Hanging them off the engine stand with bell housing on?

[keithb7]

I’m at the point tomorrow where I’ll install the flywheel and clutch. I had to take my engine off its stand to install the bell housing. Engine is currently hanging from my hoist. 

 

I think I’ve seen pics of engines mounted to the stand only by the bell housing.  That seems a little sketchy to me. The engine continues to gain lots of weight with each piece I install. 
 

Yet working on installing the flywheel while it’s hanging from the hoist seems sketchy as well. I’d have to get partially under there to install and torque flywheel hardware.  
 

It seems safer to mount the engine back on the stand with the bell housing on. Then roll it upside down and install the flywheel. Yet, as mentioned, also seems sketchy.  Lesser of two evils maybe?
 

How are you folks doing this step? I thought about mounting the engine in the car. Then installing the flywheel. Yet its pretty awkward by yourself down there. Trying to hold up a 70 lb flywheel off your chest and get fasteners threaded. 
 

Tips appreciated. Thx. 
 

 

[Bryan]

Not that far yet but I would disconnect that rear oil line and tape it off at the engine before doing much else. Looks easy to hit.

[maok]

I had the same situation when I was working on my '28 engine building. Lower the engine to  a couple large timber long blocks on the floor resting along  the sump bolts, still keeping the hoist attached to keep the engine falling sideways. 

[Sniper]

I have a lifting eye that screws in place of the center head bolt, actually I have 4 of them thinking one for each corner but not needed.  My gantry crane picks it up nice and level with that lifting eye.  What I plan to do is assemble the entire engine, sans head, with the flywheel, bell housing, etc on the engine then put the engine in the car and put the head on when the engine is in the car.  But, and this is key, I have an aluminum head.  If I were going to run the cast iron one I would rethink this.

 

Maok's idea is probably the best option, I still have the shipping cradle my spare 230 showed up on and it would work for this.  It is basically a small pallet with some added two by's to set the pan rails on.

[keithb7]

Thanks guys. I agree on the timbers. I don’t think I have enough. I’ll see what I can round up. 
 

I had a thought at 3 am. Engine is hanging on a leveller. Not seen in the pic. I could tilt it so the water pump end is down. Might allow me to attach at least a couple flywheel bolts. Then I can attach the rest and torque them all after my engine is bolted to the frame. 
 

A local Mopar guy gave me a wood cradle he made. I tried to use it. It turns out it was b built for a 23” engine. Wouldn’t work. He had cut out wood end pieces to wrap around the front & rear radius of the oil pan. 

[Dan Hiebert]

You've got that handy-dandy new welder.  Build yourself a metal cradle/stand with caster wheels.  Relatively straight forward project that won't take too long (unless you overthink it...like I would).  May still be a bit tricky to get the flywheel on, (as in - awkward), but the engine would be well supported, easily accessible, and mobile until time to stab it in.  Otherwise, leaving it hanging on the hoist would not be an issue in my book, especially following Moak's advise with the timbers, don't need many/much, just enough so the oil pan clears the floor.  Temporarily draw the boom down into a higher weight section. 

[keithb7]

I like the metal cradle idea. But I'll use it once probably. For 20 mins.  Limited floor space so I won't store it. Mind you its certainly not like storing a @Snipergantry. ? As much as I loved building this engine I can't see myself spending $4K to build another one for kicks. I am pretty sure if I rebuilt another old Mopar engine for love of the hobby, when done if trying to sell it, a guy would probably be lucky to pull in 30% of just actual parts costs. My '38 Chrysler engine is a low mile rebuild already. Anyone within 500 miles want their engine rebuilt? Lol. I'll consider it.

 

I have a spare 25" 218 here. 2 1/8" stroke. 3 3/8" bore. Could easily turn it into a 234 cc-ish...Well sorta easily. Actually. I'm expensive and slow. Took about a year with this one. ?

Edited December 24, 2021 by keithb7

[Sniper]

You know, if you built that metal cradle mentioned you could store you spare 218 on it and with the casters it would be easy to move around if need be.

[keithb7]

Here’s the 23” cradle a local guy gave me. Not convinced it would hold up a fully dressed engine anyway. Looks dicey to me. 
 

 

[JBNeal]

additional information - 2 x 4 engine stand

[keithb7]

Got it on. Took safety measures. 8 fasteners in place. Lightly torqued for now. Will really torque them down when the engine is bolted down. 
 

 

[kencombs]

Now I see this after you’re done!

 

it’s amazing how easy it is to put the flywheel on when the engine is near vertical, back end up.   Did mine hanging from the lift attached to the two rear head bolts.  Front touching a chunk of plywood on the floor.  Sit on my milk crate and lay it In Place.  Had to sit on the floor to see the nuts though.  
 

first time for that.   I usually just use to supports.  Little electric hoist from the framing AND the engine hoist.   That way I feel safe raising it up and working under it