OUTFXD Posted December 12, 2021 Report Share Posted December 12, 2021 (edited) Been fighting a dragging starter since I got the car. I have replaced all the battery cables. Had the battery tested by the local parts hause. Started using a battery tender. Added Ground straps from the starter to the block. and had the starter professionally rebuilt. My car is currently blocking my friends trailer and he asked me to move the car so he could get to his trailer. Car didnt want to start. It didnt even want to turn over. in an exercise in escalation I eventually ended up turning off all the electrics in the car and jump starting from my (Engine off) Subaru. Still nothing. With the cars hooked together I tries to start the Subaru and IT had a hard time turning over. I disconnected the cars and the Subaru Fired right off. What in the world would cause that kind of Voltage draw? Edited December 12, 2021 by OUTFXD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted December 12, 2021 Report Share Posted December 12, 2021 Either a seriously depleted battery in your car or a serious electrical short. You mention having the battery tested, but no time frame was given. Time to put a meter on thing and see what is going on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OUTFXD Posted December 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2021 Erm... I think i had the battery tested about a month ago. The battery is about a year old. I have been suspicious of the battery since getting the car. also it IS 47 degrees here so i am sure that has SOME impact on the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maok Posted December 12, 2021 Report Share Posted December 12, 2021 Try pulling the spark plugs out to minimize the load on the starter and see how it turns over. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 12, 2021 Report Share Posted December 12, 2021 What gauge battery cables did you use to replace the old? 6V or 12V system? Did you add the ground straps and have the starter rebuilt at the same time? Did it work properly or drag after the new cables? After the starter rebuild - was the same or did it help? I've had to jump off my step-mother's car sitting unused with a very dead battery in it..I had to rev the engine up in my truck and let it charge for a while before her car would even try to start. If the battery is dead, and you had your Subaru connected, it might not start. Had it happen before. I your battery is over 5 years old I would replace it. I've also had my 2015 Corolla just without warning not start due to a dead battery..one day good, next day bad. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OUTFXD Posted December 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2021 (edited) ok.... so... I had a battery master disconnect switch. I took everything apart, Cleaned the connections, Put it all back together and nothing. Grasping at straws I pulled the disconnect switch thinking I might get a more solid connection and now the starter spins freely. Didnt start but its 47 degrees out and raining so decided to wait till morning. So apparently the battery disconnect switch was causing the issue. Curious at what point I fixed the starting issue but the disconnect switch became the issue... Edited December 12, 2021 by OUTFXD I cant spell 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OUTFXD Posted December 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2021 55 minutes ago, Bryan said: What gauge battery cables did you use to replace the old? 6V or 12V system? Did you add the ground straps and have the starter rebuilt at the same time? Did it work properly or drag after the new cables? After the starter rebuild - was the same or did it help? I've had to jump off my step-mother's car sitting unused with a very dead battery in it..I had to rev the engine up in my truck and let it charge for a while before her car would even try to start. If the battery is dead, and you had your Subaru connected, it might not start. Had it happen before. I your battery is over 5 years old I would replace it. I've also had my 2015 Corolla just without warning not start due to a dead battery..one day good, next day bad. bit of a moot point at this stage but you asked so I will answer. 6v Positive ground. Battery cables where replaced with whatever universal cable the parts shop had on the shelf (they will be replaced with 0 or 1 gauge cables when I can). Rebuild first, Ground cables after. Neither helped it turn over. of course I had the battery disconnect in by then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 12, 2021 Report Share Posted December 12, 2021 Glad you got it fixed. The reason I was asking so much was to try and isolate the problem. But again, glad you found it. Now help me with my stuck valve ?. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted December 12, 2021 Report Share Posted December 12, 2021 Cut a piece of leather from a shoe, leash, old harness etc. Cut a strip 3 /4 wide. Use it to shield the valve edge, clamp on a vise grip and see if you can twist them around. Got to tractor supply or similar, see if they have the syringes vets use to put meds into animals mouths. Use one and piece of tubing to get your choice of penetrant on the valve stem so it can get into the guide. Assure the valve lobe under the stuck ones are down. And Use a rubber ot plastic mallet and a piece of wood to see if you can tap them down. If you get them down, crank the engine over to raise them up and repeat as necessary. A bit of heat from a torch can be helpful too. