Carburetor Leak

[Labrauer]

Hey guys on my 48 P15 Plymouth I have a dripping of gas from the DOG carburetor throttle shaft 14-38-14 that I need some information on how to get it to stop leaking or if there is some kind of rubber or gasket that has failed. It's at the shaft that goes through the flange assy 14-33-1 on the ROD 14-39-28 side. I see that there is a spring washer 14-54-10 that is there. In my book I don't see any kind of gasket or rubber washer that goes there. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thank in advance,

Labrauer

[Sniper]

If you have gas dripping there odds are the float isn't doing it's job.  Bet if you took the air cleaner off you would see gas inside the carb throat too.  Time for a good cleaning and rebuild of your carb.

[LeRoy]

23 hours ago, Sniper said:

If you have gas dripping there odds are the float isn't doing it's job.  Bet if you took the air cleaner off you would see gas inside the carb throat too.  Time for a good cleaning and rebuild of your carb.

On my recent road trip I began having intermittent float/needle & seat trouble. It would operate great for 5 min then something would stick and flood the carb. I watched it operate at idle for about 10 minutes when it suddenly squirted gas out the overflow and dashpot passage in the top of the float bowl. I did a parking lot inspection/rebuild with no luck so I swapped carbs and will take a deeper look at the offender when time permits. 

 

One thing I discovered during all this is the performance of the 2 carbs is considerably different despite being identical as far as I can tell, the one w/sticky float is much is stronger and smoother running (right up till it floods) 

Edited February 27, 2023 by LeRoy

[Labrauer]

Today I went ahead and put the mechanical gas pump on the car and turned the switch off the electric pump I was using full time. So far I have no leaking where it was leaking. I  don't know if the electrical pump was pumping to much gas to the carburetor or what but the leak has stopped and that puts a smile ? back on my face. I'll let you know after I drive it a couple of days 

[Dave72dt]

A majority of over the counter electric pumps will run in the 6 to 7 pound pressure range which is borderline for most carbs and usually too much for the older, single barrel ones.  You can get a low pressure 2 to 3 pound pump or add an adjustable fuel pressure regulator if you find the mechanical doesn't overflow the carb and you want to retain the electric as a standby.

[Labrauer]

Dave72dt thanks for the information I may have to get one of those fuel pressure regulators if I have to go back to the electric pump again but sense I put the new mechanical pump on the car the carb. hasn't leaked. Maybe i should go ahead and purchase one just in case the mechanical one leaves me on the side of the road one day.

Thank you for the response 

[Mark G]

I had the same problem with my MG Midget original fuel pump went south so I put an aftermarket f/pump start pushing fuel out of the vent the cure was a Holley pressure regulator set to 3PSI all better sorry for mentioning I also have a MG LOL Holley makes many regulators make sure to get the low pressure model the number escapes as I write this you will need a gauge to set it to the correct pressure

[Labrauer]

Well people I thought I had the problem solved with the carburetor leak by buying a new fuel pump and installing on the 230 and it did work just fine with no leaks for a week or so. Now driving today down the highway the car started to jump like it was starving for gas and started to die so I flipped the switch on the electric pump and the car picked up and ran fine. Drove it about three more miles down the road then switched it off to use mechanical one again and low and behold the same problem again. By the way the fuel line from fuel pump on the engine to the carb is insulated with the exhaust wrap and then wrapped with a rubber tape so I know it isn't vapor lock that's happening. Last time I reran the fuel line away from the exhaust a long the inter fender. People this is a new pump that is only maybe three weeks old when it was received from Andy Burnham Plymouth Parts. Could it be possible that the pump they sent was bad or what and not one but two. I don't want it to sound like I'm bashing Andy's parts because I'm not "Lets make that clear" but the same thing happened to the one before I purchased from them that's why I installed the electrical one in the first place. Are the parts we buy from different places to replace worn out parts on our cars these days not up to the specs that are needed. The carb on the car is also only about a year old that George Ache built for me. "Love that guy." I just want the car to be reliable and not leave me on the side of the road simply because I love driving it and it is an every day driver. I am frustrated and just want some more advice from people on solutions. I can and will try any suggestions if I can afford it.

[Sniper]

You are assuming it's a fuel pump issue.  How old are the fuel hoses? 

