Steering Link Ball Joint Problem!!!

[CO54]

I posted this in my build page, but decided to open a new topic to see about getting as much input as possible. Yesterday, I decided to degrease and clean up some parts for the frame.  Hit a SNAG after cleaning up the steering linkage that comes off the pitman arm of gear box to left drag link. After cleaning, I started moving ball joints around to verify smooth operation before new grease.  The ball joint with nut on it, was locked up and only has limited movement. The other side will move freely without the center mounting point moving at all. The side with nut is locked up with minimum movement from side to side, and the center shaft will spin freely regardless of location.  My question, is there a service that can be done to salvage?  PLEASE HELP!!!!!! I know this part is made of unobtanium! I did remove the zerk fitting and soak in carb cleaner for about 10 hours, still no change in amount of movement.  Even after the black nasty old grease slime came running out from zerk hole. 

[Young Ed]

What are you using to move them? A good tight joint should be very hard to move. From your description I'm wondering if the tight one is good and the other side worn

[CO54]

The side with full 360 movement takes a good bit of pressure to move by hand when mounted in the vice.  The side that's locked up, feels like a mechanical failure inside, it won't move more than 60 degrees on one side only, can't get to center. Don't want to force it, but feels like a broken spring or something else is going on inside. Can't see inside the zerk fitting hole for anything, but a small flat head will go all the way to other side of the casted part.  It appears that there is a cap on the "flat" side that could be removed for servicing. Just weary of removing it, and never getting that back on correctly. 

[JBNeal]

Removing that cap could be problematic as it needs a tight fit to stay put during operation.  That ball joint could possibly be locked up with rust...soaking in Marvel Mystery Oil for a week might yield some positive results.  If there is still grease in there, an O-A torch could be used to liquefy the grease to drain out of the zerk port by applying the tip of the flame to the casting from that port to just opposite that port, at a rate of 5 seconds round trip.

[CO54]

Don't have an O-A torch, but I'll give the MAP gas bottle a shot tonight after work.  Will also be grabbing some ATF or MM Oil to soak in after some heat.  

[Jeff Balazs]

Have you tried contacting Rare Parts? Not sure they have your truck covered but I do know they make new drag links etc for the Pilothouse trucks.

Jeff

[CO54]

1 hour ago, Jeff Balazs said:

Have you tried contacting Rare Parts? Not sure they have your truck covered but I do know they make new drag links etc for the Pilothouse trucks.

Jeff

Do you have a contact or website?  I looked through the Vendor Listing Post and couldn't find it in there. 

[billrigsby]

16 minutes ago, CO54 said:

Do you have a contact or website?  I looked through the Vendor Listing Post and couldn't find it in there. 

 

Rare Parts

[CO54]

5 minutes ago, billrigsby said:

 

Rare Parts

Thanks.

Located replacement if needed. 

25655 - DRAG LINK (rareparts.com)

 

[Jeff Balazs]

There Ya go. If these joints don't operate smoothly you are not going to enjoy driving your truck.

Jeff

[kencombs]

One could use a piece of DOM tubing of the correct OD and wall thickness to tap for the threads on a pair of tie rod (or other type rod end) and bend using a press.   You would likely have close to the purchase price of a new one invested though and short lengths of specific DOM tube may be hard to find.

But, the result would provide you with a replacement that could be maintained with locally available replacement ends.

[CO54]

22 minutes ago, kencombs said:

One could use a piece of DOM tubing of the correct OD and wall thickness to tap for the threads on a pair of tie rod (or other type rod end) and bend using a press.   You would likely have close to the purchase price of a new one invested though and short lengths of specific DOM tube may be hard to find.

But, the result would provide you with a replacement that could be maintained with locally available replacement ends.

That is a good solution, and the serviceability option down the road isn't a bad point either.  Thanks. 

[Jeff Balazs]

Fwiw I can't see any sense in trying to fabricate this item. This is not an item that requires too much maintenance. If it is greased at regular intervals a new one should outlast several owners. The original on my 52 still works fine. 30,000 miles since I have had it and all it ever needs is a shot of grease once in a while.

Jeff

[wallytoo]

i'm with jeff on this.  no need to make one if there is one available at a reasonable price.  it will outlast the next few owners.

[CO54]

Replacement ordered. Haven't had chance to play with torch yet. Things went sideways with kids and first week of school. Gotta love having one in HS, and one in MS......  Wouldn't change it though. 

[CO54]

Got the torch out and played, actually happy I made a mess today. Old one still won't budge past the points shown before. After replacement arrives, I'll look into the service options for original part removed. Replacement will be here next week.  Just trying to stay ahead of the list. Tomorrow and Sunday will consist of hard line from MC to flex lines. The rear calipers, flex lines, rotors, pads etc, all arrived today.  More pics to follow.  Thanks. 

 

Eric

 

[CO54]

Replacement arrived earlier this week, perfect match, just had to use correct size grease zerk fittings.