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Posted

Quick question.  My rear window weather strip leaks like a sieve. I have a new seal,  at the same time I ordered some weather strip adhesive.

 

Watched a video that said the adhesive is not need.

 

So,  yes or no, should I use adhesive?

 

Thank in advance!

Posted

only thing I used is soapy water the rubber is designed to be the seal and a good gasket won't leak.

 

Wait, are you talking about the window across the back or a rear side window?

Posted

The window across the back of the car,  I made the mistake of listening to the sights "Frequently bought together" suggestion

Posted

Hi OUTFXD, yesterday I removed a rear window from an original 47 coupe to salvage the glass from an auto wreckers.  Severe winter weather in northern Alberta, hot summer sunshine and really warm temperatures over the many years (20+) the car has sat derelict in salvage really impaired the gasket. There were obvious signs of cracking around the outside of the gasket and no sign of any sort of sealant anywhere around the opening. There was still no signs of water damage inside the window frame of the car so like Sniper my best guess is gasket.  Dave

  • Like 2
Posted

Changed my rear window gasket few years ago. Used a little weather sealer where rubber meets each other.  After a few months rubber seamed to shrink about 1/16 “ so I put sealer. No leaks.

Posted (edited)

I had put new front glass 20 yrs ago, just the new  rubber gaskets without additional sealant.

2 yrs later I had to take them out and found the window frame wet all over the gasket´s seat.

Luckily, no rust yet thanks to the intact varnish.

The car hadn´t got any rain in these 2 Years but had been washed 1 time.

I don´t trust the rubber´s waterproof sealing abilities since then.

Greetings from Düsseldorf!

Go

Edited by Go Fleiter
  • Like 1
Posted

My understanding regarding the original weatherstripping/front rear window rubber gaskets is that they should have some sort of non hardening sealer squirted between the outer edge of the gasket and the window opening edge  but in no way should it be an adhesive like what late model cars use to hold the windscreens in as part of the cars structure..............the original body opening stampings were not that accurate and a small amount of sealant or what I know as windscreen "mastick" should be used........when I had the front screens replaced on my 40 Dodge about 6-7 yrs ago I had a discussion with the glass guy who didn't want to put any sealant in......in the end I just said o/k and did it myself later when i got home........no leaks yet.........I'd put something in if it was me............andyd

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Posted

Better watch the factory service film on sealing against water leaks.

Mr Tech says.....

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Posted

I think I need to set up my projector and record player and watch some "Mr Tech") films...?

20211031_195021.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

I love your excellent MoPar still life!  Makes me wish I didn't sell my gold Master Tech standing on a piston some thirty years ago.  I also have many of the MoPar film strips and kits, plus a Dukane projector to show them.  Although the phonograph on the projector needs some work, so I play the records on my Califone school phonograph with 4 speeds.  Even though the records are 33 1/3, they should be played with a 78 stylus that the Califone has if you flip it over.  I have one or two Mr. Tech kits that include a small envelope of steel needles to play the records.  

Posted

That film was for the 52/53 models but I still think the earlier cars should have some sort of non hardening sealant squirted between the rubber & body edge, if not also into the channel where the glass fits.........andyd 

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Posted

Andy I agree with you.

The films are good but not always 100% on problem solving some issues.

They have taught me a lot.

I have most all of the early service and sales films and have watched nearly all of them.

Used to show them every month at the Chrysler club meetings in the 70's.

Boy those were the days!

  • Like 1
Posted

Best practice at the time.  But there have been advances in material available.  I'm sure all of you have encountered rust under the rubber seals, especially on windshields.  While installing the seal dry won't necessarily allow water to enter the vehicle, enough can be trapped between the outer seal and the metal to cause rust over time.  That is where the sealant is helpful.  That is why almost all glass shops use it now, at least in my area.

 

Also no mentioned in the strip, is the need to patch paint any exposed metal while the rubber is out.   Wrecks, age, or tools used to remove it can expose some bare metal.  I use epoxy primer, mixed in a paper cup and a small brush to seal those up.  It can delay reinstallation as it cures slowly but it works.

  • Like 2
Posted

The local place I went to uses an adhesive and/or silicon crap for the late model cars and had no idea what I meant when I asked for a non hardening "mastick" or sealant ....BUT in no way would I ever use the silicon "windscreen sealer" crap..........my oz 2 cents worth........1.5 US cents....at the current exchange rate................lol............andyd  

  • Like 1
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