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Posted

I suppose the safest way is to place your jack under the frame rail on one side and then raise the car to what you consider a safe distance(might have to do it in steps). Then place your Jack stand under  the rail in a solid place.  Go to the other side and do the same.  Be sure to block a back wheel and have it in gear with the parking brake set.  Alternatively you can place your jack under the front crossmember and raise both sides carefully as high as you need to and then place jack stands one on each side of the car in secure locations.

Posted

I suppose it depends on what sort of jack you have, I've a couple of 1800kg floor jacks but they never lifted high enough in one lift so I recently bought a 3000kg floor jack that lifts 500mm so I use it now......anyway I place the floor jack under the front crossmember and lift that after blocking the rear wheels, I place jackstands under the frame in line with or underneath the firewall body/chassis mount then lower the floor jack till the stands take the weight, I also leave the floorjack in place against the front crossmember as a bit of extra insurance, just a habit I've got into over the years.

.....If I need to lift the rear I use the nice new 3000kg floor jack under the diff center/axle housing , again after blocking the front wheels and after reaching the height needed I place jack stands under the chassis where the rear spring front bush meets the frame or that area....again I leave the floorjack in place locked against the rear axle housing..........dunno if this info helps........andyd  

Posted

Chock the rear wheels, even if your parking brake is good.  Use the center of the front cross member as a jacking point.  Assuming you have a strong enough jack, (the car is not that heavy), you can raise the entire front end from there without having to move the jack to place jack stands or ramps.  No science to it, but I don't like having the suspension hanging for too long, so I use ramps under the front tires if I'm working on the car for more than a day.  More secure as well.  You can put them down "backwards" for more maneuvering room from the side of the car, too.  Put the ramps under the tires, then lower the jack.  Pretty much the same drill when I use jack stands, I place them under the frame right about under the firewall, behind where the frame kicks up.  The car will rock forward a bit (leverage) when you lower it but it's nice and solid. 

Posted

After the car is up on the jack stands see if you can rock the car and make sure it is stable.  Do NOT and I again say Do Not work under the car with any type of music or radio playing. This will drownout if the car starts to move and squeek if it decide to not take firm on the jack stands.

 

Also might suggest that you have a second person working with you such as a spotter on the floor incse they need to pull you out from under the car. or get a pair of two way baby monitors so that you can call for help and make sure the other person can hear you on their end.

 

But basically it would be better off if the car was on a full  4 point hydraulic lift in a garage. No car is perfectly safe when raised up in the air.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

Posted

I have lifted  hundreds of older cars and truck at the center of the front crossmember.  My stands go as far forward as possible, near the front of the frame rails.  Two reasons for this are, I want the stands as far from my work area as possible and I never lift just the front.  Next I go to the back and lift under the differential case and place jack stands under the axle housing.

 

No danger of the car rolling that way and there is more room to maneuver with both ends raised. 

 

My friend and neighbor lost a 17 year old son in a high school shop class.  Front end raised.  Car in gear.  Accidentally touched the wrong wires with a wrench while removing the starter.  Car rolled off the jack stands.  So, I want all the wheels off the ground. 

 

And the ground cable off the battery, before I get under.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
18 hours ago, kencombs said:

I have lifted  hundreds of older cars and truck at the center of the front crossmember.  My stands go as far forward as possible, near the front of the frame rails.  Two reasons for this are, I want the stands as far from my work area as possible and I never lift just the front.  Next I go to the back and lift under the differential case and place jack stands under the axle housing.

 

No danger of the car rolling that way and there is more room to maneuver with both ends raised. 

 

My friend and neighbor lost a 17 year old son in a high school shop class.  Front end raised.  Car in gear.  Accidentally touched the wrong wires with a wrench while removing the starter.  Car rolled off the jack stands.  So, I want all the wheels off the ground. 

 

And the ground cable off the battery, before I get under.

Wow, never considered this. Gonna yank the battery cable from now on. 

Maybe I have an overactive imagination, but using ratchet release jack stands gives me the willies. I splurged on some pricey US made stands (can't remember the make, but if anyone's interested, I can go check) that have holes and at least 1.5" rod to hold them up. I'm determined to live long enough to be a burden to my children ?

Posted

I have never seen a ratchet stand fail with EXCEPTION to the fact that someone tried to release it when laden and sheared the roll pin that is the link lever to ratchet pawl.  Even so, once engaged ratchet to pawl, never an issue. 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

I have never seen a ratchet stand fail with EXCEPTION to the fact that someone tried to release it when laden and sheared the roll pin that is the link lever to ratchet pawl.  Even so, once engaged ratchet to pawl, never an issue. 

I know, I'm being ridiculous. I have no doubt that a ratchet stand has never, ever failed, but I can't keep from looking at them while I'm under the car and imagining my insides squeezed out like a tube of toothpaste. 

Posted

Oh and as an added.....by design this pin is supposed to fail should you try to release the jack when laden so not to end up with a catastrophe resulting in maiming or killing the person trying to override the limits/intent of the device for whatever his/her reasoning may be at the time.  

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

well, I often look at how the simplicity of the ratchet stand allows a quick and effective means to lift and lock the stand with minimum time of person/arm/hand in and about the suspended load....futzing with pinned stands require you in danger longer in my opinion...

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
  • Like 1

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