Sleepyaligator Posted May 29, 2022 Report Posted May 29, 2022 So far this is what I have. The nameplate is virtually unreadable. I am trying to identify the engine in order to identify the starter for replacement. FROM NAME PLATE The Yale & Towne Mfg Co Philadelphia Pennsylvania MODEL ?? -1OU ?? SERIAL 54 097 POWER IND-3?0-104 Pounds Center Height 4275 21 ? 4000 24 ? 3750 27 ? 3500 30 ? TWO STAMPS ON HEAD A 1 E5 50 <-- could be a date like 1.5.50 P 1405849-3 TWO STAMPS ON BLOCK T3Co 1I23I77 <-- 1I is really ?I T3C.1I23I77 or T334*II0C7* or T3C6*I23I77 543097 Engine may be a 218 Plymouth flathead 6 dated 1/5/1950 or 6 cylinder gas Continental engine model F226 seems likely Looking for some suggestions about how to track down a the right starter. Thanks! Quote
Sniper Posted May 29, 2022 Report Posted May 29, 2022 Ok the P on the head says Plymouth to me. It's an IND30 engine, 23.5" 230 flathead. Not a Continental. 1 Quote
Sleepyaligator Posted May 29, 2022 Author Report Posted May 29, 2022 37 minutes ago, Sniper said: Ok the P on the head says Plymouth to me. It's an IND30 engine, 23.5" 230 flathead. Not a Continental. Thanks Sniper! 1 Quote
Loren Posted May 29, 2022 Report Posted May 29, 2022 One key in the deciding if it is a Continental or a Chrysler is the location of the distributer. Chrysler on the side Continental on the top of the head. This way in one quick glance you can tell. 3 1 Quote
Sleepyaligator Posted May 29, 2022 Author Report Posted May 29, 2022 Thanks! Distributer on the side. Plymouth 230 seems likely Quote
Bryan Posted May 30, 2022 Report Posted May 30, 2022 T Flathead Six Engines (t137.com) Maybe someone popped another head on it. Quote
DJ194950 Posted May 30, 2022 Report Posted May 30, 2022 (edited) AS far as a new starter is concerned they pretty much impossible to find but it is not hard to get a rebuild on the one you have. Remove it and take or send to a electric motors (autos) repair shop. Most areas still have at least one. The motor also has a # stamped into it and at one time a factory label with model# and specs . If it is missing it will still most likely repairable. Also it is the best time to replace that leaking freeze plug located on the block behind the starter, the others when?? DJ Edited May 30, 2022 by DJ194950 Add freeze plug replace Quote
Sniper Posted May 30, 2022 Report Posted May 30, 2022 One new starter, 12v only not original appearing though https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=600 Quote
Merle Coggins Posted May 31, 2022 Report Posted May 31, 2022 Hard to tell in the picture, but it looks like it may be a T306 engine, which would make it a 218 from a '51 or '52 1/2 ton truck. But that starter motor didn't come from a truck. It's quite possible that the bell housing and starter are specific to Chrysler Industrial engines. Someone probably swapped the IND-30 engine with the truck engine at one point in time. Quote
JBNeal Posted June 1, 2022 Report Posted June 1, 2022 casting dates are relative to the distributor: vertically above is the head casting date; vertically below is the block casting date. T306 block stamp should have a casting date in '51-'53 per Eric Bannerman's research, but it is entirely possible the original head or block was replaced as heads and blocks were generally cast within days of each other during original engine manufacturing. The issue here might be that the head is an external bypass design, and the block is an internal bypass design. additional information - internal vs. external bypass water pump identification I notice that the dipstick is in the block, which tells me that oil pan is not a front sump pan but a rear or middle sump pan. Not really an issue, just an observation Quote
Sleepyaligator Posted June 13, 2022 Author Report Posted June 13, 2022 On 5/30/2022 at 1:16 PM, DJ194950 said: AS far as a new starter is concerned they pretty much impossible to find but it is not hard to get a rebuild on the one you have. Remove it and take or send to a electric motors (autos) repair shop. Most areas still have at least one. The motor also has a # stamped into it and at one time a factory label with model# and specs . If it is missing it will still most likely repairable. Also it is the best time to replace that leaking freeze plug located on the block behind the starter, the others when?? DJ Thanks DJ. Getting the starter rebuilt seems like a good option. Definitely will change the freeze plugs too! Quote
Solution Sleepyaligator Posted June 5, 2023 Author Solution Report Posted June 5, 2023 Well Happy Day! New fuel pump. carb, starter, plugs, wires, coil, and condenser. Engine would not start, absolutely nothing, not even a single "putt". Firing order 153624. We looked at the distributor to make sure it was spinning counterclockwise like all the diagrams. Of course it was. My brain could not accept the fact of what it was seeing. Put the cap and wires back together for counterclockwise firing order. Nothing. And finally, reality sank it. The distributor is spinning CLOCKWISE! Quick re-ordering of the wires and the engine started right up. No misses, or noises, just PURRS! 2 2 Quote
RobertKB Posted June 5, 2023 Report Posted June 5, 2023 Congratulations! As they say…..fuel, spark, correct timing makes any engine run. ? Oil and coolant necessary if you want it to keep running. ? Quote
Sleepyaligator Posted August 28, 2023 Author Report Posted August 28, 2023 My next problem is the transmission wont go into forward gears. There seem to be two reverse gears. Is that possible? Took the 4 bolt tower off and the left shaft moves freely but the right shaft is frozen. I saw the two springs that apparently hold steel balls into shifting detents. Could this be where the mechanism if locked up? Any references to to fixing these things? Quote
FarmerJon Posted August 30, 2023 Report Posted August 30, 2023 On 6/5/2023 at 3:00 PM, Sleepyaligator said: Well Happy Day! New fuel pump. carb, starter, plugs, wires, coil, and condenser. Engine would not start, absolutely nothing, not even a single "putt". Firing order 153624. We looked at the distributor to make sure it was spinning counterclockwise like all the diagrams. Of course it was. My brain could not accept the fact of what it was seeing. Put the cap and wires back together for counterclockwise firing order. Nothing. And finally, reality sank it. The distributor is spinning CLOCKWISE! Quick re-ordering of the wires and the engine started right up. No misses, or noises, just PURRS! I must have looked at the same diagrams when I did my first tune up. Quote
Sleepyaligator Posted January 18 Author Report Posted January 18 Nothing happens very fast in my world. The forward gears shifter rod was frozen, but WD-40 and a lot of wiggling freed it up! With a rope for a throttle, no brakes, and no experience driving forklifts I crashed into everything in my friend's "junk" yard but made it up to where I could load her on a trailer and bring it home! 4 Quote
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