gearbox, in the military repair shop manual, for QA process. You were supposed to set the box on a stand, and hit it at different RPMs, for a set period of time, shifting gears, etc., to confirm that it shifts smooth, makes no noise and is not leaking.

[keithb7]

At my place of employment we rebuild large diesel engines and powertrain components. We do spIn-up the powershift transmissions and torques on a large hydraulic test bench. We bring hydraulic pressures up to operating specs. We shift through all the gears. Test all the pressures, reliefs, shift valves, solenoids etc. 

 

Your cold break-in sounds similar. I’ve personally never heard of it being done on a fresh engine rebuild. 

 

The fresh engine rebuilds that we do, we pressure lube everything. Soak everything down inside there, forcing oil through all the oil galleries. Then we dyno them. We  break them in, then we full-load test and tune them to maximum rated horsepower and torque. 
 

We recently got new engine dyno that can handle 2,750 HP.  A big engine for us is the 5,187 ci engine. (85L). Its fun to stick your head in the dyno booth when one of those bad boys in under full load. 4 large turbos wailing. I glance at the monitoring gages.  The fuel burn rate is about 1L of fuel per minute per cylinder. Its a 16 cylinder. In total that’s 4.22 US gallons per minute for that portion of the dyno test. 

 

 

 

Edited November 20, 2023 by keithb7

[Ivan_B]

45 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

Its fun to stick your head in the dyno booth when one of those bad boys in under full load.

Keith, that does sound exciting. For some reason, I thought you were retired, after watching some of your tube videos. No offense, you just look like a person who has some extra time on their hands ?

I did try to look-up the engine cold-spin process, but did not find anything except the Spintron. But that seems to be a research/testing tool, not exactly for the break-in process.

 

The fresh engine does look well; so if all of the internal parts are up to specs, I am sure it will work as expected for a long time

Edited November 20, 2023 by Ivan_B

[DJK]

Looking great, any details on your PCV set-up?

[Saskwatch]

1 hour ago, DJK said:

 

Looking great, any details on your PCV set-up?

 

Yes, what DJ said ……. Down right Handsome engine there Bob ! 
  When you have time , would be most interested to read more on your PCV set-up ! ?

[Bob Riding]

13 hours ago, keithb7 said:

Yay! Congrats on all the great engine rebuild progress. I am questioning the need for a cold break-in. Did you apply that super slippery oil to all your crank, rod and cam bearings? 

Yes, the white assembly lube. I also put standard 30W oil in the crankcase. So should I pack the oil pump with assembly lube, vaseline, or submerge it in oil before the start?

 

[Bob Riding]

1 hour ago, Saskwatch said:

Yes, what DJ said ……. Down right Handsome engine there Bob ! 
  When you have time , would be most interested to read more on your PCV set-up ! ?

Be happy to. I'll get to it tomorrow- watching the grandkids today 

[kencombs]

52 minutes ago, Bob Riding said:

Yes, the white assembly lube. I also put standard 30W oil in the crankcase. So should I pack the oil pump with assembly lube, vaseline, or submerge it in oil before the start?

 

I've used vaseline since the 60s.  Always worked for me.   First started this when working on the little aluminum Buick v8s.  They had the pump in the front cover and the pickup in the rear.   Factory speced a vaseline pack and without it they took forever to pickup the oil from way back there!   Found that it helped with Ford y-blocks which also have a pretty long pickup tube.

 

Vaseline will stay in place indefinetely, unlike oil which may seep away from the gear spaces when not started right away.

Edited November 20, 2023 by kencombs

[keithb7]

Definitely get that oil pump bled and primed. Then after that, once installed, pull the coil wire and crank the engine over until you see oil pressure climbing on the gauge. Then you can proceed to let the engine fire and run. 

[Bob Riding]

On 11/20/2023 at 6:29 AM, Saskwatch said:

Yes, what DJ said ……. Down right Handsome engine there Bob ! 
  When you have time , would be most interested to read more on your PCV set-up ! ?

Check out this PCV thread from March. I followed @Loren 's example.

Oil Breather Cap Styles

[Bob Riding]

Here's Mopar's version:

air_cleaner1.pdfinstructions.pdfp17_p18.pdfair_cleaner2.pdfp15.pdf

[Booger]

congratulations Bob this is a great post. ground up restoration very skilled. and not all of us have the means space and time to pull this off!

Tip of the hat to you

[Bob Riding]

15 hours ago, Booger said:

congratulations Bob this is a great post. ground up restoration very skilled. and not all of us have the means space and time to pull this off!

Tip of the hat to you

Thanks for the nice compliment Booger-

I am privileged to

1) be retired with some spending $,

2) live out in the country where I was able to build a nice shop

3) be married to an understanding woman (cars were big in her family)

4) be allowed to part of of this GREAT group!

Honestly, if I wasn't able to read, learn and pick all of your brains, and see all the different projects and perspectives from P15D24 Forum members, I know I wouldn't have gotten as far as I have, nor had as much fun! 

[Bob Ritter]

Bob I'm curious as to why you relocated front shocks? My project car is in the same stage with getting ready to install the body back on. I made all my brake and gas lines, the hardest part was learning how double flare, plus I was able to install an electric fuel pump. I also look for ways to improve the workings of my car that's why I'm curious about the shock bracket. Best of luck with your project...

[Bob Riding]

Good job on your progress- yeah, double flares can be a b*&^!

The shock relocation is an easy mod if you can weld or know a decent welder. Supposedly make quite a difference. I used Rusty Hope's front shock mounts. Rusty Hope.

Check out my thread from March: Finally Installed Rusty Hope's Front Shock Mounts!