Chassis saver paint to glossy

[Mertz]

I’ve spent a lot of time getting my frame ready to paint. Saturday and Sunday I did the final prep work sanding and wiping down with a naphta/xylene mix. Monday I applied a coat of Chassis Saver.  It went on pretty thick. I did not use a reducer. I brushed it on and it took about half a quart. I only did the rear half of the frame.  Reading the tech data I probably should have gotten the antique satin which does not fad while the gloss eventually turns grey. I now want to top coat it with a satin black. I’ve seen acrylic enamel recommended and a suggested drying time of 6 to 8 hours to top coat. By the time the temps get warm enough it will be almost 24 hours. 

 

Should I put on a light reduced coat over the heavy coat then spray with rustoleum acrylic enamel spray within the 6 hours or can I put it on after the 24 hours. I also have a can of ACE ruststop enamel but I haven’t heard much good said about it. 

[Los_Control]

Not sure if I have anything good to say about Ace paint, I do not have anything bad to say about it either.

I used it on 1/2 my frame, front axle etc... I wire brushed all the loose surface rust off, coated everything with ospho then brushed on the Ace paint couple coats heavy.

Obvious I am not a professional paint & body guy.

 

I am ok so far with the results, no idea how long it will last but sitting in the driveway it has lasted 1 year.

I was kinda turned off with it when I read the directions and it said it is not DTM  (direct to metal) it wants primer first ... I put it DTM anyways.

I was not happy with the packaging ... the lid on the can. I would open it and pour some in a bucket for my paint brush, the lid would never seal tight again.

After working out of the gallon can for a few months ended up throwing 1/2 the can away.

But what I applied is holding up just fine. Photos from A year ago I brushed the frame then I did spray some, I'm ok with it. A photo from yesterday.

 

 

 

[Mertz]

I just finished putting on another coat and it took less paint and I reduced it to much thinner consistently. I know I probably missed some places on the second coat. It doesn’t look as bad as yesterday but still the gloss shows up all the imperfections. The tech data says the chassis saver holds up very well against all the corrosive liquids (10 out of 10) so I don’t want to paint something less resistive over it. However if the top coat peels off I still have the good paint underneath. 

[Tooljunkie]

I used Krylon. Cheap, covers well and tough. Also its cheap. 
spilled brake fluid on it and didnt lift. Paint was applied for a year,and i washed the brake fluid off right away. 

[Los_Control]

I probably not the right one to reply for your questions ...

1, I live in West Texas and no liquid ice removers on the road to worry about.

2, I also thought it was too shiny after it was first applied. Thinking this is why GOD created mud puddles.

3, I am just not particular about things that in my mind not worth worrying about.

 

When you put the bed, fenders, tires on ... you will only see parts of the frame ... the sun will not reach it and turn it gray. It will be protected.

Drive it some and the gloss will disappear. Personally I am fine with the gloss black frame & undercarriage.

 

Although I am concerned about gloss paint for exterior ... not the look I want. I will add that I am using the reducer from Tractor supply, a universal hardener from Napa, And considering a additive Napa sells to take the gloss out of the paint. Thanks to @Plymouthy Adamsfor the tips.

You would be better to talk to your local Napa dealer that provides custom paints ... You can add or remove gloss from the paint and they sell the products to do this.

 

 

[Dave72dt]

If you want the imperfections out, let it cure out, then start blocking it.  The Chassissaver will act as a filler for the low spots, pits and then recoat.  Your tech sheet for the Chassissaver probably has directions for topcoating after it's cured.  It's probably going to need to be scuffed at a minimum for a topcoating of any kind at this point in time

[Mertz]

The satin would hide some of the imperfections. I don’t want to over restore the truck. I am smoothing out all the small parts just because I can. I did most of the parts this winter before I could do any painting. You are correct when you say most of it will be covered not seen and not exposed to UV. I think I’ll let it age over the winter and see how it looks in the spring. I do have to get more paint for the front. If I don’t like the finish in the spring I will use the satin on the front and recoat the back. It would have been smoother if I could spray it. 

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

Rustoleum is some trick paint to use. Don’t know if that can be applied to a new/soft coat without wrinkling. I have made that mistake in the past and have since steered away if it is something important. Always seemed to work on projects that I never gave much thought towards. I know it is hard to use with primer, and recoats need to be made in a short window.  

[Mertz]

Chassis Saver suggests topcoat within 6 to 8 hours or wait till cured and scuff sand before the top coat. I was hoping not to scuff sand and apply within the time frame when the CS was still tacky.  I have had wrinkles when not waiting long enough for an additional coat and don’t want that on the big frame section which would require a lot of work to correct in some hard spots to sand. 

[ggdad1951]

As stated above, much of the frame will never see direct "hard" sunlight/UV.  But the front bumper horns will for sure.....

[lostviking]

I haven't painted any of my frame. The previous owner may have, I don't know for sure. There were some mildly surface rusted area's. I applied a product called CoroSeal, which is a rust converter. The places I used it will never rust again. It turns violet at first, but then becomes a dark black color. 

 

Pretty sloppy job, but I put some on a rusty bellhousing.

Edited October 21, 2021 by lostviking
added picture

[Mertz]

I completely cleaned my bell housing and painted with grey appliance epoxy. It fills in some off the roughness of the casting. First a light coat, then a medium coat followed by a pretty heavy coat. You can really see it smooth out when applying the last coat. 

Edited October 21, 2021 by Mertz