clutch & brake pedal hitting floor boards

[Mark G]

I'am getting around to installing the floor panels back into the 46 WC I'am working on. It seems the pedals are hitting the floor panels. Does the clutch pedal have a bushing the wears ? it feels sloppy on the clutch shaft and the clutch arm seems like it goes back too far on the t/o bearing. I know the pedal has 2 adjustment nuts to move its placement on the shaft I've got the 2 return springs to bring the pedals back 1 for clutch- 1 for brake 

[Merle Coggins]

I believe your truck is setup the same as the later B-series. There is no bushing in the clutch pedal, but they do tent to wear and get a bit of side-to-side movement, allowing the pedal arm to rub against the floor. Some have had success with removing the pedal and boring it round again and putting in a bushing to take up the play. Others just put a nylon rubbing block on the floor board for the pedal to rub against. 

[Los_Control]

I recently made a thread on this when I installed a bushing in mine. Thank You @Merle Cogginsfor the help 

I bought the bushing from DCM .... Seems it is in question if the factory ever installed a bushing .... mine never had one.

 

First I cut the bushing for length.

Then I needed to use my dremel & cut down the length of the bushing,  just about the thickness of a regular cutting disk ... I used a mini disk with 3 passes.

This allowed the bushing to fit tight on the shaft while decreasing the outside diameter of the bushing.

 

Then I used a die grinder and slowly hogged out the pedal to make it round again and open it up to allow the bushing to be tapped in with a hammer.

 

Very crude machining, the end result was very satisfactory. There is still a little side to side play, but less then the brake pedal has. .... 100% improvement.

 

Side note, I saw Ace hardware sells generic sized bushings .... since DCM is not a direct fit & needs modified, you might be able to grab one from Ace or tractor supply.

 

 

[Mark G]

thank you guys the truck I'am working on is sloppy side to side the bushing idea seems like it worked pretty well in fixing the side to side wobbly I also have a problem with the pedals hitting the rear of the floor boards like they are not "centered" in the cutouts for the pedal travel area, I have not spent too much time on to yet as most of the truck parts all came in a big pile of boxes & crates. this was a stalled restoration that I now get to put back together  and hopefully get running again. Any thoughts on this problem I'm going to clean up the adjusting screws on the clutch pedal today after the garage warms up LOL I"ll try & take some pics to see if that helps to explain my problem thanks

[Los_Control]

10 minutes ago, Mark G said:

I also have a problem with the pedals hitting the rear of the floor boards like they are not "centered" in the cutouts for the pedal travel area,

I remember my clutch pedal rubbed on the side of the toe board before I started working on the truck. Not anywhere else.

 

If yours are hitting the toe boards .... There are locating holes on the cab floor that the toe boards line up with and bolt into place. Mine really have no adjustment.

The pedals should be centered into the cutouts.

 

If they are not, I wonder why .... maybe they are replacements from a different truck?

Might be possible to oblong or slot the holes in the toe board so you can adjust them slightly side to side. I dunno, pictures would help.

 

 

[Mark G]

from what I can tell this was a cobbled together project that I inherited no telling what was done before I got it it came from Vermont some years ago I work on getting the pics together

[Los_Control]

Just thinking you can mix & match parts from different year trucks if they are the same.

 

On the later B series, 48-50 there is a difference where the gas pedal sits. 2 balls attached to the floor. Some trucks have them on the lower toe board .... some put them on the transmission cover. Also 1950 was first year of column shift so the toe board is different for floor linkage. That also changes the shape and size of the toe board & trans cover .... 

 

Your 1947, they made that cab style many years .... very possible you have a toe board from a different year and you may need to modify it to work for you.

[Young Ed]

As far as I know the pedals shouldn't rub left to right even if you mixed and matched. When I first built my 46 the clutch pedal rubbed. Little heat and bent it back in line. Not sure how it would have gotten bent but it was also an abandoned project so maybe something happened when it was laying around. The previous owners were going to 350swap it so I'm sure they weren't too careful with the stock bell housing. Now one other thing to point out- mid 46 there was a change to the brake pedal and if you don't have a matching set of pedal and pushrod your brakes will be screwed 

[Mark G]

how do I tell if brake pedal & pushrod are correct? VIN# do you know change point

[Los_Control]

Just a guess, I'm thinking if everything lines up ... master cylinder, push rod, pedal .... you are fine. All should be in a straight line.

 

You simply may have a mis matched toe board ...or not .... no pics yet ...  Possible you may have a Ferd toe board  

 

This all can be fixed with a grinder if your pedals function correctly.

[Young Ed]

2 hours ago, Mark G said:

how do I tell if brake pedal & pushrod are correct? VIN# do you know change point

If you have a matched set the pushrod will make good contact with the back of the MC. Mine was mismatched and way too short. If you had the opposite you probably wouldn't even be able to assemble the MC to the bellhousing.

[Mark G]

This is where the pedals hit the rear plywood plus they come back another two inches I know the clutch pedal has an adjustment on its shaft which could be the difference but what about the brake pedal does this truck have a “rearward” stop

[Jerry Roberts]

The backward movement of the pedals is stopped by the floorboards , the metal panel . That is how it was designed at the factory . There are draft seals that cushion the movement slightly . 

[Jerry Roberts]

On your brake pushrod you will need just a slight amount of free play before it contacts the master cylinder part . 

[Los_Control]

I can only laugh & suggest you enjoy the ride.

 

 

I actually have a metal replacement floor pan  ..... Sitting on top of the existing floor, it hits in the same place you show.

I figure I will need to cut it in more precisely & weld it in.

 

Hard to say whats going on if you have wood floors & hitting in the same place. .... Way out of my league.

 

Yeah if the floor is sitting too high, it will cause the pedals to hit in that location.

 

Look at your photo, if the floor was 1" lower.  The legs of the pedals would ride up & over the floor .... as is they hit the floor.

Edited February 8, 2023 by Los_Control

[Jerry Roberts]

The steel portion of his floor is in his photo , in the upper right , that is the portion that the pedal arms must hit .  There is another steel floor portion of the floor that goes between the wood and the one shown . 

[9 foot box]

    This is what Jerry R. is referring to.

[Veemoney]

Item 6 on the list pictured is the draft seal and part number that mounts on the pedal shaft in the engine compartment and will butt up against the firewall when the pedal is released.

 

 

 

[Young Ed]

Yup the pedals will just keep going until they hit something. When I have to remove the floor I strap the pedals forward. I would say don't mess with anything until the steel floor panels are installed. 

[Mark G]

thank you all for the insight you provided