[Labrauer]

Well people I thought I had the problem solved with the carburetor leak by buying a new fuel pump and installing on the 230 and it did work just fine with no leaks for a week or so. Now driving today down the highway the car started to jump like it was starving for gas and started to die so I flipped the switch on the electric pump and the car picked up and ran fine. Drove it about three more miles down the road then switched it off to use mechanical one again and low and behold the same problem again. By the way the fuel line from fuel pump on the engine to the carb is insulated with the exhaust wrap and then wrapped with a rubber tape so I know it isn't vapor lock that's happening. Last time I reran the fuel line away from the exhaust a long the inter fender. People this is a new pump that is only maybe three weeks old when it was received from Andy Burnham Plymouth Parts. Could it be possible that the pump they sent was bad or what and not one but two. I don't want it to sound like I'm bashing Andy's parts because I'm not "Lets make that clear" but the same thing happened to the one before I purchased from them that's why I installed the electrical one in the first place. Are the parts we buy from different places to replace worn out parts on our cars these days not up to the specs that are needed. The carb on the car is also only about a year old that George Ache built for me. "Love that guy." I just want the car to be reliable and not leave me on the side of the road simply because I love driving it and it is an every day driver. I am frustrated and just want some more advice from people on solutions. I can and will try any suggestions if I can afford it.

 

Well you know I am not sure I'm going to say I replaced them when I moved the fuel line to the fender but the one that comes from the pump is metal that goes up to the bowl I installed on the upper inside of fender in order to replace the fuel filter easier. Right now I have no filter installed in the bowl just haven't gotten the new one yet. Now the hose from that bowl to the carb being about 12 to 18 inches long I would have to guess two or maybe three years old and I am only guessing at this. The hose still feels firm to the touch and doesn't feel pliable like you could kink it if you know what I mean.  

[Los_Control]

In my understanding of vapor lock, does not occur while driving down the highway. It would appear when driving slow in town, or from heat soak when you shut the engine off at the grocery store.

 

Going down the road at wide open  throttle 45 mph .... you will not experience vapor lock  

 

What it sounds like is you have a fuel delivery problem .... As @Sniper is asking, how old or what condition is your lines, the fuel pickup in your tank .... If you have a small pinhole leak in a metal line, it will pick up air & cause your problem. A rusty tank & picking up crap clogging the line .... A old rubber hose that is collapsing on the inside  .... You really need to evaluate your fuel system to see where it is failing...... Do you have new fuel lines & a leaky connection?

 

Frustrating, but the things we go through to drive a old car.

 

Trust me, you will get your chance to experience vapor lock later ..... this is not it.

[Labrauer]

It's a little after 9 tonight and I went by the auto parts store and bought a new fuel hose to put on the car, with that being said I have replaced it just now. Started the car and I see nor hear any leaks. Tomorrow I'll drive and see if this has helped hopefully it did got my fingers crossed I'll report back sometime tomorrow evening to let everyone know the outcome. Thanks for the replies.  

[soth122003]

The fuel pumps you got from Andy B's, were they NOS? Were the diaphrams upgraded to the ethanol resistant ones? As for the fuel line, what about the short one from the fuel tank line to the input of the fuel pump? That's usually the one that goes bad and is often overlooked, especially with the P.S.I. difference between the mech and electric fuel pump.

 

Joe Lee

[Labrauer]

Is it possible guys that I put a bowl on the fender just like the one on the mechanical fuel pump being that there is gas full in the fuel pump bowl and the one on the fender of the car? Since I started having this problem I don't have a fuel filter in either bowl until I figure out the problem. Oh by the way I did change the fuel hose to the carb the other lines are metal lines all the way up to the bowl on the fender. The fuel tank is fairly new only about 3 or 4 years old and at that time I replaced all the lines from the tank to the carb. Is there a way to test to see if there is a pin hole along those steel lines with some kind of gauged. I looked all over the lines and don't see anywhere where it looks like a leaking line nor any kind of a gas stain. The lines all have been enclosed in the wire loom type plastic so they won't get rubbed against the frame or the clips causing a hole. Anyway we are still fighting the battle. Did the same thing today. Thanks for the help and replies.  

[vintage6t]

6 hours ago, Labrauer said:

Is it possible guys that I put a bowl on the fender just like the one on the mechanical fuel pump being that there is gas full in the fuel pump bowl and the one on the fender of the car? Since I started having this problem I don't have a fuel filter in either bowl until I figure out the problem. Oh by the way I did change the fuel hose to the carb the other lines are metal lines all the way up to the bowl on the fender. The fuel tank is fairly new only about 3 or 4 years old and at that time I replaced all the lines from the tank to the carb. Is there a way to test to see if there is a pin hole along those steel lines with some kind of gauged. I looked all over the lines and don't see anywhere where it looks like a leaking line nor any kind of a gas stain. The lines all have been enclosed in the wire loom type plastic so they won't get rubbed against the frame or the clips causing a hole. Anyway we are still fighting the battle. Did the same thing today. Thanks for the help and replies.  

 

I wouldn't run it,  even temporarily, without a dual filter of some sort. IMO an inline before the fuel pump is best. I'm not saying this is your problem but it only takes a minuscule particle of debris lodged in your float valve to make it leak. That in turn can overflow gas into the carb making look leaky. If the particle gets by the float valve it can cause clogs elsewhere in the carb making it operate horribly.