Pricer Posted April 24, 2022 Report Posted April 24, 2022 This car sat for many years and am trying to bring back to life. I have the carb apart and have sonic cleaned etc. There are three brass screws at the bottom of the I am thinking will break if I need it enough pressure on them. Have tried soaking with penetrating fluid however wondering if they are really necessary to remove to clean 100%? Advice much appreciated. Quote
Sniper Posted April 25, 2022 Report Posted April 25, 2022 I would put the carb in a bucket of hot water and see it those screws will come out. Holes expand when the material they are in heats up. If they won;t then just hose them out with carb cleaner and make sure the passageways are clear. Quote
soth122003 Posted April 25, 2022 Report Posted April 25, 2022 You can also try stabilizing the carb base and use a screwdriver and a small plastic hammer keeping pressure on the screw to loosen and tapping the end of the screwdriver with the hammer. The vibrations of the strike may loosen the screw for removal. Joe Lee Quote
Tom Skinner Posted April 25, 2022 Report Posted April 25, 2022 Pricer, If that is a Carter Carb the Lower Left (Hole) in your picture is your Accelerator Piston Hole. In it at the bottom is a Clip that holds a Metal Ball, that should probably be replaced.The other two should come loose using the advice above. Tom Quote
Pricer Posted April 25, 2022 Author Report Posted April 25, 2022 Thanks to all. Will try as recommended. Quote
DJ194950 Posted April 25, 2022 Report Posted April 25, 2022 Or look at special tools for sale just for jet/carb plugs etc. on Amazon and other others-local part stores? https://www.amazon.com/carb-jet-tool/s?k=carb+jet+tool DJ Quote
harmony Posted April 28, 2022 Report Posted April 28, 2022 Do you have any other pictures of the complete carb? Was the car running before with this carb on it? What make and model is the carb? It's just that I don't see any provisions for the antistall circuit or a dashpot. I can't really see clearly from the photo, but it doesn't look like it has a kickdown circuit either. Quote
Pricer Posted April 29, 2022 Author Report Posted April 29, 2022 The carb is apart. I managed to get two more brass screws out with some of the tips posted. Car had sat for many years. Was not running when I got it. Fuel tank was rusted out and lines were really bad shape. Here are some pics on the bench. Quote
Bryan Posted April 29, 2022 Report Posted April 29, 2022 (edited) 7 hours ago, Pricer said: The carb is apart. I managed to get two more brass screws out with some of the tips posted. Car had sat for many years. Was not running when I got it. Fuel tank was rusted out and lines were really bad shape. Here are some pics on the bench. BXVD-3 is the same number on my base. Mine's a Stromberg.. Have not took it apart yet but have a kit. My father had changed it to a manual choke. The throttle plate shaft seems to have very little play. There are carb brush kits to clean with. Also my brother buys finer steel guitar strings to clean small holes with. My gas tank is rusted out too. Changing everything. Edited April 29, 2022 by Bryan Add gas tank.. Quote
harmony Posted April 29, 2022 Report Posted April 29, 2022 Here is a thread from 2016 that indicates that your carb is correct for your car. From that thread, it appears that the Stromberg BXVD-3 was used on the Dodges with Fluid Drive. There are a few pictures of the BXVD-3 carb on that thread posted by _shel_ny towards the end of the thread, with one pictures showing an illustrated breakdown of all the parts, but it beats me as to how it is wired into the transmission relay, solenoid & governor. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted April 29, 2022 Report Posted April 29, 2022 Non of the 1946-48 Dodge cars had wiring to the factory BXVD-3 Stromberg carburetor. These cars were only a 3 speed transmission with the Fluid Drive coupling using a adjustable screw type anti-stall dash pot on the top of the Stromberg carb. Starting in 1949 Dodge offered the new M-6 transmission in the new upper line model Coronet cars. This transmission did use electrical controls and wiring for shifting and required the new Stromberg BXVES-3 carb having an electrical kick down switch and a round anti-stall solenoid mounted on the side of the carburetor. Quote
harmony Posted April 29, 2022 Report Posted April 29, 2022 20 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said: Non of the 1946-48 Dodge cars had wiring to the factory BXVD-3 Stromberg carburetor. These cars were only a 3 speed transmission with the Fluid Drive coupling using a adjustable screw type anti-stall dash pot on the top of the Stromberg carb. Starting in 1949 Dodge offered the new M-6 transmission in the new upper line model Coronet cars. This transmission did use electrical controls and wiring for shifting and required the new Stromberg BXVES-3 carb having an electrical kick down switch and a round anti-stall solenoid mounted on the side of the carburetor. Thanks, good to know. So how did the shifting procedure compare to the 4 speed ( hi-low) hydraulic transmissions? Also does that mean they didn't have the trans relay either? Quote
Doug&Deb Posted April 29, 2022 Report Posted April 29, 2022 46-48 Dodge shifted like a conventional 3-speed or you could use 3rd gear only. You could stop without disengaging the clutch. I drove mine like a conventional stick shift. Quote
harmony Posted April 29, 2022 Report Posted April 29, 2022 3 hours ago, Doug&Deb said: 46-48 Dodge shifted like a conventional 3-speed or you could use 3rd gear only. You could stop without disengaging the clutch. I drove mine like a conventional stick shift. Perhaps you could clarify that a little bit please, to ease my curiosity. So I'm assuming reverse was towards you and up. So was first towards you and down? ( there is nothing there on my Windsor hydraulic trans with fluid drive) Second away from you and up? Third away from you and down? Meaning perhaps you wouldn't have a high and low range? That being by taking your foot off the gas it would up or down shift, as in my car. So you'd select whatever gear, depressing the clutch. Stopping wouldn't require the clutch to be disengaged. But to change gears, as your driving along, you'd have to depress the clutch. Does my guess work of it sound right? Quote
Doug&Deb Posted April 29, 2022 Report Posted April 29, 2022 Dodge had a 3-speed like Plymouth but with the fluid coupling so you are correct about the gear positions. If you drive it like Dodge intended acceleration is painfully slow kind of like a Buick with Dynaflow. Chrysler used the same setup in 39-40 before the Vacamatic was introduced. 1 Quote
Pricer Posted April 30, 2022 Author Report Posted April 30, 2022 13 hours ago, Bryan said: BXVD-3 is the same number on my base. Mine's a Stromberg.. Have not took it apart yet but have a kit. My father had changed it to a manual choke. The throttle plate shaft seems to have very little play. There are carb brush kits to clean with. Also my brother buys finer steel guitar strings to clean small holes with. My gas tank is rusted out too. Changing everything. What carb kit do you have? I purchased the Hygrade 101A and the gaskets are not matching between the base and second level. Quote
Bryan Posted April 30, 2022 Report Posted April 30, 2022 40 minutes ago, Pricer said: What carb kit do you have? I purchased the Hygrade 101A and the gaskets are not matching between the base and second level. This one. 1939-54 CHRYSLER CARB KIT-STROMBERG BXES, BXD, BXV, BXVES & BXVD MODELS 1BARRELS | eBay Quote
Pricer Posted April 30, 2022 Author Report Posted April 30, 2022 38 minutes ago, Bryan said: This one. 1939-54 CHRYSLER CARB KIT-STROMBERG BXES, BXD, BXV, BXVES & BXVD MODELS 1BARRELS | eBay Thank you. Quote
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