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OUTFXD Posted December 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2021 As my father would say. It it wont move, Force it. If you cant Force it, Get a bigger hammer. If it breaks, *shrug* it needed replacing anyways. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maok Posted December 12, 2021 Report Share Posted December 12, 2021 5 hours ago, OUTFXD said: ok.... so... I had a battery master disconnect switch. I took everything apart, Cleaned the connections, Put it all back together and nothing. Grasping at straws I pulled the disconnect switch thinking I might get a more solid connection and now the starter spins freely. Didnt start but its 47 degrees out and raining so decided to wait till morning. So apparently the battery disconnect switch was causing the issue. Curious at what point I fixed the starting issue but the disconnect switch became the issue... Those cheapie cut off switches with removable keys have a 12 month life, I replace mine on a regular basis when the starter starts struggling. They're only $10-$15 bucks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OUTFXD Posted December 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2021 Still having issues. The battery goes dead FAST. Ran to the local village and got one of them new fangled Multipull-digit readers. Checked amps between the + battery terminal and the + battery cable (disconnected). Got 3.6 amp draw with everything off. Turned on the Ignition and that dropped to 0.0. Checked the battery leads, 1.8 ohms from +Battery terminal to engine block. 1.8 ohms from - battery terminal to Voltage regulator, 1.8 ohms from Voltage regulator to Starter. Decided to check the Voltage regulator connections and they where seized tight. I was beginning to worry about snapping the head off one when it gave about 1/2 turn and seized again. I turned it back in and soaked all the connectors (And threads) in penetrating oil. Thats where I sit. decided to write this while I waited for the penetrating oil to.... penetrate. Ideas? Suggestions? Am I headed in the right direction or have I completely lost the plot? I dont do well with Electrics. It has spent most of my life finding new and interesting ways to shorten my life span so any and all advice is welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted December 22, 2021 Report Share Posted December 22, 2021 4 hours ago, OUTFXD said: Still having issues. The battery goes dead FAST. Ran to the local village and got one of them new fangled Multipull-digit readers. Checked amps between the + battery terminal and the + battery cable (disconnected). Got 3.6 amp draw with everything off. Turned on the Ignition and that dropped to 0.0. My interpretation is that you have a 3.6 amp through the switch when OFF. that disappears when the switch is ON. A little more info on the switch may help. How many terminals and connected wires? In any case, I'd start by disconnected every wire from the switch and measuring continuity from the BAT terminal to all others when off. If has any, replace it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OUTFXD Posted December 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2021 1 hour ago, kencombs said: My interpretation is that you have a 3.6 amp through the switch when OFF. that disappears when the switch is ON. A little more info on the switch may help. How many terminals and connected wires? In any case, I'd start by disconnected every wire from the switch and measuring continuity from the BAT terminal to all others when off. If has any, replace it. Your interpretation is correct. I will have to get back to you on the specifics of the switch. I know it is not a stock unit, thats about it. I like your suggestion and will check it out on the marrow when the temperature rises above 40. Thank you for the suggestion, it gives me someplace to look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted December 22, 2021 Report Share Posted December 22, 2021 I believe you’re on the right track. You have identified a power draw when there shouldn’t be one. Now you just need to systematically disconnect different circuits until the power draw disappears. Once you identify which circuit is causing the problem you can then troubleshoot that circuit and fix the problem. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48 New Yorker Posted January 5, 2022 Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 One other thing to consider, after you've done your "starting upgrades" and you can get it going reliability, is to replace your battery cutoff switch IF it is a "green knob" or blade type. I recently installed the blade type and found it severely restricted the amps to the starter. You may ask, "But many people swear by these"....which is true......the difference?.....many are on 12v systems that don't generate the amps a 6 volt does, therefore there's not much amperage loss. IMO, the proper battery shut off switch is a Cole Hersee 2484 A Master Disconnect Switch 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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